Datsun_SME

Hey guys and girls. I’m in the process of building the 2.4 L20b. L20b block bored to 89mm, z24 pistons, L20b rods. I have the z24 crank at the machine shop to get cut down for the clearance but now I’m wondering if I can just use the stock L20b crank with the above listed parts and just have bored 2.4 L20b (that way there is not so much side force on the rods) or will that mess up the piston deck height? Will it sit to low because the stock L20b crank has less of a stroke? Thanks guys. Or z22 crank no cutting down?

Hey Healey, The throw out bearing "mount" was the main part in question. When I got the new kit it was a little bit longer than the original. I put it all back together a couple off weeks ago and drove it around for two days recently without any problems. So yeah, not sure what the PO had installed( if it was right or wrong), but the new bearing mount is working...

really don't understand the whole closed chamber thing....good or bad? Yes it was. Machinist said it was warped. He didn't strip down head all the way. did pressure test and said the head was good? I did get the copper cote, put it together yesterday and drove around for awhile today no problems, didn't overheat, didn't smoke I asked the machinist and he said top of head was fine. no binding of cam. but it ran good today, need to weld exhaust together cause its cut right now and extremely loud.

I got the head resurfaced last Tuesday and got it back the same day! Only got charged $60. This weekend i'm going to install the head for the second time. hope no more coolant from the exhaust.

Alright I need some help! so I installed new radiator this weekend and ran my engine.....was running fine for a bit the I noticed a little white smoke from exhaust pipe. Then after a couple of more minutes it was a constant white smoke. so I smelled it and it smelled like coolant. Now my head gasket had previously blown that's why I tore engine out in first place. Gasket blew right between 2 and 3 cylinder. Anyway, I thought maybe I need to tighten down a little harder on head bolts, that worked for about 3 minutes when I ran again, then constant white smoke which smelled of coolant. I ended up taking head off again and noticed that in the same spot where head gasket blew(between 2 and 3 cylinder) there was already some noticeable "deterioration" and coolant present in the head along with the gasket. Now I never put any sort of cooper/ aluminum sealer on the head gasket. In my manual it say " from 73-80 do not use any kind of sealant" ( my engine is an L20B) So could this be problem? do I need copper sealer? Or is the head just warped? If getting the head shaved needs to be done should I get it ported? Better cam? I got a little side cash to spend so I would like to hear some ideas. Head is w58 Peanut

Sorry Rocket I was meaning to get back....... I think I will snag that window. I'm pretty sure its in better condition than mine. I really need to fix the rust on the floor board. Its pretty bad, no fab skills here so im probably going to get my pants pulled down to get it fixed.

When I bought my truck five years ago the PO had aftermarket oil pressure, temp, and voltammeter gauge. I wanted to keep stock temp gauge so I followed the wire leading from the dash cluster and found the old temp hook-up. Bought new temp sending unit and the truck was running hot. So after running for about 20-30 min I checked thermostat to make sure working properly and when I opened thermostat housing the thermostat was wide open( covered with gunk). When I ran it with-out thermostat never overheated. Hate to ASS-U-ME but figured my radiator was bad because it sat for so long. Well I bought radiator from champion and need to install when the weather gets above 20deg. To cold for me! Other than that , I did end up getting bench seat from junk yard and installed it. Ill need to get it re-upholstered but it works for now, (I think better than the shitty bucket seats previously in it). Ill post in-cab pics when weather warms up.

I just had same problem when I pulled my engine. I put everything back together and tried to fire it up and pop, gas shooting out the top of my 38 webber dgas. My problem was that the PO had put an l18 distributor on an l20b engine. So the firing order was different. I switched it to l18 firing order and rum rum! first turn it fired up. maybe that's the problem

Hey, im out here in cos. if you guys are ever trying to meet up again to have a beer maybe or something going on down at ppir let me know. I got a timing issue to work out on my 521 and then im ready to rock.

My first video. Hope it works. Me starting my 1970 521. Timing is off my a couple teeth. Does any one know, when I pull the oil pump off to change the rod thing that drives the distributor, is all of my brand new oil going to come out? If so, fuck my life! and my new clutch with odd throw-out bearing works!

I finally got ahold of the guy who owns a junkyard out here in CO this weekend, and found my donor truck. I think this 521 has seen better days.... Pic of inside with random junk And this is what I managed to salvage from the truck. There were a couple of other nice parts that I didn't really need, but wanted bad. The guy had two more 521's that were in pretty bad shape also. One still had the L16 intact (minus some parts) with a 210 head. Is this one of the heads that would give more power running on an l20b instead of the W58 peanut? I'm not even sure if you can swap a head from l16 to l20b. I also got my jet kit in for the 38 DGAS, put on yesterday along with new plugs/wires, hooked gas tank up/truck bed. After work I'm going to fire it up. ill post video(only if I get it started).

I had called this guy about it when the price was only $3500! Trip from cali must have been expensive, maybe shouldn't have stopped off in Vegas.

Ok, the Webber that it came off of was an inline 6 cyl jeep. Not the one with the engine when purchased. I originally had a 32/36 dgv but I put that on my CJ7. The obvious is to put the old 32/36 back on the Datsun.....But I want to try the 38 DGAS. I hear it gives more power.... if tuned right. I read all the previous threads and some say no problem with 38 and some say "to much carb"... we'll see when the jets arrive.Yes there is fuel into the carb. when I apply the throttle I do observe fuel entering the carb. and from exhaust there is black smoke coming out.

Well I got the engine in all by myself and it was a bitch! Anyway got everything hooked back up an it wouldn't start...... I saw a previous thread about 38 DAGS and called PIERCE MANIFOLDS to ask them about jets. I think this might be the problem why the L20B was not starting. I have spark, gas, air...........according to the manual my timing is right with an l20b, unless I have different distributor from diff engine? I don't want to pull engine again! I Put timing sprocket back on in the same exact position as when took off, it was TDC. Here's some pics anyways.. Took carb off to get ready for the new jets. Ill post jet info when they arrive.

Alright....Video of the timing chain nut/ lobe thing that runs fuel pump. does it matter where it is positioned? Had to post this! And this to. OK back to work... Here's pic with pretty much everything hooked up minus a couple hoses/wires. this is what I came up with to fix the broken breather thing fro the tranny, will it work? Got some new fuel line and clamps today, waiting on lower thermostat mount from e-bay and a couple minor things and should be ready to start it up!