Mannyvig

The Juke does not have the qr motor. There were early oil consumption issues with the 2.5, but everyone got recall notices for it and we would test and replace thousands of engines. If there are any left it is because the owner chose to never bring it to the dealer. The early 08 Altima came with an air filter that was flammable if it came in contact with a heat source, i.e. someone tossed a lot cigarette out the window and it traveled through the ram air setup and into the filter it would be bad. These were quickly remedied with a different filter and baffles in the ducting. Hardly any cars met their maker because of this. Yes those are big, shitty issues, but it has not deterred me from loving the shit out of my 2.5 cars.

The Juke is a solid car, so far very reliable. Getting a 13 or 14 would be best, as most of the little bugs have been worked out. I get how you're bummed about not being able to work on it, but having a car with a warranty is pretty sweet. I would get the juke and try to keep the truck. If you try to trade it, they probably won't give you close to enough to make it worth it.

No one is trying to discredit your diagnostic prowess. I just don't want a lesser diagnostician to read "a drive shaft out of balance will do it at a certain rpm in every gear", and believe that a junk u-joint will make the same vibration at "x" rpm in every gear. But what do I know.

Rpm doesn't affect a ds the way speed does. The speed a ds spins @ 3000 rpm in 2nd is completely different from its velocity @ 3000 rpm in 5th. The same idea of off balance wheels applies to the shaft. You may never notice a problem till that harmonic hits a certain speed, just as it may change if you keep going to an even higher speed. In short, engine rpm does not dictate driveshaft rpm.

Not true, don't rule the ds out.

Don't forget about the easily forgotten New Mexico

You will need to buy a dip stick and a new tube if you have to force it out. You will make the tube way worse when removing it.

You can tow one of my other z-cars out.

Count another for the NM group, because this guy is registered.

It is most likely leaking internally.

Well if it is kinked enough that the compressed air doesn't remove it, plan on replacing the tube and the dipstick. At least yanking the tube out is no big deal, just requires brute force.

The Dr is right, I really hype you haven't put pliers on anything yet. It helps if you spray a little line in the dipstick tube first.

Fun car show this weekend. And another of the Dirty30

Holy crap, I paid $75 for an l series valve cover, and it was already prepped and blasted. Never going back to my shop, beside the fact that it took three weeks.