eliandzekespapa

Sweet! so I don't actually need it. Thank you Matt-lock.

It came from the back right of the motor, had a vacuum line attached to the top and interacted somehow with the throttle by the hook-like aperture hanging from the bottom. I cannot find it anywhere in my Haynes manual. the bracket broke and I need to know what it is to be able to find its replacement part. Anyone have a clue?

once again datzenmike saves the day!!!! The BCDD wasn't allowing the truck's idle to fall. idle problem solved. thank you for the feedback and info.

Please excuse the delay in response...I spent the day yesterday in BFN riding dirtbikes with my to kids... datzenmike : I have eliminated the booster as the culprit... using your technique. I do still have the egr control valve and yes it is still connected to the exhaust I'm going to take it off in a few minutes and check its operation and clean it why? What might it do to cause this issue? What should I look for?

thank you ... I will do this tomorrow seems simple enough(brakes). Could anything electrical on the carb be causing a surge in idle? I hear a faint buzzing sound when I listen closely to the engine and the engine has, what seems like, a mind of its own when it comes to idling. It sounds like a sound little motor, no smoke, no ticking, no knocking...just won't idle RIGHT.

The truck is new to me by a few weeks so I'm still learning all of it's minor issues. Idling does get worse but not by much it actually falls lower in rpm when I step on the brake. I just got my haynes manual today so, that with you guys and my mechanic budy I should be able to figure it out...for now, I'm going to set the valve lash, disconnect all of the vacum lines and one by one reconnect them until something changes or all have been replaced and go from there. I have no front brakes and this could be just from a bad adjustment, air in the lines or a bad master, or a balloning soft line. I had planned on getting a simple tune going on the truck and moving on to the brake issue but as I read-- "vacum leak this and vacume leak that"-- in all that I read about the symptoms that I'm getting, I was just starting to think that my idle problems coud be related to the vacum on the booster.

My truck is doing some crazy stuff...I cannot get it to Idle right. It idles high but when sitting still and running (idling high) I can hold the brake and slowly let out the clutch so that there is a load on the drivetrain and not enough to kill the engine, and the truck will idle lower without going back higher but as soon as I step on the throttle it returns to high idle . With all of the info about other peoples brakes and boosters I've been reading I seem to have alot of the same issues with mine. Could my booster be the cause of a vacum leak that is making the motor idle high? I've replaced all of the other vacum lines. I had intended to fix the rough idle before moving on to the brakes, but whatever gets it goin' you're right datzenmike...I should have started my own conversation...

would a small vacum leak to the booster cause the motor to idle high?

Thank you, very much datzenmike. You helped confirm that what I was doing was correct. Now I think that I have a vacum leak and some other issue. I have a mechanic freind that is helping me with most of what I do to this truck and the basics are covered. The specifics of what direction to turn the screw to acheive which effect and which screw is what was much needed and very appreciated! Once again thank you. Until my book arrives... I'm gonna ask you! Oh and sorry about the caps...

PEOPLE......I HAVE A BOOK ON ITS WAY FOR ALL OTHER TECH ISSUES, I NEED HELP ON A STARTING POINT NOW. THE BOOK WILL BE HERE NEXT WEEK AND I NEED THE TRUCK NOW. THE ONLY ISSUE I CAN SEE WITH THIS TRUCK IS THAT THE CARB IS WAY OUT OF ADJUSTMENT. SO I NEED A STARTING POINT(THE CARB WAS SUPPOSEDLY REBUILT SO...A REBUILD SETTINGS FOR THE IDLE/AIR SCREW), A PROCESS FOR FINE TUNING THE IDLE /AIR SCREW AND SOME PICTURES OF THE IDLE/AIR SCREW. ALSO...TO SET THE IDLE AT A CERTAIN SPEED...DO I USE THE THROTTLE STOP SCREW OR WHAT?

Actually I really need step by step instruction with pictures... I need to tune my carb starting with the re-build adjustments. What are the rebuild adjustment settings? I have a little experience with adjusting the twin S/U carbs on a 64 volvo 122 but i'm lost with this one... mainly because I cant see clearly what I'm adjusting. Can anyone give me a picture of the fuel/air screw so I can at least verify I'm adjustng the right one!?!

nice.........truck..........man. When I grow up I want to drive a Datsun.

ahh just paint the blue,red!

Yeah its actually cut into the backside edge of the second pulley...I found it. Thankx for all the help, folks. But now I have new problems...all I've done so far is put a new air filter and plugs in and now it won't stay lit at idle speed. I checked the timing and as far as I can tell its 12 degrees before tdc( it's kid of a cramped spot to see). It also waivers at idle when it does stay lit. I don't have the tools on hand to check but it may be down on compression on #4...............BOOOOOOOO!

Good lookin' out. Thanx.