JSB

This topic needs to be updated or unpinned. The info on which Calipers are needed for Beebani's brackets is incorrect. For the correct info go to this post from Beebani http://community.ratsun.net/topic/25124-hardbody-disc-brake-brackets-for-620521520320/

not sure, it would run very roughly even with my foot on the gas. worth every penny to be done fighting with it. it arrived and I did the swap on Friday. Runs nice and smooth now.

After rebuilding the carb twice and it still wasn't working, either there was something fatally wrong with it (unlikely) or I just really suck at rebuilding carbs (probable). Either way, replacing it with a new weber 32/36 made all the difference. Thanks for your help, you prompted me to go back through everything which led me back to the carb.

I went back and retraced my steps and kept coming back to the carb. So I tore it down again and rebuilt it but no dice. I have no idea what I did wrong, but the problem is solved. I bought a new Weber carb and the engine ran beautiful as soon as I got it on there. So I guess that was the problem.

I played with these yesterday. The Idle speed screw is at 2.5 turns out. I have tried it from 1.5 to 3 turns out. 2.5 seems to be the best place for it. The mix screw was at 8 turns out before I messed with it. It's currently at 2, but I haven't seen a difference.

First, thanks for taking the time to help. Ok, at TDC dizzy rotor points right at #1. Rest of firing order is correct. Went through each cycle and all the valves have slight movement when the cam is not pushing them down. Tightened the nuts holding the carb to the manifold and checked the solenoid. It clicks normally when operating the key. No change, truck starts and stays running as long as I have my foot on the pedal.

I am at my wits end. I purchased a 73 620 several weeks ago. It appears to have been the recipient of an L18 from a later truck because the plate says it’s an L16 but the block is stamped L18 and I seem to have to ask for 74 parts to get the right thing. After fixing the fuel lines the truck would start but then die immediately. After rebuilding the carb, it runs (very rough) as long as you keep using the accelerator. Let off the pedal and it promptly dies. The points looked worn so I replaced them, adjusting to .020. The plugs/wires are new and firing correctly and strong. Timing is roughly on target. Compression is 150 +/-5 across the cylinders…which brings me back to the carb? Or vacuum? I followed a ratsun carb rebuild thread step by step and had no problems so I don’t think I messed that up. Vacuum, I have no idea. This may not even be the problem, but the hoses were not all there when I bought the truck and diagrams in “how to keep your Datsun alive” don’t seem to show everything so I’m a little lost. Even Google has failed me this time. I have made zero progress in the last week despite working on it nearly every day using the maintenance checks in how to keep your Datsun alive. At this point, if there is someone in the San Diego area who is willing to come by and help figure this out, I will buy the food and booze. I’ll even be the designated driver. This truck needs a lot of love, but I don’t want to start on the body or a disc brake conversion or whatever until I have it running. Please help!

Thanks for replying. I wasn't sure so I skipped the 4x4 and found a regular 86 HB at a different JY. I think I got all the required hardware. Will probably buy new calipers and use these as the core.

Saw at the top that the disks and calipers off a hardbody will work. Any one know if this includes the 4x4? At the jy right now and found an 86 4x Edit: never mind just reread the top. Got a set of calipers from an 86 hb. Still looking for troopers. May end up just buying the rotors new.

ok, long story, I'll try to be brief. Day 1 Got the lines hooked up, discovered that we still weren't getting any fuel. Tried to suction fuel right out of a can in the engine compartment. still no fuel. Ordered a new fuel pump. Day 2 Got in the fuel pump, it was the wrong one. Ordered another one. Spent some time fixing some wires and tightening bolts that were loose. Day 3 Replaced the fuel pump and fuel filter and tried again out of the can, bingo got fuel and a running truck (rough but running). Hooked the fuel line back up to the tank and no fuel. Unhooked the line directly at the tank, dry as a bone. Stuck the gas can under the tank and the truck runs. So I'm back to the tank which the PO said he just replaced. Drained (the gas looked clean btw) and removed the tank, used an air compressor (small low pressure) to try to free any debris that might be clogging the fuel pick up, but it appears to be blocked somewhere in there. Any ideas or should I be looking for a repair shop?

Thanks!

I believe he said it came from a 77 so that makes sense. Thanks! BTW, found and scanned some old pics of my first 620! I took these around 1986.

HI all, After selling my 74 620 (my first vehicle) in 1988, I have spent the last 25 years wanting another. Just bought a 73 over the weekend. The PO replaced the gas tank but didn't hook up the lines. Hoping for a little help getting the lines right. Included some pics because I know you guys will ask for them. I have all the missing stuff including the center portion of the core support that was cut out. The arrow is pointing at a line coming out of the right side of the tank. I'm guessing this is the main fuel line? This pic is via the right rear wheelwell. a couple hoses not hooked up. wondering if one of these hoses should be removed and the other should be hooked up to the connection on top of the tank.... ...or is this unused connection something I should be utilizing? Any help would be awesome.