rjdaaa

Yes I did bench bleed the master, ran the tubes into the 2 filled reservoirs and pumped all the way till I had fluid only moving. Also, I mity vaced each wheel and moved a lot of fluid-refilled reservoirs a lot. If the new booster doesn't cure the problem I will look at air in the master again, however usually air means mushy pedal, the pedal is rock hard once it moves 3/4 of it's travel. Still driving it and booster seems like it may not be boosting as much, as it used to. I will report back once I get the new booster on. Thanks for the replies.

I always checked for vacum leaks when I could not find the source, or wanted to make sure it was a vacum leak, by putting the palm of my hand over the carb throat (with the aircleaner bolt removed) while the engine idled roughly, and slowly moving it closer to the carb throat, at some point the idle will get higher if there is a vacum leak, as you are cutting off the air through the throat and the air from the leak is feeding into the engine, since with a vacum leak you are putting too much air into the engine and it is running lean and idling roughly.

Datzenmike; Yes it does not pass your test,pedal drops quite a bit even when I follow the procedure, so maybe when I get the booster and install should take care of it. Aibast: Rear brakes are actually adjusted tighter now than when the pedal did not move as much, but you are right, the shoes do settle in after a bit of driving. thanks for the replies. rjdaaa

I did a brake job on the 75 stock brake 620,new shoes, wheel cylinders and master cylinder. The master was leaking into the brake booster for a while, so I went through all but did not replace the booster.After I adjusted each brake on each wheel, and bled each wheel, I had a rock hard pedal, but the pedal travels about 3/4 to the floor before there is any resistance. Before I did the job the pedal did not travel more than 1/4 before it stopped. I don't think I have air in the lines as I used a mitty vac and ran a lot of fluid through. I adjusted each wheel so there was just a slight occasional contact with the drum and the wheel still turned. I have driven it aboit 100 miles like this and just ordered a booster, the old booster still works but maybe not as strong as before. I am guessing it is the 25 year old booster but maybe not?

Perfect.Thanks again. Just have to find one now.

Hello; I just joined the forum and have had a 1975 Datsun 620 for many years, I mostly used it with a 7 foot six pack camper but now I removed the camper and plan to drive more on the freeway. Thus, I need to know what years of other Datsun cars or trucks with 5 speeds will pretty much bolt right in with just a speedo gear change, same driveline, etc. I looked on the site and looks like certain years 280ZX might be the easiest fit? Thanks for any help here. Robert