Beer Snob

waiting for a buddy to come over to test spark at plugs. While Im waiting started checking odd ball stuff. My plug wires seem to have between 8 and 9 ohms resistance. When I pull good Denso wires of my 84 toyota (22r carb.) they measure at 1.25-1.8 ohms resistance. Is this alarming or should I forget about it? They are new but just cheap Schuck's parts.....🍻

Good eye bro, motor has oil, old pic after cleaning up. Going to check spark on all 4 plugs later as bad or incorrect plugs crossed my mind but there brand new, although we've all had bad brand new parts at sometime if you've played with cars long enough right!?!? And to confirm the proper rockers are loose, and the others are tight. Doesn't prove clearances are correct but....yeah. Last time it ran I could pull #1 and #4 wires off and it would drop off, #2,and #3 no difference in how the motor ran. If you look at the pics of the plugs it seems to confirm something....I'll let you guys know what I find later when I check for spark on the plugs themselves. 🍻

Just for clarity, my last check last night....

Cool, before I get a chance to check spark at the plugs hears one more thing. I'm making sure I've not made a stupid mistake....pictured is how I understand valve adj. Pictured is valves adjusted on compression stroke (red exhaust/blue intake), then rotate 360 degrees and do the other 4.

OK fair enough. I've only looked for spark at the end of the plug wire itself not all the way through the plug. I will do, give me a bit. In the mean time, so we agree on some principals...TDC compression stroke, #1 piston up, camshaft lobes at their highest point ( leaving both rocker arms loose, valves closed), rotor will point where it points as it can only go in 1 way since its not on a 20 tooth gear but an offset drive spline from the oil pump. So, if you call wherever the rotor points #1 and go 1,3,4,2 counter clockwise.....correct? TDC compression stroke. Hear is my set up in pics,

Everyone like pics so...you can see that 2&3 were not firing like 1&2. Correct plugs???

So at this point I now have a NO start condition. I did another compression test and got 150-153 across the board on all for cylinders. I did a valve adjustment prior ( a month ago or so). The compression numbers suggest that the valves are closing , yes? The thing is, its started and ran many times in the past and as recently as last week, (poorly but would idle and be capable of moving the truck in and out of the garage. Swapped in a carb off another project that 100% runs well, so not a fuel issue. Fuel pump is also pumping well. It REALLY feels like an ignition issue. Dizzy? Bad pickup coil in the dizzy? Here's something I was playing with, ( it was unintentional and may be pointless but....), when installing the dizzy I rotated the shaft to align it with the drive gear on the oil pump and forgot I had left the ign. on. I'm assuming when the reluctor passed by the pickup coil is why I got a big ol Blue spark and "pop" out of the coil ( it's unplugged from the cap obviously). Makes sense, right? Ign. on, so 12v flowing through the ign. system and you're basically simulating the engine turning the dizzy like its trying to start. If I keep rotating the dizzy shaft 360 degrees I can hear 4 "little" spark attempts, then sometimes only 1, sometimes 2, and sometimes random numbers of "little" sparks, and every now and then a Big Ol spark. My question is, if everything is functioning properly should I be getting 4 "Big sparks" out of the coil with every 360 degree turn, or is this a pointless trouble shooting endeavor? I put another identical style dizzy in ( unknown condition ) and did the same and got nothing. If anyone can make heads or tails out of what I'm sayin or has any ideas feel free to throw anything out there to check. I've never been stumped this bad on a no start issue, and I'm feeling really F&#king stupid and frustrated. Anyway thanks for reading, I'll keep fighting and let ya know WHEN I figure this shit out. 🍻

Hey guys, Got a 78 620 with the transistor style ignition box located in the pass. side kick panel. The "box" says only checkable by a tech, but I'll bet someone out there knows something about it. Any knowledge appreciated even if it's "throw it away and use matchbox". Ive got a start/no start issue that's driving me crazy. Ive had it running (poorly) and then it just wont start. "Feels" like spark or timing. I'll try not to run on but hears what it does...If it starts, runs like its not firing on all cylinders. If you pull off #1 wire...noticeable difference. Same with #4 same. No noticeable difference when pulling #2 or#3. But.. Hmm, If #2 and #3 were not firing, I'd think that pulling #1 ( or #4 ) would kill it. Not likely to run on 1 cylinder right?? Ive got "visible" spark but maybe weak, Im testng coils now. Obvious things Ive done...It has good plugs/wires, valve lash adjusted, compression check completed, firing order like 100 times, not 180 out. Even with a "splash" of fuel down the carb not even a "cough ". I feel like its something stupid but fuel, air, spark, compression, timing, Datsun RUN?!?! I'll keep plugging along just picking brains......Thanks all enjoy the weekend🍻

Never had more smiles and thumbs up than in my 320! Seems from all, men, women, and kids alike. Maybe not a magnet of any sort, well, maybe if you count smiles!🍻 Same with the 620

I've seen a few posts on overheating and can't agree more with Mike's advice. I've always been baffled that a $5.00 part is the gate keeper for your engines ability to run forever or 5 minutes! Mike suggested using an IR gun to look for temp in the cooling system components on a post somewhere, and it's a great tool. I use on every time I fire one of my Toyota rebuilds just as a second opinion to simple stock gauges. You can shoot engine block (works best on side opposite exhaust manifold), thermo housing, hoses, and even look for hot spots in the radiator itself. Stupid question and maybe you already covered this but have you ran it without a thermostat? I mean you're going to want one in the upcoming Idaho winter for your heater but cross the simple stuff off the list first, right? Keep up the good fight my friend🍻

So, my mechanical fuel pump just took a shit. I assume it's the diaphragm as it's leaking out the weep holes on the bottom. I have taken it apart and gave it the college try to save it, but it lasted a day. No big deal. I'd like to know what everyone thinks. Go new mechanical or new electric? The truck had a cheap Mr. Gasket electric pump from the PO, and it was o.k. He had it mounted on the fender well and it would occasionally lose suction (almost always at a stop light that just turned green😂) Causing me to have to jump out, rip off the supply line to the carb, reach in the window and turn the key, and then literally suck assist the pump to reprime! Sounds funny and it was like twice then it got old really quick. ANYWAY, I'm kinda a mechanical pump (if they came that way) but not a purest by any means (or at least on this project) kind of fellow. Sense the 320 has a solid fuel line it's a bit more intrusive to go with an electric. I don't mind spending the cash on a good NOS or factory pump if I can find the correct one for my J15. I thought J series motors were basically all the same from say J15, J13, J16 etc. but e-bays all over the place with "export only" and "J15 models from 74 to 80" kind of crap. I was led to believe that the J15 came out in 1969 and ran through 1980 and that's that. It shouldn't make any difference in what f%#king vehicle it came in, a J15 is a J15, yes?/No? This is actually an issue that I can take care of, but I value ALOT of the knowledge, opinions, and real-life experiences you all have so if you guys want to pitch in your $0.02, I'm all ears!🍻

Thanks again guys for all the patience and knowledge, it is always very much appreciated and valued! 🍻

Same problem on my project truck. Had a bad gasket seal on my sediment bowl. You won't have one on 620 but suction is damn near impossible with any leaks in the system. Once I sealed up my leak it picked up fuel lickety split.

So, in simple terms, the light, has power feed from battery on one side, alternator (once engine is running) on the other. A stalemate if you will of power supply to the light with no winner when all is good. Should the alt fail, the battery side wins, flowing power now illuminates the lamp. Would also be observed with the key on and the alternator not spinning as in initial startup. Am I at least closer?

The very small current from the light, (The "L" side of the plug), is in addition to the 12v. switched supply (The "S" side of the plug)? I thought I understood that the 12v. power supply (S") was the "exciter wire". Am I still all f*$ked up in the head!?!🍻