orangie

What are you trying to accomplish? Why not just strip it all the way down with paint remover? It's actually less work.

Why not just graft a front frame or sub frame from another car? The only problem is the truck is really narrow so finding something with a wheel width that narrow is tough. If you have deep enough pockets one of the drag race shops can fab one up where the coils mount to part of the frame.

I'm missing some of my primer.

I didn't think 620's went that far back.

I'd go with used OEM stuff. Usually good quality and a fraction of the price.

Look at the CFM rating. Not all fans are alike just because they are the same size. Here in the hot part of AZ, we need everything we can get.

Got the wiring sorted out. I had to redo a couple of the relay setups since the NIssan triggers relays by grounding them. Fuel pump now starts to prime when the key is switched to the "on" position. Time to put gas in the tank and see if she starts, but before I did that I wanted to check the fuel lines for leaks since I found a write up on the internet saying the brass compression rings are only for aluminum lines. I am running stainless lines, so I made a leak checker. It is simple and works quite well. Pressurize the lines to 100 psi and see how long it can hold pressure. Both send and return lines lost only 1 psi after a couple of minutes. FYI, those swivel end for AN lines all leak when you test the way I did. Gas at 50-60 psi would probably be okay.

Who needs brakes? They're overrated.

Ruthless_Datsun, Feel fee to PM me if you have any questions. This is my build thread. My ECU is not working, so I am waiting for a new one. http://community.ratsun.net/topic/52633-620-with-sr20det-power-steering-and-ac/page-2

I have one in my truck, but I took a very difficult route. If you don"t add AC, it fits a lot easier. I've never seen a right hand drive car with it done before. It might be easier that way with the exhaust away from the master cylinder. Motor mounts are custom and so is the transmission crossmember. If you go with the stock steering, the centerlink needs to be flipped to gain clearance under the oil pan. Clearances are tight in the back of engine to firewall. I added a box to move the firewall back half and inch.

That is very difficult to do without the right measuring tools. If you have enough adjustment in height and width you can compensate with tweaking. The width of the pivot points are dependent up the height of the rack placement. It's like an upside down trapezoid. If you mount the rack at the height of the lower control arms, the width needs to be approximately 16 inches The higher you go, the wider the pivot points need to be. I'll see if I can find a picture to post. I could never find any write up on how far forward or backward you could get away with on the rack placement.

It sounds about an inch to small. Pivot to pivot should be about 16 to 16.5 depending on how high you set the rack. I know the design theory, but I can't tell you what you can get away with before you start to experience bump steer or at least bump steer that's scary to drive.

I did it the other way. I had my hubs machined smaller. I reduced the diameter by about half an inch. FYI, I'm running the later 620/720 hub.

The 2005 Pathfinder is a VQ with a really short rear oil sump. It might be worth looking into. I was looking at my chevy LFX, but the oil pan is way to long (about 11 inches) for a rear sump.

It easier just to look at my build thread. You get bits and pieces of the steering here and there. http://community.ratsun.net/topic/52633-620-with-sr20det-with-ac/page-4