JWJohnson

That is the thing, I don't have anywhere that I can park it to part it out. I live in military housing and we aren't even allowed to work on vehicles, let alone store one to part out. I feel $850 is more than reasonable. I tell you what, I will throw in the hubcaps for free if you buy the truck :rofl:

I'm thinking about parting it out, but I couldn't make that much with it that way anyways... $850? Nobody wants this thing? Really? I'm open to trades for all kind of stuff, from guns, welders, vehicles, just let me know... Or pass it along. I need this thing gone!!

Yeah, sure are, I was thinking about removing them, but figured they had a better look too them, and were more aerodynamic. They net better mileage lulz.

Bump

$900. Someone want it?

EDIT: Price drop.

Up for sale is a 1980 720 Single cab long bed pick up. It has an L20B with a 5 speed. It has been driven and you can tell. Quick run down of the work that has been done since I have had it -Entire engine gasket replacement. -New windshield -New rotor, cap, plugs and wires -EGR delete -New head -New cam and towers -New valves -New head bolts I bought the truck in really rough shape and got bent over I feel. It still has a lot of little quirks to it. After I fixed everything on it. I was able to drive it to work for a couple weeks before I couldn't handle getting in and out of it. After all the work it runs good. There is a vacuum leak through either the EGR delete plate or somewhere on the carb its self. A Weber will solve it I'm sure. So it stumbles pretty bad when it gets hot. When it is cold it runs good, small miss, but I'm tired of working on it. I broke my back a couple years ago and this little guy is slammed. I think 2-3'' blocks in the back and torsion bars lowered as far as possible in the front. Getting in and out of it make it very painful to keep so I need to get rid of it. It was fun while it lasted. It would make a great project truck or be a perfect swap vehicle if you wanted something different? Or just need a motor? It is up to you. I have it listed on Craigslist: http://skagit.craigslist.org/cto/3734072664.html I'm asking $1,000 for it, BUT, all REASONABLE offers are accepted. I would be willing to trade for another vehicle of similar finish, I would throw some cash money on top for a small diesel car that isn't as low to the ground and runs good. No beaters or projects, I just need a commuter, also, no automatics, MUST be a manual. Give me a holler if you are interested or want a fun little pickup, or project, names Justin. Number's 970-210-8370 or you can email me at jwjohnson5.9@gmail.com Thanks. Peep this y'all.

I didn't figure as much... Maybe some real world testing could be in the future as far as compression and MPG number? If I had access to a dyno that would help too I suppose. I have read that going from #1-#2 has shown a 10psi compression increase, I wonder if that would carry up to the next level?

Yeah I have only seen it done a couple time on old Ford big blocks and a couple Hemi's from drag cars, it is something after seeing a few times I still have no confidence I would do it correctly either. I do know that it isn't neccessary to pull out a degree wheel and dial it in exactly unless you are looking for the best possible performance from the specific cam. Normally factory timing marks are just perfect for 90% of the applications out there. Have you ran #3 and noticed any difference? More seat-of-the-pants difference.

Yeah the cam is set up right. The truck runs good now, it was just my EGR delete plate I built, had a bad vacuum leak but I got that taken care of now and she runs like a top. I was just stating about the degreeing of a cam while using the crank pulley/Degree plate to figure how far advanced or retarded the cam was... Basically a poor mans degree wheel to get a rough estimate at where the cam was sitting in relation to TDC. Horizontal line length= 4* overall from left to right #2 hole in cam sprocket=4* advanced If the left most side of the v notch were inline with the right most side of the horizontal line, it would be safe to assume that the cam is 4* degree's advanced BTDC and one could corrilate that with the degree plate on the crank pulley. You have to take into account the 2:1 sprocket ratio between the crank and the cam though as well, so what ever number you get on the crank pulley, just divide that by two and that is where your cam is degreed to. If you set up the cam with the left side of the v notch to the farthest right side of the horizontal line, while the crank pulley is set to 0* TDC, then you move the crank in reverse by hand to square up the v notch and horizontal line on the thrust plate, then it would read somewhere close to 8* +- 1* advanced on the crank pulley. Thus your cam would be 4* advanced while the crank pulley was sitting at 0* TDC because of the 2:1 ratio.

So the #2 slot is advanced 4* correct? And you figure half the horizontal line is roughly 2* so a total of 6* technically? So my assumption about the crank pulley being used to figure about how far advanced or retard the cam is isn't too far off. If you tak into account the position I the v notch to the horizontal line. I said that the cam was 5*, with this 'guess' I was only off by 1*

I was basing the 5* off of the crank pulley with the v notch and hash mark lined up perfectly, not off to the side a little bit like in Mike's pic. If you look at the crank pulley timing marks with the v notch lined up on the horizontal hash mark like in the pic, the crank pulley reads right about 5* advanced. So theoretically it would have actually been 2.5* advance as the 2:1 sprocket ratio between the crank and cam. I used the #2 hole....

Yeah it looks exactly like that... On a side note... IT'S ALIVE MWUAHAHAHAHAHAHA runs pretty damn good if I say so myself. It was my EGR delete plate leak that was the problem the whole time. So I put some Permatex on it and tightened everything down a little more. I let it sit over night. Now me and the woman just got back from a nice smooth drive in it. Ran pretty good, but I still need to put a light on it and re-time the dizzy now that the leak isn't there anymore, I think it is a little off from timing it with the vacuum leak and then adjusting it after everything was hooked back up, give it a once over again and then call it a day.

Same cam as before. Degrees 5 advanced.

I thought about just threading everything and plugging it, I like the PCV idea though. I am running the valve cover PCV right now but am just letting the crank case EGR hook up chill. I checked and confirmed good everything that Mike was saying about the carb and cam timing. Everything is good except vacuum. I started it tonight and it ran much better. I did t drive it anywhere but the idle was much better. So we will see.