WallRocket

Liked the wheels silver, but truck itself is looking great!

Your Datsun probably hauls more stuff then that diesel

My daily driver has bit the bullet and i am tired of having bad ass projects and shit daily drivers. I am most likely selling this truck and buying a newer car to daily drive. Don't worry guys, i will pick up another Datsun 620 and keep it going on the thread. I love Datsun 620 to much not to own one. Time to save up for another SR20 haha. Honestly it is a very easy swap.

I didn't modify the truck to fit the engine. All i modified was the engine mounting on the frame rail, and the sr20 oem mounts as shown. I even left the OEM holes for the L series to go back in if needed. Oh, maybe we count the cutting of the steering column and bumper support brackets? No cutting of the actual truck what so ever. Notice it has a down tilt toward the back of the engine? That is to prevent cutting the truck. IDEALLY you might WANT to cut the floor, but i am to much of a purist to do so. Its not that bad of a angle on the driveshaft (mine is actually pretty dang straight.) I havent had a issue at all in that subject. Only issue i have is the reverse hitting the seat/shift boot. I have to hold it down in reverse. Also, my engine is slightly shimmed up on the turbo side to clear that large s15 turbo. Nothing major or effects anything really. Just some notes since your wanting to run a slightly bigger turbo yourself.

Shit this was last year. Oooppss

This makes me want to throw away my welder and re-do my whole swap. Good work man. It's like fabrication porn.

After a month and a half wait...my gauge holders came in! No more electric tape holding them in! Doing my last engine rebuild swap over at my shop. RIP SHOP. Datsun 620 sr20 hauling a rebuilt/forged sr20det! I picked up a front and rear subframe for the truck... Happy days!

Enjoying driving it for a bit, then it comes all back apart for paint and body!

Putting it to work like a truck should be used. Throwing out a bunch of junk from my house to move out of my shop. Unfortunately i have to close down. Heater core! I seen a write up on here for using a spectra premium 94741 heater core. Not much to it, just cut a little piece of plastic off. boom fit right in! Now i have a heater! Here is the link, i don't take the credit for this sweet find. http://community.ratsun.net/topic/70495-heater-core-replacement-spectra-premium-alternative-to-discontinued-product/

WOW SICK INTAKE. The first one i was like, "eh" the second time around...nailed it. That is a fast build so far! Keep up the good solid work.

I been daily driving it for the past week now. Has a few small issues that need attention, some, i don't know if they are fixable ha. Shifter is actually not level, so it makes my reverse pop out, plus the seat is sorta in the way as well. I need to shim up the right side of my garage mounts to level out the engine/trans to help with this issue. Then...MORE coolant leaks i see... Only leaks after setting all night. I seen a post on here for some tapper inserts to flip the center link, and i felt that was a "more right" way then what i did by tapper drilling it out.

Sick headlights! Great work so far!

Welp. Tired now, I will updated and edit it later.

I have had a few people been asking about my wiring. Its just the way I did it, i am not liable if it doesn't work out for you. This is for the gauges. Simply tap what you want and run it to desired gauge. (My truck, i didn't use any of these wires.) These wires are located by the ECU, and are usually white or brown plug. The way I wired my truck, i didn't use any of these wires, just thought they would be helpful to some. Here is what you will be looking for, for above wire colors. Usually a white or brown flat plug. S13 Nissan 240sx guys use the term, "Dash interface plug" IGNORE THE WIRE COLORS IN PICTURES. Brown is a DOHC chassis dash interface White is a SOHC chassis dash interface First Step 1. Now, you have a 3 pin O2 sensor plug, it needs to be extended about 4 inches on either side (you choose) This plug will have a BROWN/Yellow, BROWN, and WHITE wire. Here is what the O2 sensor wire looks like. Second Step 2. You will need to extend the MAF wire. This will have a shield loom signal wires (2) dont be scared of that. Find a nissan 240sx OEM harness and cut the MAF wires from it (or any 2 wire shielded MAF wire from any car really) There will be 3 wires, Black, white, and black white stripe, just extend them 3ft, yes, 3ft. So the maf wire can run across the fire wall and around to the driver front of the truck. SR WIRE COLOR FUNCTION Black / White +12V (Power) Black MAF Ground White MAF Signal I used a Z32 maf sensor. FOR Z32 MAF USERS, THE PINOUT IS: (ECU retune is required) Third Step 3. Cut and put power where it needs to go into the OEM sr harness. No need to cut open the harness, etc etc. Just cut the power interface pigtail off. Here is what the power interface plug looks like. (See Figure 1a. below) Now that you have cut the pigtail off, you will see a few wires you need to run the sr20det in your truck, Thick blue/red stripe, Thick Black/Red stripe, Red, brown, black/yellow stripe, Black/White stripe, red/black stripe See figure 1b. You don't need any other colors! You will need to wire in 2 or 3 Relays in the location of the passenger side/center cab of truck.. I can't explain how to wire in a relay, but i am sure you can figure it out. Figure 1a. Figure 1b. SR Wire Color ECU Relay --- Red / Black stripe 12v Switch Power --- Wire to Relay 1 12v Switched ECU Power ---Black / White stripe 12v Switched Power ---Wire to Relay 1 12v Switched ECU backup power --- Red 12v Switched Power Relay 1 12v switched Main ignition power Black / Red Blue / Red Connect Wires together. 12v switched/Relay 2 12v Switched Brown Any +12V Switched O2 sensor power Black / Yellow stripe Any +12V Switched Idle air control solenoid power Black / Pink stripe Not Used. Fuel pump relay Green / Orange stripe Not Used. Transmission neutral switch Green / Yellow stripe Not Used. AC relay Blue / Green stripe Not Used. AC relay Here is the "Relay panel i fabricated up" You can do it how ever you wish, just make sure they are FUSED, and have power supply off a relay. ROUTING IN THE ENGINE BAY (Update later with pictures of the routing i choose) Requires cutting hole bigger and some sort of rubber grommets to prevent the sheet metal from rubbing threw the harness on fire wall. Runs as it would in the Nissan 240sx, ecu mounts to the kick panel of truck, and the power interface wires run any where into cab you wish, i ran mine to the center console. Gauges! Water Temp Tap and drill OEM water neck for sending unit. Then run wire to your gauge of your choice. Tachometer You will find that the oem dash interface wire WILL not output a aftermarket gauge signal wire. (It did this for me anyways) You will need to TAP PIN number 30 I haven't got to the Speedometer as of right now. NOW! YOU HAVE A UPPER HARNESS THAT WILL RUN THE SR20DET! *****I will brush up on the LOWER harness later on.****** Its pretty Simple. Remove thick starter wire, and loom back up. Plug in the OEM sr20 lower harness into the trucks OEM harness. 1. Starter wire, just plug trucks starter wire into sr pigtail sr lower harness, no need to cut open lower harness, just tap what you want off the sr pigtails. 2. Alternator, Thick (+) Terminal to starter (+) Terminal. Then just 12v switch the white with red stripe wire.

Battery box installed I got some cheap hood pins until i get some areolatch style hood pins. It actually made it about 1 mile drive to my work =) I made a video, but i will see how well it came out before i post it.