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NissanEgg

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About NissanEgg

  • Birthday 01/27/1982

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Auburn, AL
  • Cars
    85 720, 86 300ZXT, 94 Sentra
  • Occupation
    Nissan Senior Tech

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  1. Dual plugs. Haven't tried going any higher as I am afraid it might ping.
  2. Well, what would you recommend on a Z20S with Z24 dizzy, a Weber 32/36DGEV, 4-1 header and full 2" mandrel bent exhaust, and Nissan Motorsports camshaft? I run it at 7* and it seems fine. If I set it to 5* or less it suffers alot in the midrange and up top.
  3. Are you sure it's not the fuel pump control module under the right side of the dash buzzing? If it goes out, you can always bypass the module with a homemade jumper harness to make the pump work again.
  4. Also check the electrical portion of the ignition switch. It can fail or have corroded contacts which can cause intermittent issues. I had a similar issue with the starter and mine was cured with a new switch from Nissan.
  5. The stock rubber bushings even when new are so soft that they deflect alot under braking and big bumps, which causes a good amount of caster and camber change, which consequently affects toe. When you take the deflection out, or minimize it, you also minimize the caster, camber, and toe change under braking and bumps. This makes the steering feel more precise with no negative side effects.
  6. Question is does that fit in the 720 channel?
  7. The front lower felt pieces are NLA ( no longer available) from Nissan. The one that runs around the rest of the window are still available. I just bought some for mine several month ago. If you have connections from Nissan you can get them for a lot cheaper than full retail. Just need to figure out something for the lower front parts to stop mine from rattling.
  8. ^False info here. "Bench Racing" at its finest here. These are not a "race" item. The poly is not a waste of time or money. Poly is actually cheaper than the rubber parts for the 720, and lasts longer than the vehicle will. That alone saves time and hassle of having to redo the rubber later. When lubed right and installed right, there is no noise and little-to-no bind. Replaced them all in my 85 720 a few months ago. Truck came back to life in the suspension department with no more squeaks(mainly from the rear leafs). The front end alignment came back into specs after doing the bushings in the control arms and tension rods. Truck does NOT ride any harsher than the busted old bushings. Steering feel is greatly improved.
  9. Truck is a Z24S standard model, regular cab short bed with bench seat and rubber floor mat and no center console. I have the original window for this truck as well and it says Z24S with 3.70 rear end. The US built trucks do not have the chassis tag you speak of, only the Japanese built trucks with VIN starting with JN6. Mine starts with 1N6. 1985 MPG model was only offered in regular cab long bed and has a knock sensor on the block. This according to the FSM and Nissan FAST software. I currently run 10W40 with genuine Nissan oil filter. EGR doesn't reduce chance of pinging, it's sole purpose is to lower NOx emissions. I had to remove it as the BPT and valve were screwed beyond repair and was leaking at idle causing massive stumbling and stalling. Removing that made the engine run better. I haven't heard any pinging yet and run 91 octane. I am well aware of what pinging is as I have a 86 300ZX Turbo completely built that pings from time to time under long boost pulls in 4th/5th gear. I still may back off the timing alittle. Also verified the vacuum advance works properly with and without vacuum applied to actuator. Also this noise has been there since I got the truck when it still had the out of whack Hitachi carb and broken exhaust manifold. Also when I got this truck the timing was set at -1* of timing and was a slug.
  10. I have a base model 85 720 truck that is supposed to have the Z24S. A few weeks ago I replaced the cracked cast iron exhaust manifold with a Pacesetter header. While doing that job I cleaned off that side of the engine and realized the engine has been swapped out for a Z20. Current engine mods are new Weber 32/36DGEV, new Pacesetter header, full EGR delete, ignition timing set at 8* btdc, full tune-up using Nissan spark plugs/both fuel filters/cap and rotor/NGK wires and valves adjusted as per the FSM. Carb is adjusted as per Weber instructions and idles at 750 rpm. I have a nasty stumble if you slam the throttle open when the secondary opens, but clears right up and pulls hard to redline. Now if you gently roll into the throttle it does not stumble when the secondary opens and still pulls hard. I think my carb is over-jetted for the Z20? I bought it new thinking I had a Z24S engine. Is the carb jetted wrong for the Z20S? I bought it new from Redline Weber. Also recently at hot idle I have a light random noise coming from some where in the lower part of the engine. But I cannot determine if it is chain or crank/rod/piston related noise. Raising the rpms above 900 will make the noise go away. Recently at idle the engine has developed a roughness, and seems to get worse with mileage. Again, raising it above 900 and the roughness goes away. No vacuum leaks found. No oil/coolant loss or smoke, and mpgs are still pretty good (about mid 20s). My concern is that the engine is in need of a rebuild in the near future. I have been reading that there are differences between the Z20E and Z20S, mainly piston/rod combo and heads. Without tearing the engine apart, how do I determine if someone swapped in a Z20E or Z20S? Will the casting numbers on the head/block tell if it is a efi or carbed engine? I would like to know so I can figure out what I have and what compression ratio I have. I would prefer the higher CR for power. I need to know so I can plan ahead for a complete rebuild. I also plan on throwing in a reground cam from Comp or others in the future too. Also plan on installing a wideband o2 sensor to keep things in check. Any help will be greatly appreciated. Also I am a certified senior Nissan tech and have covered all the basics with this truck. Or scrap all this and install a fresh rebuilt Z24S like it is supposed to have?
  11. I just did the speedo the other day in my 85 720 base model short cab/bed with the stock 3.70 gears. Had the needle touching the trip reset button and tach was showing about 4600ish rpms in 5th, about 110-113mph on I-85. New Weber 32/36, complete tune-up (timing, fuel filters, cap, rotor, plugs, wires, valve lash, oil and filter, trans and diff oils), Pacesetter 4-1 header with crappy fart can exhaust from the p.o. that terminates before the axle. The speedo died about an hour later, the teeth on the speedo pinion gear shredded off. :no: I think I had the speedo pegged on the trip reset button too long, about 3 minutes. Only backed off as the water temp slowly started creeping up a little above the middle. My old 91 SE-R, 141 mph on I-10 in Florida following an RSX Type S. My old 93 NX2000, 136 mph, bone stock, down hill. My old 92 Eclipse GS-X, 155 mph hitting rev limit in 5th, roll racing a turboed '00 Camaro SS. My old 91 Isuzu Impulse RS Turbo AWD, 132mph, hitting rev limiter in 5th gear on I-20 outside of Birmingham. Stupid short 4.31 final drive gearing, close ratio 5-speed, and rev limit is 7300 rpm. My daily 94 Sentra LE 5-speed with the GA16DE, 118 mph hitting the factory speed limiter. My 86 300ZX Turbo, with the factory 3.54 gears and '87 spec turbo trans (higher 5th ratio), hitting 125 mph and only about 3900 rpms. Fuel cut is 6700 rpm. Anything above 125 mph and the hood starts to flutter badly. The numbers add up around 187 mph at V-MAX with my gear combos, I don't have the balls to try.
  12. Did any of the 720s with the shorter length 5-speed come with a shifter console? I just bought a console with gauges for my 85 base model with bench seat, and it the shifter is way too far forward to fit in the console opening. Is there such a thing as a console for the short transmissions or do I need to convert to the longer transmission/driveshaft setup? If there is a shorter console, anyone have pics of it?
  13. I would love to post a proper build thread of my Z here, but with over 800 pics, I don't want to overload the server here. So instead, you can see my full thread here 1986 300ZX Turbo resto-mod build At Road Atlanta last year.
  14. Hey, Micuss, where in Dothan do you live? I lived there for 24 years, now I live in Auburn. I have family in Dothan/Headland and I come down to visit often. I want to check these cars out.
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