DatsunHealey

Hope this is not a dead thread yet... Not sure what you figured out, but I just ordered a clutch kit from Rock Auto for my L20B (with a non dogleg 5 speed) and they shipped the right part number box with the wrong kit in it! Because my set up is a Previous Owner Cluster Fumble, I often order parts only to find that they don't fit because somthing has been altered or customized. When I took my clutch kit out and compared it to what was on my L20B, the new stuff seemed puny and I instanlty assumed that my car had a larger than normal PP, 225 or 240mm. After proper inspection, it turns out I DO have the expected 7 7/8" clutch. What was in the box was 7 1/16" plate to fit a 3/4" 18 spline shaft... Long story short, don't assume you've been sent the right parts. Rock Auto is usually great to deal with and they paid all shipping charges to make it right. I'm waiting for the right clutch to arrive. They said they would double check it and look inside the box before they ship it this time.

Thanks Datzenmike It is marked 71L on the passenger side. I referred to this thread: http://community.ratsun.net/topic/48964-can-anyone-help-me-id-an-l20b-block5-speed-trans/ and it appears to be a FS5W71B 5 speed, non dogleg, 5 bolts on the coverplate and marked 71L. Can I assume it is a FS5W71B? It would not suprise me if it was not the original transmission since the spacer plate does not properly fit.

Can anyone let me know where I can get a clutch fork boot for a 71L 5speed transmission. I have seen a boot on ebay but the ad indicates it will fit only the following: "Correct Nissan replacement for all 1972-78 240, 260, and 280Z's, 1979-83 non-turbo 280ZX's (does not fit 280ZX Turbo's), all 1975-79 620 pickups, and all 1980-85 720 pickups." My 71L is of course not in a Datsun but came connected to an L20B which I believe came from a 1975 or 1976 610 or 710. Any chance the ebay boot will fit? I don't assume that an ebay seller will know ALL of the applications for a particular part. I do assume someone on Ratsun WILL know... Thanks!

Knowing that they start out with the same casting # and are machined differently, makes all the difference. With thanks!

No nubs at all on either cam... they would have been helpful for breaking loose the cam bolt. I am installing the 210 head and have been advised to install the U67 cam. If the same casting number means they are the same cam, then i need not bother... it is possible the U67 head has had a lesser cam installed at some point.

Its not from from a Datsun 210. I have two heads, a 210 casting from an L16 and a U67 casting from an L20B. Both cams are stamped 'Japan 210'.

Is this an id number or does it indicate that the cam came out of a 210 head? I have a u67 head and a 210 head and both cams say 'Japan 210'.

In case you need more logging equipment, here is an L20B powered buzz saw. WTF? http://toronto.kijiji.ca/c-buy-and-sell-art-collectibles-BH219-Vtg-Hit-Miss-Buzz-Saw-Nissan-1975-80-Datsun-Truck-L20-B-W0QQAdIdZ439628509

Sorry, but the avatar picture is all I have at this point. Its the Kijiji listing picture and shows it in its barn-find condition. It had not run in 6 years.

Shipping anything 5000 kilimeters is going to blow the budget. Add in customs clearance, Federal and Provincial tax and fuel surcharges. (In Canada fuel price is low right now, only about $5 per gallon. It had been about 5.40 before Christmas. With all that, the 210 on my workbench starts looking pretty good to me. I'll put it on and keep an eye out for a U67 head locally, if I find it under-powered. I'm trying to avoid the finacial tipping point where it becomes worthwhile reinstalling an original dual carb Austin engine. I'm looking forward to getting it on the road with some Datsun power under the hood. I'll post an update when I know more.

I had not thought of the port sizes so it definitly means I'll go with the 210 intake. The 210 head means I will have coolant flow into the intake, so i will need to reconnect the return. I know there is a performance hit to using the 210 head but in central Canada there are few spare parts floating around and shipping costs are murder. I tried to source a rebuilt u67 on the web. No luck. I spoke with rebuilders in NC. and TX... no cores available. The summers are short here, so the goal is to get it running and enjoy a couple of hundred miles with the top down this summer. Here are a couple of threads on the topic: http://community.ratsun.net/topic/45244-l16-head-on-l20/ http://community.ratsun.net/topic/3633-l16-head-on-l20b/

Thanks everyone. I am going to go with studs and give it a try. I have a choice of intakes; 210 no smog or U67 egr etc. No choice on the exhaust since the U67 is custom to fit in the Healey. Anyone have input on using the no smog 210 intake with the l20b.? The carb is a rebuilt DCH340 and I would put that back on. The smog U67 has a bunch of hoses and wires, half of which are disconected or plugged anyway. No idea if the EGR valves works.

An Introduction: I have a 1965 Austin Healey Sprite powered by an L20B with a 5 speed and a 610 or 710 rear end, all installed by a previous owner. The original engine would have been a 1.1 litre engine with a 4 speed, so this should be a red rocket when it is running again. I am located 20 miles due south of the U.S border at Detroit... in Canada! Go figure. This is my first post although I have been reading this site since June. The u67 head is badly warped... (30 thou) but i have managed to buy an L16 with a 210 head which is dead flat. Thanks to this forum I knew the 210 would work on the L20b with compression of 9.2 to 1. I'm not a tuner or a racer so it should work ok. My Question: Both heads had differing combinations of bolts and studs holding on the manifolds. The 210 had 4 different sizes of nuts and bolt heads ranging from 10mm to 15mm! I've seen kits of all studs (11) for replacement. I must replace all of the stud/bolts with new because they are in poor shape. Any reason not to use all studs? I'll be installing the manifolds on the bench before reinstalling the head.