Avallanche

Yes, the car has been sold. There's plenty of tread left on the tires, but they're old so the rubber isn't quite what it should be you know? Not sure where they came from because they were on the wheels when I bought them. Separating the tires from the wheels is going to cost me money. I'll do it and ship them if it's worth it to me. What's your area code, Rubberman?

I have a set of American Racing Libres for sale. They are the 7" wide version. I'm asking $400 for them. They are located near Vancouver, WA. Send me a email at avallanche247@Hotmail.com or text 360-607-6207.

I have my 510 for sale on Craigslist. 1972 two door for $1950. Last time I drove it was to the Datsun show at Blue Lake Park in 2008. Getting into 4x4ing now and have lost interest in the 510 =/ Here's the link... http://portland.craigslist.org/clk/cto/2026052674.html

Thanks Datzenmike for the info. I forgot to ask about the wiring on the steering column, but from what you mentioned about the dash I'm assuming it's also different. I haven't even gotten the chance to really check out the pickup. I offered to help my friend get it going for the summer time. Hopefully I don't have to get on here much and bug you guys with questions hehe. I used to have a 521, but am more of a 510 guy myself. The newer style pickups like the 720 are still foreign to me. I'm looking forward to learning about them, though! -Seth

My friend, Nate, just acquired a 1982 720 KC. It needs a new front windshield, driver side door window, seats, dash, among other things. He found a 1983 standard cab 720 he can buy parts off of. I am wondering if most parts are interchangeable between the two pickups with the exception to things that are obviously different? Any help with this question is much appreciated. -Seth

I'm just gonna link my ad on craigslist cuz I'm lazy... http://portland.craigslist.org/clk/pts/817697601.html I have all my Nissan stuff listed for $800. I'll sell things separately, though. Anyways, I'm willing to cut a deal for ratsun members. I actually have like 3 ECUs (I think one is for an auto) and 2 wiring harnesses (one is all retardified, though). It's been 4 years since I touched that stuff so please forgive me for the vague description on the parts. Too many things went wrong with the KA swap so I went back to the L20B. I don't check ratsun much so it'd be best to email me at avallanche247@hotmail.com or call my cell 360-607-6207 if you have questions. Thanks, Seth

Well I talked to my dad's friend, who is very good with wiring, and he's gonna look at the car on Saturday. Thanks to all of you who gave me some suggestions on what to try / check on. I'll mention them as we're looking over the wiring this weekend.

The battery is brand new and I just pulled it off the charger when I started having a problem getting power to the starter.

Yes, the voltage regulator is brand new now. I've also tried 3 different starters and 2 click, one doesn't (probably because it's bad). I looked at it today and something else is going wrong. The cable going from the positive terminal straight to the starter has zero power at the starter end. I poked the cable with a test light near where it goes through the bottom of the trunk and it has power back there. What I don't understand is I was getting power to the starter last time I messed with the car and now I'm not. Someone mentioned that they needed a relay when they moved their battery to the trunk. Think a relay would help me in this case?

The cylinders are fine because I turned the crank pully a few times. Also the starters were tested without being mounted to the transmission. They were just wired up and I only get a click. I'm sure its an issue with the wiring somewhere. I mounted the battery in the trunk since it was parked. Maybe that has something to do with it. I was pretty busy this weekend. Might get a chance to look at it sometime soon.

Like others have suggested a KA24DE is your best bet for the 510. It'll give you the upgrade in power you're looking for without affecting the handling of the car. If the 2.4 liter DOHC isn't enough to satisfy you then throw a turbo on it. Then you won't be worrying about beating your friend's neon. You'll be worrying about getting traction lol!

I thought the starter was bad too. So I pulled it and put another old spare in. That one didn't even click. So I removed it and wired up a starter out of a 1999 Frontier and it just clicked like the first starter. After that I figured it has something to do with the wiring. I know there aren't many wires that hook up to a starter so it's hard to screw up. That's what's bugging me!

To those who don't know the story... Well, the 510 was my high school car. Never anything fancy. After the transmission started acting up in January of 2005 I attempted a KA24DE swap. Long story short I gave up on it and moved the 510 outside. It sat next to the shop for 3.5 years til I recently decided to revive it. I put the L20B back in it without rebuilding the transmission. It's not my daily driver anymore and I'm trying to keep this "project" as cheap as possible. So I figured the transmission is fine lol. What it looks like right now. the engine bay a few days ago. the rusty voltage regulator has been replaced with a new one and there is a radiator installed now. a shot of the interior. not too pretty is it? It's all back together to the best of my knowledge and the sucker won't fire up. The starter solenoid clicks, but no cranking. I'm assuming the problem is something really simple that I'm overlooking. I haven't had anyone else check it out yet to find anything I missed, but figured I'd post the project on ratsun for you all to enjoy. I just want the darn thing on the road for the Blue Lake Datsun show. I don't think that's too difficult to accomplish. Whether I have to pay a mechanic to get it running or what not it's gonna be there! =)

Well there's a video of how the pickup fires up and another on how the aftermarket heater works. Then a few pics of the interior and two of the four studded tires (the other two are on the pickup). I also forgot the water temp gauge doesn't work. It's never overheated on me before even in 5 o'clock traffic on a 90+ degree day. So I never bothered to fix it.

Let me try and describe this pickup a bit... I'm the 4th owner of the pickup. I bought it from a friend of mine who bought it from a friend who got it from his grandparents who bought it brand new (is that confusing at all? lol). It was my daily driver for almost 2 years. Just about everything is original down to the hubcaps. There are 99651 miles on it currently and I believe that the odometer has never rolled over. It has the L16 with the original Hitachi carb and 4 speed manual tranny. I rebuilt the distributor about 3500 miles ago. The stereo has been removed. The e-brake cable snapped so that obviously doesn't work. It comes with a set of 4 studded tires with hardly any miles on them mounted on original wheels. The front window is the only one with a crack, but its down where the wipers sit so you don't notice it. The door windows roll up and down fine. The wing windows work fine. The locks work fine. Doors open and close fine. High/low beams, brake lights, turn signals, hazards, front/rear marker lights, heater fan, dome light, gauge lights, cigarette lighter, switches work fine. The reverse lights don't work. It leaks water under the dash through the air vent I think. There's no carpet on the floor. I've never messed with the torsion bars up front, but put 3" blocks in the rear to level the stance out a bit. The brakes will stop you, but could use some tweaking to work better. The plastic handle part of the hood popper is missing. So you gotta either use plyers or just pull it with your fingers if you got a strong grip. I installed an aftermarket heater core with 3 speed fan wired into the factory fan switch. It works great, but I never finished plumbing up the defrost hoses so you still gotta keep a rag handy to wipe the fog off the front window when the weather sucks. The bench seat is torn up pretty bad where the driver sits. The engine fires right up. It'll smoke if you take it into the higher RPMs before shifting, but you can only see that at night with headlights behind you. The shifter is a little sloppy, but it doesn't grind. Gosh I'm just gonna stop there because this is getting long ;) So basically your typical old Datsun. My email is avallache247@hotmail.com and my cell number is 360-607-6207. The pickup is located in Battle Ground, WA. If you have any questions or want to see a picture of something specific feel free to contact me. http://s14.photobucket.com/albums/a339/avallanche/?action=view&current=fireup.flv http://s14.photobucket.com/albums/a339/avallanche/?action=view&current=heaterfan.flv http://s14.photobucket.com/albums/a339/avallanche/?action=view&current=interiordriverside.jpg http://s14.photobucket.com/albums/a339/avallanche/?action=view&current=interiorpassengerside.jpg http://s14.photobucket.com/albums/a339/avallanche/?action=view&current=headliner.jpg http://s14.photobucket.com/albums/a339/avallanche/?action=view&current=studdedtires.jpg