jaredrawk

well one of them is a Bat Santa. No telling what he will bring.

Happy Holidays all you Datsun Head Cases!

Read on auto news blog that Peter Brock was there in the viewing gallery for the unveiling of this concept and at the reception.

3D Printed Body Panels. I read somewhere round the MotorSport blog that yes we are seeing exposed hard attach body points and that part of the NISMO concept is to allow one to easily design and 3D print new body panels. Just the engineering to support that would make this a very fun car to customize. Just tossing that out for more discussion. -- l8s -- jrawk

I have this to say: I am ok not calling it a 510 homage, but it has a lot of subtle cues and they are done right, right, right. I really like the size and scale as indicated in the video with the designer man standing there next to it. It looks like an awesome fun, short, wide, simple rear wheel car and the best looking concept I have seen this year! BTW I am mostly aiming my opinions at the tan consumer car. Of course by the time I finish my 510 wagon I will have no money left for one should it ever go to production anyhow. But if it does I will happily pull up to a light next to one and smile at the fact that finally a car company has proposed making something where the mission seems to be young modern fun and not the overwhelming mediocrity of a Christmas sweater designed by a committee of baby boomers. --lates --jrawk

When it comes to creating strut towers, anyone want to share opinions on this basic design? Thoughts being yes you see the towers, but hopefully nothing bisecting the space. Also cut into the deck, put in a cross member of some type so the top is level with the deck. Weld it all up, put down carpet so it disappears.

The feedback, links and searches you have all provided have clarified, inspired and solidified some things. This is now leaning to a strut type IRS. So more similiar to the 280zx than the springs and shocks of the 510 or changing a 510 to coil over. This I believe will give the best combination of stance, adjustability, handling and performance, with the kind of cabin instrusions I am willing to accept. Now the current discussion is starting to turn towards the decision of whether to start by finding and rehabbing a 280zx donor end, or work with a specialist to fabricate a rear end to use.

Keep it comming this is all excellent, excellent stuff!

OK, I have seen 3 examples here and elsewhere, two seemingly very custom one with the rear clip from a donor 510. So other than the tons of fabrication, locating an R200, the axles, the punching up to make towers for coil overs, maybe changing the gas tank, probably having to do some sort of disc brake conversion and fitting it all in without losing the back seat or massively spoiling the rear interior, not to mention probably spending more than I should ever... Besides all that does anyone spy a problem or gotcha with using this datsport crossmember to undertake the dream of ine more rear IRS goon? Or does anyone have advice? I do have the help of a good shop. But very few have seem to have taken this on for probably good reason and I know this community to have tons of opinion and knowledge. http://www.datsport.com/Adjustable_rear_cross_member.html The 280 conversion has happened for the front suspension. R200 cause it does have a SR Swap so future proofing against tuning up HP.

I hope you were not scammed. Call your credit card company and discuss Backcharge. That should get everyones attention. Also it is an internet tradition to immediately follow a post like this with, "well you should've done this" That is not my spirit here, though of course the internet doesn't care about spirit. Also this is not an ad but a reccomendation based on personal experience for anyone who finds this thread in the future. Also I need to get to 25 posts because I have some OEM lug nuts to post in the classifieds. So why not a long one that focuses on me not you? In my opinion Escrow.com is really the only way to do a remote purchase and make sure you don't lose your money and to make sure the seller is taken care of as well. It is the only escrow company endorsed by edmunds and ebay. I used them to buy my Wagon from a Ratsun member who was so diligent he actually drove to their offices in CA and checked them out. They create a legal process endorsed and licensed that ensures you get the car or your money back. Worth the fees. They have been doing it for decades and were one of the first to focus on online and remote sales. Normally escrow is used in real estate or is done by lawyers. But with the proliferation of trading in higher priced, or just rare goods (in the case of datsuns) escrow is expanding to lots of things including cars. The process simplified is as follows. The seller starts by creating the escrow saying what the car is and what the price is and how long they will give the buyer to inspect the goods. The buyer accepts the details or asks for changes, but once they agree the buyer accepts and sends the money to the escrow company, which is a real brick and mortor in CA. You can send the money many ways. The escrow company then lets the seller know they have the money and transportation that provides tracking is arranged, escrow.com requires they have a relationship with the transporter so they can confirm by trusted third party the vehicle is in transit. They have a wide network for this. The seller knowing the money is in escrow releases the vehicle to transportation. Once the vehicle delivery is taken by the buyer, the clock starts ticking. The buyer has only the agreed amount of time to inspect. They either accept or reject. If the clock ticks out they have de-facto accepted. If accepted they indicate and the escrow gives the money to the seller. If rejected the process is reversed and the buyer does not get their money back until the seller indicates they have the vehicle back. During the process you can decide who pays what fees etc. The buyer could pay all fees, they can be shared or split up. But all of that has to be arranged before any step is completed or escrow halts the process. So they keep your hands clean. They make their cut on the fees. It is not totally cheap, but I feel totally worth it if you can't afford to lose the money. I also paid extra for a title service. With title service they require the title in their hands before they will allow for transportation. Then when the buyer accepts, they won't fund the seller until they sign the title, then they ship it to the buyer. This is very convenient and worth the money over going through the interstate beuracracies with bill of sale and all of that to force title should the seller not send it. It also adds security over sending it in the glove box or some foolishness. All in all it was a long process, but I felt worth it as they really walked the process along and at all points both myself and the seller were secure.

Hey I recognize that air freshener! Anything I could add to this thread was just said more expertly.

I drive mine any time it isn't raining. Pretty new to me, bought from a previous ratsun member. Just got the speedometer working which helps. Going to go in for some work soon though. Lack of A/C makes it a pretty nice sauna But heat ain't no thing.

In scrubbng forums for install tips I saw a lot of folks who used CableX exactly this way, magnets epoxied somewhere. It has a pretty wide range for calibrating so it seems one could get it reading a good speed off a lot of the rotating parts of the drivetrain.

Small Update. I did get the CableX installed. I have a working original speedo with a sr20DET swap. The CableX is really quiet. Much more than I thought it would be. It is quiet enough to live in the cabin, there is a little spot behind the heater core I will slip it into. The wiring was easy. Added fuse, spliced in the wires. It is working great right along with the SSI. Calibration was a multi-day afair for me. I did the math, but that only got close. From there I just started moving up and down the chart until I had something that worked. I mean given the size of the needle and such, this is not precision work by any stretch.I will post those figures in a how to when I dig pictures out. But my rear end is not stock so I think anyone will have to figure their own any how. It is really fun to watch that old speedo work! Strangley though the odometer does not seem to be moving. Not that it needs to but I kind of figured it would. Guess it is broken.

More to report. I got the Speed Sensor Interface from PLMS in Australia. I wired it in per instructions, which was very simple especially since he threw in a plug to the speed sensor wiring that was already there. Installing this did really help my issues around deceleration and stopping. My stalling loping and idle problems just went away all together. I am very happy about this! I can now pull up to any stop sign or red light with confidence and no longer feathering the throttle. It was really night and day actually. This does put the speed limit back into the sr20 stock ECU, but the clever thing is you can adjust the divider on the Speed Sensor Interface by moving a a little ground sleeve over to a second set of pinouts and halve the divider and double the limit. The ecu still reads deceleration just fine. This guy builds these as a labor of love and to support his sr30DET swapping and wiring looms. I am really happy he sent one all the way to the US for me. http://www.plmsdevelopments.com/ Now I can split the signal from the speed sensor in the transmission to the cableX and have the trick of a working horizontal speedo and a happy stock ecu. I hope. On that note I also got the new cable back from tachman and the metric threads fit correctly, yay! But the cable itself still didn't quite fit. Still a little big. But this time I was able to file it down with a slightly different technique and got it fitting like butter in only about 15 minutes. I still need to mount the box and wire this in. I have pictures up to here and will do a full write up on both of these when I finish this slowmotion speedo project.