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grazapin

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  • Location
    Seattle, WA
  • Cars
    1975 B210

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  1. I'll check the fuse. It could be a short caused by water. Since the rain hasn't been as intense the past few days I haven't noticed it happening.
  2. datzenmike, Thanks, I saw your original thread with the brass bushings but I don't think it had the photo of the hacksaw cut. If I weren't in the middle of doing clutch, brakes and tie rod ends I might have gone that route, but since the plastic bushing were available I went with them in order to save myself some time. Major upside of doing it your way is you can be sure those bushings aren't going to disintegrate and disappear over time like the plastic bushings.
  3. In the past couple weeks the "Fasten Belts" light and buzzer have started acting up in my '75 B210. I first noticed it when it was parked and not running when I heard that familiar buzzer sound faintly while I walked by my car in the driveway, and on looking inside I saw the "Fasten Belts" light was on. It will randomly turn on and off while parked and I sometimes hear the relay clicking when I'm driving as well. It seems like when it's functioning normally the condition necessary to trigger the "Fasten Belts" warning is for the key to be turned to on when the seatbelt is not fastened, so I'm hoping since I hear the relay clicking while the belt is fastened that the relay is going bad. Either that or I have sporadic feedback from the ignition switch or seatbelt sensor. Does anyone know which relay I'd need to replace and where exactly it is? Also, which part number would it be? The wiring diagram in my Clymer manual shows the relays but doesn't have part numbers. Rockauto lists 10 different models of multi-function relays for my car. I'm starting to think I should just bite the bullet and pay for a factory service manual.
  4. Just in case anyone else needs this info, this is what I found for shifter bushings and boot. This has some good info: http://datsun1200.com/modules/mediawiki/index.php?title=Transmission_Gear_Control If I'd searched around here at Ratsun a bit more I would've probably found the part number for the shifter bushings: 32855-H1010. I was able to have a local Nissan dealer get some for me, but they're kinda spendy since they are only sold in a 5-pack. They charged me $4 each, which is stupid for a tiny piece of plastic, but I won't have to spend time customizing something else to work. If anyone needs some let me know since I'll have 3 extras. The shifter boot is part number 75963-H5000 and is apparently no longer available to dealers. I found this on Ebay for $22.09 shipped: http://www.ebay.com/itm/DATSUN-720-UTE-PICKUP-B210-120Y-COVER-SHIFT-KNOB-BOOT-LEVER-OUTER-/161882039013?hash=item25b0ebe2e5:m:mVYDrpdoaJmlWJlOyC8AxtQ&vxp=mtr It ships from Bangkok so I won't get it for 2-4 weeks. I'll try to report back on whether it's worth buying once I get it installed.
  5. I got the clutch in and now it's time to replace some of the worn out minor parts I came across in the process. The inner shifter boot (the rubber accordian part that screws to the transmission tunnel inside the car) is torn, and the shifter has always been a bit sloppy like maybe 40 years ago there were plastic bushings at the shifter linkage that have long since disintegrated. Does anyone know of a source for either of these?
  6. Mechanic said $870 for worst case scenario which includes $540 labor, $220 clutch kit and $95 flywheel resurfacing. Labor cost is what it is, but that clutch kit seems excessive. The one I bought was $71.
  7. Excellent, thanks for the feedback datzenmike and Dguy210. For clutch kits/parts, are there any brands to avoid? Edit: I think I'll go with this PowerTorque kit since I can get it at my local O'reilly in a day. http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/PTQ5/KF53701.oap?ck=Search_kf537-01_-1_-1&keyword=kf537-01
  8. It's time to replace the clutch in my little flyer (4 speed manual) but I'm a little unclear which clutch parts to use. I initially brought it to my mechanic (before I realized I don't have enough available cash to pay a mechanic at the moment) and he said he had some difficulty finding parts and was unsure if the parts he finally found were the right parts. So I checked RockAuto and saw that there is some variation in the clutch kits that they say work on a '75 B210. Can anyone give me some guidance or relate some first hand experience? I guess it doesn't help that I'm not familiar with what some of the clutch specs actually mean. This is where I was looking: https://www.rockauto.com/catalog/x,carcode,1210790,parttype,1993 Here are some examples from the RockAuto page that are throwing me off: 7-1/4; Disc mm 184; Disc in 7-1/4; Splines Dia 13/16; Splines 18 7-1/8; Disc mm 180; Disc in 7-1/8; Splines Dia 1; Splines 18 Disc Size (in) 7 1/8 x 13/16 x 24
  9. This saved me some time yesterday morning when I was warming up my B210 and the wipers stopped mid-swipe. Picked this up at my local O'reilly, clipped off 2 opposite tabs (the wiper linkage has just 2 notches around the hole) and it snapped right in. Thanks!
  10. Damn, that was easy. Didn't even have to crawl under the car to replace the filter like other cars I've owned. Gotta love old Datsuns with replaceable parts conveniently located and easily accessible in the engine compartment, and there's even room to work in there. That's more than can be said for many modern vehicles. datzenmike, your parts budget was 40% high. Total cost was just under $3 with tax. :)
  11. My bone stock '75 B210 recently started giving me grief in specific situations. I can drive around in stop and go traffic all day, but if I cruise on an uphill for a while going a steady 35mph+ it suddenly acts like I've run out of gas and dies. I can usually fire it right back up and continue driving. Here's some scale of how long it takes this to happen if you're familiar with Seattle. I can get on northbound 99 at Denny and cruise almost all the way up to the Aurora bridge and it will almost always die right there. Then I can continue on north and it will die again just before cresting the hill at around 50th. If anyone can point me in the direction of where to start troubleshooting this issue I'd be grateful.
  12. grazapin

    Heater hoses

    Thanks ggzilla. That's bizarre that everywhere I've looked online has 5/8" and 3/4". That's a pretty big difference. I'm glad I didn't drain coolant and pull out the existing hoses today.
  13. grazapin

    Heater hoses

    This is a super basic question but I haven't found a definitive answer yet. In my '75 B210 what size(s) are the heater hoses? You'd think it would be listed in the shop manual but my old Clymer manual doesn't say. Most online parts houses show me bulk 5/8" hose, but Rockauto has that plus a 3/4" hose listed under heater hoses. The hoses in the car right now look smaller than the 5/8" I ordered, but that's just judging from outside diameter. I want to be sure I have the right size before I start pulling things apart since this is my daily driver.
  14. That's where I found the Strongarms but they don't show up in that list on Rockauto anymore because I got the last 2. :) It looks like the Sachs comes with the hatch brackets so you won't have to mess with removing those annoying pins in the u-bracket in order to reuse the existing hatch brackets.
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