wobbedennis

I couldn't find much for these engines on that site. and the builds I can find on here are of a different engine, not the factory A series. The engine in my car is the factory A-14, so that's why I want to build it. And I don't want a radical build, I just want to bump the horse power rating to about 100.

also, may I ask what would be the best build for my little engine?

ok, it's in a 1979 210, and it's the original engine. it has the casting mark, and what would I have to do to get this engine to the 1.5L specs, with higher compression?

subject kind of says it all. I want to build an A-14 to the A-15 specs, but I don't know if the block will work. ideas?

I have an E3 that was given to me for a single cylinder Honda. It's fouled on me a couple of times now. it's worthless. I run factory in my car/trucks. So for my Jeep, it's Champions, my Ford, Motorcraft, My 210, NGK, but I had to step them down in heat.

What's the carb's issue?

yeah, it goes through a one way valve on the thermostat housing, and from there into the exhaust, but I don't know where it's put into the exhaust at.

you have me, I don't see how a smog pump could cause a intake back fire, I can see exhaust, but not intake.

just for laughs I removed the belt from the smog pump, The back fire went away. car's running dead smooth at all rpms, the smog pump was causing most of my issues, carb coming out the rest.

Trust me, I had to go through this engine cause the previous owner overheated it and warped the head. I have never let this engine over heat, it had tried to come close when I first got her on the road, but it never did. It was a cold morning and all of a sudden the heater wasn't blowing very warm air, and I looked at the temp gauge and it wasn't warmed up. Went to replace it a couple of days later, and that's when I discovered the crack, and it was JB welded back into service. Fuel filter was replaced about 3-4000 miles ago, and I have plenty of gas, and once I remove the load from the engine, it sputters back up to rpm, and clears it self out, and this is not driving, this is just trying to load the engine more so it warms up a little faster. I plan on converting the car over to a manual before to long, so I don't really care about this auto trans. I have check the choke, it fully opens, however, on the secondary side of the carb, (by the way, it's the factory Hitachi DCH 306-63) the carb looks to be drenched in gas. and it doesn't dry up. Also, I played with the carb and most of the issues went away, except it back firing through the carb when I'm pushing the car, like I would to merge onto the highway, or to climb some of the mountain roads we have around here.

My old Datsun 210 is having some issue. I reconnected the smog pump, and it hasn't run right since. When I have to get on it, which now is all of the time, and I let off, it back fires through the carb. It also is really easy to flood out, and if it stays under a heavy load for a while, 30 seconds or greater, it begins to flood out, and it cuts power. and misses, it now has a miss, but it jumps from cylinder to cylinder, so it's not just on one cylinder. Plugs are getting carbon fouled out, and I have yet to disconnect the pump to see if that changes anything, but the idle has changed, the whole running characteristics of the car has changed. It sat for a week and a half after I lost the thermostat (it stuck open)and found a crack in the housing. hasn't run the same since I got it back on the road.

I was able to get the original working. I soldered it back together.

NVM, Found it. It vibrated apart, and disintegrated when I tried to put it back together. I'm just going to slap it back in and hunt for a good one. In the mean time, I'm going to rig something together so I can have a heater. If you guys find one laying around or something, or you think of me and look and find one, let me know. I'll be watching this topic close to see if I find one. I'll also post in the wanted ads.

Ok I played with it some more. When I hot wire the hot side of the switch to others, I get the blower motor to turn on in other areas. The switch is fine, but the resistor coil is shot. where is it and How do I replace it if it's replaceable

where is the resistor coil at on a 210?