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giantcone

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About giantcone

  • Birthday 04/10/1977

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    NisSanta Fé, NM
  • Cars
    1985 Nissan 720 King Cab
  • Interests
    Motorcyling (Guzzis, UMJs), Basic Auto Mechanics, Linux,
    Networking, Scientific Programming
  • Occupation
    Computer Insultant

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  1. Hey Powderfinger, the propane idea is not bonkers, but I recommend that you look into R-290 (which is propane formulated for use with refrigerant systems). It is compatible with R-12 & R-22 systems from what I understand. I've seen bottles and cans of it for sale on ebay. Perhaps a bit more pricey than propane intended for combustion (grilling/heating). I have a 720 that came without A/C from the factory. I'm thinking about putting in the components for getting an A/C in the truck. If you need to replace the evap core, I've seen some new aftermarket ones going for around $60. I'm a bit uncertain about compatibility between a 1985 720 and the later D-21 models, so I haven't pulled the trigger on buying parts yet. I won't hijack this thread, but I may make a new one (or search for an already existing one) about attempting to "shoehorn" in a factory A/C system.
  2. I took the cover to one local machine shop, the machinist seemed unwilling to weld the damage up on the cover. I likely need to ask around some more. In speaking with my father who has decades of experience with welding, he stated that one consideration would be warping from the heat of the weld. He hasn't seen the piece however. I guess I could ship it to him and he could perform the TIG weld. I've been calling around junkyards here and it seems that all the ones I've called have scrapped all their late 70s early 80s Nissan vehicles or just don't have them anymore. There is a "U-pull 'n Pay" in Albuquerque, but in my experience one pays $2 to get in to wander around only not to find the needed vehicle or part and waste hours under the blazing sun. I'm thinking repair is the way to go in my situation.
  3. On the hunt for a FS5W71B transmission front cover plate suitable for the 56 mm front counter-shaft bearing. 

    Not too optimistic after querying several junkyards in Santa Fé and Albuquerque. Seems that these vehicles and their parts have been scrapped already. I figured as much.

    1. datzenmike

      datzenmike

      Did you try our Classifieds????? https://ratsun.net/classifieds/category/9-datsun-parts/ Lots of people have parts laying around that don't read the 720 forum. Or status upgrades.....

  4. Here are the images of the cover as it is now. I'll sleuth around here for older Nissans in the junkyards.
  5. Okay, I'll take the path of least resistance and simply get a new 56 mm bearing, seals, and a front cover gasket and try to get the truck back on the road as quickly and safely as I can. I'd post some images of the cracked front cover, but I don't have any accounts on these image sharing websites ( I tried using my Google drive, but that didn't work). The crack isn't too bad, and I think I can fill it with an epoxy like JB Weld and get the inside close to the original shape (if not material) that it was. Chatting with @wayno off-band I get the impression that finding a brand new 56 mm front cover could be difficult. I was looking at nissanpartsdeal.com and I believe they're only selling the newer 62 mm cover. If you care to see pictures, let me know and I'll grudgingly attempt to set myself up with one of those image sharing services. Thanks for the advice gang
  6. Another possible complication: I checked out the Nachi bearing catalog and couldn't find a bearing that had a 22 mm inner diameter with a 62 mm diameter outer race. I recognize the "63/22" bearing model number from the outer race of my 56 mm front counter-shaft bearing. The 62 mm outer diameter bearings only seem to come in a 25 mm inner diameter race (the model # 6305). I did a cursory check for NTN and SKF bearings and came up with the same results... Would anyone confirm if the change in the counter-shaft front bearing size also meant an increase of the diameter of the counter-shaft itself? If so, then I'm going to have to go with just replacing with the 56 mm bearing... or pursue the 71C transplant as @bottomwatcher suggested. I'll keep looking, but I obviously need to pay attention to all the details when it comes to replacing bearings.
  7. Found the following post @ Datsun1200. Linking it here for posterity's sake as it has a good compilation of info about the 71 series transmissions: http://datsun1200.com/modules/mediawiki/index.php?title=71-series_Transmission Seems that the 71C also comes in the long-tail versions as well (?). Must have if used in the D21 trucks, right? Or perhaps they just were made with one overall length? Longer than the 71B "stumpies" but shorter that the 71B long-tails? I think I'll stick with my plan for now for fixing the 71B and getting the truck on the road again. I can take the time to do my proper research and upgrade to a 71C in the future when life become less hectic. Thanks for the info gang!
  8. So I made up my mind and will rebuild the transmission I have, but get the bell housing hole for the front counter-shaft bearing bored out to accommodate a 62mm bearing. I'll buy the 62mm front cover from wayno to get the job done. I'll clean up the transmission guts with mineral spirits and lube with light oil this Saturday to check if the remaining bearings are okay. I'm not seeing or feeling any bearing binding or roughness in the transmission as I rotate the input shaft. I'm really not keen on tearing this all apart to replace the other 5 roller bearings (I believe I have that count correct), although my father and another friend seem bent on persuading me to do so. If anyone else wants to comment on that matter, I'll heed your advice.
  9. In repair mode due to transmission front counter-shaft bearing failure. Committed to getting the "Spar Tan" back on the road!

  10. So just to update this thread before it gets too stale, I did replace the leaf spring rubber bushings with polyurethane bushings (around the same time I did the clutch work). While I was driving it (before my transmission front counter-shaft bearing decided to grenade), I did feel that the ass end of the truck no longer felt like it was swaying during fast turns. While the ride is a bit harsher, the truck did ride better. I put some 3M 08946 silicone paste on the bushings, so there's no squeaking either (hopefully it stays that way). As for the sidewall flexing issue with the P-rated tires I have (Discount Tire Sentury P195/75-R14 X-load rated supposedly), I'm just going to live with it as that's just the way it is. While the truck was running, I increased the pressures to Front:30 psi, Rear: 40 psi. That selection gives the same ratio of front to rear pressures on the door jamb plate which specifies a Front: 24 psi, Rear: 32 psi, while running at 80% of the maximum pressure (49 psi) for those X-load P-rated tires for the rears. That also seemed to improve handling of the truck as well. I just felt that 24 psi in the front was a bit low (although I had been running that pressure for years). I really like the fact that the available tires for the 14" wheels are quite affordable. I'll live with what I got; given everything else going on, I have enough to fuss over for now.
  11. Well that does give me more rocks to kick around... thanks B.Dub! 😛 I guess I could go the FS5W71C route, if the transmission rebuilders are willing to take the 71B as a core. It would save me time that I don't have to repair a transmission that I suppose is deemed questionable by the Ratsun Regents. Was there really no long extended 71C like was done with the 71B? The main issue I have would be getting the tweaking work done for fitting the 71C on the truck. I could get the longer driveshaft done in Albuquerque, and as for the transmission cross member support, I suppose that would need to be modified to be positioned closer to the front of the truck. It's little things like this that end up taking a simple job and making drawn out... at least for me anyways. Also what are the key differences between the FS5W71B and the FS5W71C besides the larger front counter-shaft front bearing? ___________________________________________ Question about details for the FS5W71C: I'm a bit confused from another thread where [Mike discusses the FS5W71C]: in the context 240SX. Seems to be several different mentions of ratios for the FS5W71C in the above linked thread, quoting: "The FS5W71C 240sx transmission is 1st 3.321, 2nd 1.902, 3rd 1.308, 4th 1.0, 5th 0.765" [from StupidFast] "Genuine 5-speed (FS5W71C ) 3.3214 1.9023 1.3084 1.0000 .8378" [from bmoses] I take it from a picture Mike put up in that thread, the 2nd of the above is the proper FS5W71C used for the latter D21 successor to the 720 series? Info out on the web seems sketchy about this transmission. Did they use the same transmission, for cars but changed the input drive ratio? Putting link to another useful thread here related to this topic: Thanks for all the info!
  12. Thanks Mike, That's reassuring. I was a bit concerned as the minimum thickness of aluminum in the bell housing between the two bearing holes is 7.5 mm. The machinist didn't mention any concern about that point, so I suppose I should not worry myself over it either. I guess I got one from the bad batch of the 1985 720s. The driver door plate states it was manufactured AUG 1984. So it got slapped with one of the older FS5W71Bs with the smaller front counter-shaft bearing. Looking at my maintenance logs going back to when I got the truck back in late 2007 with only 28,154 on the odometer, the times I've changed the transmission fluid: 2010-NOV-07: 42,612: Sta Lube GL-4 80W-90 2015-SEP-14: 110,914: Red Line MT-90 GL-4 75W-90 2018-DEC-15: 163,885: Sta Lube GL-4 80W-90 (also replaced the clutch, PP, and TO bearing w/Luk clutch kit. Old clutch was wafer thin) 2019-APR: 167,763: current state of affairs Definitely, too long of a gap between changes in terms of both mileage and time...
  13. Thanks Mike & BW, I'm still kicking rocks around about what to do with this 71B. My father and a friend say to get a bearing kit and replace all of them and rebuild. I talked to a local machine shop about boring out the front counter-shaft bearing hole in the bell housing from 56mm to 62mm; that'll be $100 to $150. **I'm assuming here that when Nissan did that mod on the 71B (or 71C?) that they kept the distance between the main and counter-shafts the same.** If I play the naive replace route, I'd just slap another 56mm front counter-shaft bearing in it, leave the bell housing alone, and I guess apply JB Weld to thee: crack on that front bearing cover and hope for the best. I have been scouring the Ratsun 720 forums about this issue and have good background info. I'm seeing some rebuilt FS5W71C transmissions at https://www.midwesttrans.com/FS5W71_Manual_Transmission.html going for just under $1000, but I need to ask if they have ones with the extended ass end. (Interesting that the FS571C was used on the 2000-2004 Frontier...)
  14. ¡Hola Gang! So I fell victim to the front counter-shaft bearing blowout issue. Had that gravel sounding issue right around the time I replaced the clutch and thought I had screwed up the throw-out bearing install. Nope, I did clutch correctly, only to have that 56 mm front counter-shaft bearing finally grind the races to a nice silver paint and put a crack in that front cast aluminum housing part. Given that the front plate is cracked, and that getting a front plate sized for the 62 mm counter-shaft front bearing would likely be easier, I'm thinking about getting a rebuild kit for the later model FS5W71B transmissions to get the larger bearing and also get a new front plate to accommodate it. The only issue would be getting the bell housing hole for that front counter-shaft bearing bored out to the larger size. I'm going to take the housing and that front plate to a machine shop to get an estimate for going the larger size, or just welding up that front plate up. Any advice on this would be greatly appreciated as usual.
  15. I've been using my RWD 720 for carrying motorcycles around for some time. It seems that recently I'm noticing that there's a lot of side-to-side swaying in the truck bed when I'm loading a motorcycle. I've had some close calls of dumping the bike when I'm on the bed of the truck. I was suspecting that issue was due to the shocks. I replaced the shocks with what I think are decent grade Gabriel shocks, but that didn't solve the problem. I also ensure that I inflate the rear tires (P 195/75 R14 XL load rating) to around 38 psi, but the rocking is still there. I'm beginning to suspect that it's all due to the passenger tires and the fact that there isn't much sidewall strength (even for XL rated passenger tires), and that the swaying during the loading of a motorcycle is due to the sidewall flex. I found LT tires that are commonly used on VW Vanagons: Yokohama Y356 (going for ~ $119 a tire). They're summer only tires. Would this be an option that I should be considering if I wan't to cure the swaying issue? I'll be hauling 2 motorcycles (around 950 lbs) across country in late April. On paper the passenger tires I have should be adequate to do the job, but the sidewall flex is a bit unnerving. Also, could anyone comment on the driver door jamb tire pressure numbers given for the P195/75 R14 tires. My label states 24 psi in the front and 32 psi for the rear, that front amount seems rather low. My big official Nissan Service Manual has those same numbers for a "Heavy Load" on the back of the book, but also suggests running 24 psi front and rear for "normal load", that seems too low in my opinion. The LT tire inflation for LT 195/75 R14 tires are given at 35 front and 65 rear (if I remember correctly). Any comments on this info (whether the label or manual figures should be followed or not) would be greatly appreciated. ¡Mucho Thanks!
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