HEY GUYS, I WAS BROWSING THE NET AND CAME ACROSS THIS POST. PULLING THE WIRING HARNESS FROM THE DIESEL IS GOING WAY TO FAR. I HAVE DONE 3 OF THESE CONVERSIONS, AND IT IS NOT NECESSARY. THINGS TO CONSIDER:
ALL THE TEMP, OIL, AND AMP GAUGES WORK BASICALLY THE SAME. YOUR PUMP IS MECHANICAL, ALL THE PCM DOES IS CUT IT OFF AND ON. YOU HAVE A TRUE 12 VOLT GLOW PLUG SYSTEM. IT IS NOT A 6V PLUG LIKE ON THE ISUZUS. AND RABBITS.
ALL YOU HAVE TO DO IS CAREFULLY MARK YOUR MAIN WIRES TO THE TEMP, OIL, ETC. COMPONENTS ON THE GAS ENGINE. MARK THE PRIMARY IGN. WIRE TO THE COIL FOR A PRIMARY WIRE IF YOU NEED IT AND IF YOU HAVE A 85 IT HAS AN ELEC. FUEL PUMP YOU CAN STILL USE TO TRANSFER THE DIESEL WITH.
EVERY SWAP I HAVE DONE, I PLACED THE ENGINE AND TRANS TOGETHER. HOOKED UP THE DRIVE SHAFT, INSTALLED THE CROSS MEMBER, LOWERED THE ENGINE WITH MOUNTS ATTACHED DOWN ON TO THE GAS FRAME AND SPOT WELDED IN 3 LOCATIONS. IF MOUNT GOES BAD, NO PROB A DIE GRINDER AND A FRESH WELDING ROD WONT FIX. AS YOU INSTALL YOUR DIESEL COMPONENTS, YOU WILL FIND THAT FOR EVERY PLACE A GAS BURNER MOUNT HAS A HOLE IN THE ENGINE BAY, THE DIESEL COMPONENTS MOUNT BACK IN THE SAME PLACE. AS FOR THE GLOW PLUGS, GET A PUSH BUTTON, A OLD MODEL FORD STARTER RELAY, 2 GOOD HEAVY BATTERY CABLES, AND SOME CUTTING PLIERS. SELF EXPLANATORY. FOR THE FUEL PUMP: I HAVE OPERATED ALL OF MINE OFF OF A PUSH PULL CABLE. PRIMITIVE I KNOW, BUT THIS IS HOW ALL OF THE IH SCOUTS WITH THE SD33 DIESEL WORK. DONT MAKE IT ANY HARDER THAN IT HAS TO BE. ITS BASICALY A TRACTOR WITH A CAB. MY DAILY DRIVER IS A 85 SWB I PLACED A 81 DIESEL IN. KEEP THE GAS FUEL TANK, DRAIN IT OF COURSE, SWAP YOUR BELL HOUSINGS IF YOU DONT ALREADY HAVE A TRANNY, KEEP THE GAS REAREND. I AVERAGE 38-42 MPG AT 65 MPH AND THE TRUCK HAS NO STRAIN AT ALL.