Mike210

Datzen Mike, If the U-joint was non-replaceable, then what would you do if it went out? Would you have to replace the drive shaft and yokes? btw, I have a carquest, oreilly's and advance auto here in my town, plus a privately owned driveshaft speciallist. None of them could figure out what to get, even when looking at the original U-joint. Do you think Napa will have better luck? There's a Napa store about 15 miles away from my town. Oreilly's ordered the U-joint for the B-110 and it didn't fit. The caps were the right style and width, but the U-joint itself was too big.

Hello Folks, Surely I'm not the only person who has had to replace the U-joint on an old B210. At least I hope I'm not. My U-joint on the drive shaft went out completely. I removed it without too much difficulty, but now I can not locate a replacement. I tried every auto parts store and even a U-joint distributor. Finally, one parts store that specializes in imports said their computer lists this car as having a "non-replaceable" U-joint. And they said I would have to order a new drive shaft that would come with new U-joints in it. Well I don't think that is necessary considering it was not very difficult to get my old U-joint out. It has 4 little C-clips that hold it in. I knocked those out, and tapped on the Yoke a bit and it came right out. I saw another post by DatzenMike on here with a very good description of the removal process. So in short, Does anyone know of a part number or supplier to go through to get a couple U-joints for a 1978 B210 GX with the 5-speed manual??? I reckon it is the same U-joint as a regular B210 with the 4-speed manual tranny. Any info is great info. Thanks, Mike

I agree with Doctor510. It's pretty certain that either you're not getting power to the solenoid, or the solenoid itself is bad and not clicking. If connecting the little terminals on the solenoid don't do anything, then you can use a single jumper cable wire to connect the starter to the battery to make sure that part still works. I've even run jumper cables into my car before to start it using this method. Not a permanent solution, but it helps you illeminate possible problems.

My U-joints are replaceable. They look similar in design to the photos at the beginning of this thread. They have the very same type of semi-circular clip holding them in, but the U-joint itself looks to be smaller. I took some pictures. Here is the replacement I received partially installed. I am holding the old one next to it to show the difference in size. The old one and new one have the same size of outer roller diameter, but the over-all width of the U-joint is smaller on the old one. Here is the Newer one in the Yoke. It sort of fits, but when it's in the middle of the yoke, I won't be able to get the clips on. And so I'm wondering if I can just weld the ends of the roller caps a little bit to keep the U-joint in place? Here is a picture. I would weld just a little bit on the outside of the roller and the yoke next to where my thumb is: Welding scares me for two reasons, I might not get the U-joint centered as well as the clips would, which might make it vibrate. Also, I am worried the weld would damage the roller. I am not worried about replacing it in the future. I don't plan to put THAT many more miles on the car. (knock on wood). Obviously, the best solution would be to get the correct U-joint, but I have not been able to find a part number anywhere for it. Any recommendations? There are some other parts shops I can try, but I reckon they will have the same incorrect on listed. Thanks guys. Mike

I'm not sure if you'll see this since it's an older thread, but I'll post it separately if no one see's it. So I'm replacing the U-joints on my 1978 B210 GX 5 speed. They were well past the squeak stage and had moved into the vibration stage. I'm having difficulty getting the right replacement U-joint. Oreilly's is usually my go-to for most stuff. The only 1978 Datsun they have in the book was a 110. I believe the part number for the U-joint was 393 or maybe 392. Anyway, we ordered it and it is just a little too big. The ends of the U-joint are the right size for the yokes, but they don't come in far enough to get the retaining rings on because the center of the U-joint is beefier than the original. My question is 2-part: Does any one know the correct U-joint to get for a 1978 B210 GX 5-speed front and rear on the driveshaft? or.... Since the bigger U-Joint fits, but can't be secured by the retaining clips, what if I just spot well a little on the outside of the yoke to keep it from coming out? I'll have to take really good care of it since I'll never be able to replace it again. (at least not very easily) Thanks for any info!

Love the paint Scheme. I may steal that idea for my own B210. Good luck with the Tranny swap.

Just curious: If you like it so much, why cram such a big engine into it?

Hi yall, Ever since I acquired my 1978 B210 GX, the fuel gauge has not worked properly at all. I dropped the tank and pulled out the sender. It was a littler worn and there was significant wear on the rubbing contacts. While it was out of the tank, but still wired, I was able to get it to work momentarily. I cleaned it up some more and stuck it back in. Unfortunately, it still did not work once it was re-assembled. I've been trying to find a replacement, and have not had any luck at all. This is not a part that gets replaced very often apparently. I'm planning to drop my tank and have a go at trying to fix the old one again, but if anyone knows where I can get a replacement, that would probably be best. I'd prefer a much newer replacement, since an old one will most likely be in the same condition as the one I have now. I've tried Rock Auto, Ebay, and local parts stores. Thanks.

my recently acquired 1978 B210 GX. It is total rock and roll and gets even better every time I take a screwdrive, wrench, or occasionally the grinder to it.

Also, the dealership just now called me back. They said they can get it for 30 dollars. The part plus shipping from Rock Auto was only about 13 bucks! Rock and Roll.

Izzo, You have done it very good. I was not very familiar with Rock Auto. It appears to be a gold mine of cheap parts. I ordered the accelerator cable right away. thank you very much!! :thumbup:

Hi yall, When I had a 1976 B210, I was usually able to get most basic parts at O'reilly Automotive, my favorite non-online parts supplier. Yesterday, I went there to get a new Throttle Cable for my 1978 B210 and they could not get it. My question is two parts. 1. Throttle cable: other than paying the dealership price, does anyone know where to get a new one? I'll go to the dealership if I absolutely have to. 2. Part numbers: Does anyone have like a PDF of part numbers for B210. I also own a 1972 Honda and I was able to find a massive PDF of all the part numbers of every single piece of that car. It is very helpful when trying to acquire a part. Especially when working with the dealership. thanks.

Izzo, I thought about Webers, but I'd like to keep the original air cleaner set up. And I really like the fuel economy with my original carb. ggzilla, I'll check inside my distributor and adjust the choke. Those are good ideas. I had simply experienced more sucktion on the vacuum line with other vehicles, so I thought something might be wrong with my Datsun when I did not feel as much sucktion as I was used to feeling. thanks guys.

Hi guys, I'm new to this forum, but not really new to the B210. I recently acquired a 1978 B210 GX. It runs ok, but could be better. It seems as though the vacuum advance does not suck very well. It does not advance the timing very much at all. If I take the hose off the carb, the engine keeps on going as if there is no vacuum leak at all, and I can not feel much vacuum at all on the little vacuum hose attachment on the carb. I used to have a 1976 B210 and the vacuum advance hose had much more suck in it. And if I took the hose off the carb, the engine would usually die. That's why I think there is something wrong with my 1978 B210. Also, the car idles really rough in the morning, even on a warm morning. It usually will die unless it has been running for more than 5 minutes. I checked for vacuum leaks and there definitely are none. My question is this: What would be the best action? I like simplicity, longevity, and fuel economy. Should I send off my carb to be rebuilt, or can I simply acquire a rebuilt carb? Or would it be better to go after market?? If I send off my carb, where would be a good place to send it?? I'm in Kansas City, but I don't mind sending it in the post. I also found this site for a replacement: http://www.nationalcarburetors.com/lookup.aspx?partnum=DAT205 That's the best price I've found so far. I didn't see anything on ebay under $150, and most carbs were over $200. Any info is good info. Thanks.

If you are able to get those bumper ends, please let me know as well. I could also use a few ends for my '78.