Orange620

I was in the Rancho Cordova Pick n Pull today and saw there is a 79 620 King Cab that has been misidentified as a 76. It has an L20B that's been rebuilt with a W53 head. It also has the 5 speed, the diff and even a tach. The distributor is gone. Hope someone can get em.

Agree, the bare column looks fine, just need a cover behind the wheel for the blinker switch mechanicals. I'm going to see what I can do with a piece of 3 1/2" metal tube split lengthwise.

Looking for the delete button. Any suggestions?

Has anyone ever seen a different/better option used instead of the plastic 620 steering column cover? I'd even consider relocating the ignition and flasher switches if there was something like a metal Roadster/Fairlady part that would fit or be made to fit, to cover the turn signal switch mechanism.

Saw that last night. It was supposed to be a Taliban "Technical". I guess that's one way to get a little more space if you can't find a King Cab.

If you can get $1500 for your dirt bikes, this sounds like the one to buy. http://lasvegas.craigslist.org/cto/1383896133.html

I meant Z22 rod. "A short connecting rod exerts more force to the crank pin at any crank angle that counts ie.--20-o ATDC to 70-o ATDC... A short rod would always be the choice for maximum torque" http://www.stahlheaders.com/Lit_Rod%20Length.htm I recall now that the KA crank has bigger main journals than an L/Z crank so its no good to put in a Z22. However you're right, maybe a Z24 crank in a late Z22 block with early Z22 rods. It would definitely need custom slipper pistons though. In California 1975 is the cut off for smog exemption. Read the "I've been BAR-reffed" thread to see why having an engine at least look smog legal(pre-76) can avoid problems.

You have a real good point. The stroke of a 2.4 KA is only 4mm longer than an early Z22(96mm vs. 92mm), however the rods are 19mm shorter(165mm vs. 145.9). The short rods probably provide at least an equivalent mechanical advantage as far as torque. I suppose the ultimate Torque monster engine using factory parts would be a late Z22 block(supposedly the best Z22 block) with a KA crank(96 mm, forged) and early Z22 rods(shorter and stronger) and Z22 pistons(cheap). If stock pistons could even be used I'm sure the piston skirts would need serious clearancing and the dish enlarged, if possible. Has anyone put a KA crank in a Z22 block? I know fuel injection is superior in every functional way to carbs, but I want the engine to look pre-1976. My BMW 2002 Tii has a cold start valve which is an electrically opened jet that allows extra fuel to be sprayed(at about 100psi) into the the throttle body for a second or two when the engine is started. It starts right now, regardless of cold temps. Its something that could be added to a carb manifold. The thing about SUs I don't like is their lack of electric fuel shut off solenoids. Has anyone solved that?

I'm not wanting the truck go any faster(except pulling a load up a hill), I'd just like to have the most torque I can possibly get from an L appearing engine. Mostly, I want to be able to put it in 5th and cruise at 75/80 with the throttle barely cracked open. With carbs, a small valve L head will do that better than a 12 or 16 valve head. However, I'd also like to be able to load the bed with camping gear and hook a 1500# dune buggy up behind it with a tow bar and haul it up HWY 50 to the east side of the Sierras. You're right about part of the reason I want to do it is to be different, but the other reason I want the KA engine to appear factory 60s is in this thread. http://forum.ratsun.net/showthread.php?t=14111 I'll block whatever oil drain hole that needs it and use the Z24 pistons. I'd also like to use the shorter Z24 rods for additional torque but that would require custom pistons. As far as spending a lot of money, I bought the KA engine for $100 and am pulling the L head and timing cover off a 620 that's going to Pick n Pull in about a week. I got a totally complete SSS SU package off ebay for about $130. They're flat top, (but not the boat anchor type), so nobody else bid. http://www.jetlink.net/~okayfine/su/tunacan.html I also want to know that if I put a lot of work into an engine like this, I have a bullet proof block and crank(KA).

I want to put on an L head, deep dish pistons, and SSS SU carbs. I've seen a lot of fast 510s with KA engines so the extra 100#s in a truck doesn't worry me. I want the torque of the 2.4 plus the looks of the L engine. I already have a KA block/crank/rods. I also have an L timing cover and open head. I'll make a piece to fill the gap between the timing cover and head, get the extra links for the timing chain, modify an oil pan and figure what holes need to be plugged. I'm just unsure about the mounts, whether I can use the ones off an L engine or do they need to be custom.

Beebani, Do you do mounts to set a KA engine at the correct tilt to use with a 280ZX trans and an L head?

There is one screw in the top of each instrument bezel (3). There is also a screw right below/behind the gas gauge. The cigarette lighter is usually a bitch. To remove the knobs on the switches, you push in on them then make a quarter turn(counterclockwise I think). The heater control lever knobs are held on by a small phillips screw underneath.

The 8th set down on this page, left side, looks like they're just 6" wide. They're in Oregon and only asking $100. Somebody should jump on them. http://www.carotherstire.com/wheels.php

Vaughan says he doesn't narrow 6 lug heavy duty truck rims but I wonder if he'd do a pair of these? It might be cheaper to just narrow the two wide rims than have 24 holes drilled. http://www.ericvaughnmachine.com/Services.html

Not mine. I'm in Nor Cal.