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maxima_tyler

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    Cadiz, KY
  • Cars
    2003 Nissan Maxima - 1972 Datsun 521 - 1978 Datsun 280Z

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  1. Thats the same carb/choke i have on my 521. its an electric choke, but you can buy a kit to convert to manual. i could not find the parts i needed to keep it as an automatic choke, so i bought a universal manual choke kit from O'Rielly's (Partsource/Canadian Tire in Canada) and put that in. Works well, just have to route the cable in such a way that there are very few curves.
  2. thanks for the help guys! this forum is awesome. i got the rad out and the water pump off, and picture.. No termite like pits or holes, so i think all is good there! i was about to get the head off but the battery on my laptop died so i couldnt follow the hainz video or the service manual. that'll be a task for tomorrow. i think i got the thing to TDC, but to be honest im not 100% sure. does this look right? Point lined up with lowest notch on crank pulley
  3. Ok, i have the timing chain holding wedge, and i ordered a haynes manual which should be here next week. i also have the service manuals and all that stuff. I watched Hainz's video for head replacement and i have a couple questions.. ill be doing this work with the engine still in the truck. in order to get the front cover with the water pump off, will i have to remove the radiator to get either of them out? does the front cover or the water pump have a gasket? i couldnt tell in the video... the gasket kit i bought a while ago doesnt have a gasket that looks like it will fit... if they need a gasket, can the originals be re-used if they are in good condition? do i need to remove the oil pump like in the video? im not sure why that was removed... assuming i take this apart, and hopefully it just needs a new head gasket, i'd like to clean out as much of the milky oil and coolant as i can from the system. whats the best way to do that? i'll need to clear out both the oil passages and coolant passages.
  4. Thanks! i'll watch the vid after work. Noob question time: what do i need to keep at TDC? is it a certain point on the chain? Sorry if this is already in the vid, lol
  5. sweet, its a prime item too (2 day shipping ftw), thanks!. im looking for a step by step on how to replace the head gasket if anyone has one. my searches havent turned up a good how-to yet
  6. BIG PROBLEMS! I got everything all fixed up and the truck had been driving great for a while. Then on friday cruising down the highway i started hearing a rattle from the engine, then really shortly after there was a lound KACHUNK and rattling, and i had total loss of power, though the egnine was still running. Turned it off and checked the oil and was bone dry, which was weird cause my oil light didnt come on, and i know it works properly. I let the engine cool for about an hour while a friend brought be some oil. nothing was leaking or smoking so i figured i had avoided major damage, so i tried to limp the truck home. 3 miles down the road the same thing happened, this time with total loss of power and engine stall. I hadnt lost any oil, but checked the coolant, and i couldnt see anything through the top of the radiator. i didnt want to cause anymore damage, so i got the truck towed back to the house. Yesterday i put a bottle of premixed coolant and tried to start the truck but it would crank and crank with no start. so i took off the valve cover and intake and it was full of this milky oil and coolant, like really full... Oil flowing from the coolant pipe from the block to the bottom of the carb i decided to pull the drain plug and all the coolant i had poured into the radiator poured out of the pan with the oil... i let it drain overnight to try and get it all out. so with the little research ive done, im hoping its just a blown head gasket, but im really worried i've cracked something. im looking for info on how to properly remove the cylinder head so i dont mess up the timing chain. anyone have something like this happen to them?
  7. Man, sometimes its the freakin simplest things guys, it makes me go crazy! i spent a couple hours last night trying to chase this problem and i didnt make any headway from where i was at before. Since this electrics had beat me down so much i just said f@ck it and plugged the brake switch back in, and wouldnt you know it, the brake lights started working! after i tucked away all the wires, i tried it again, and no brake lights. after a little crying i put some pressure on the brake switch tabs and the lights came on, no pressure on the tabs and they go off.. so something inside the brake switch is loose. i ordered a new switch off ebay last night, hopefully that comes soon and it fixes everything. i was hoping to get this fixed for the long weekend. doesnt look like thats gonna happen now, but at least i found the problem. My question for you guys now. if it was just the switch that wasnt working, why didnt the lights turn on when i jumped power around the switch? it showed 12.8V but no lights. i tried checking the resistance like Banzai suggested, and maybe im not using the multimeter correctly, but the meter always showed -1 or +1 in any combination of wiring and switch on/off or no switch at all.
  8. I tried this and the brake lights did not come on. i am getting 12.8v through that jump but no lights, so is it possible something is wrong at the fuse box? i put an new fuse in, but that didnt change anything... that is the only connection point i havent tried to jump around yet. if there was a break in the wire between the switch and the light, the multi meter should show 0V, right?
  9. alright guys i am thoroughly confused with my brake light problem. here's what ive tested and found.: - all bulbs are good. all lights work normally except for brake lights. both filaments in brake light bulbs work. - if i connect positive power to the green/yellow wire in the plug in the engine bay, the brake lights work. - if i connect positive power to the green/yellow wire in the plug under the passenger side dash by the glove box, the brake lights work. - if i unplug the brake light switch at the pedal and apply positive power to the connector going to the brake lights, the brake lights work. - if i unplug the brake light switch positive wire and apply positive power through the switch, the brake lights do NOT work. - if i unplug the brake light switch at the pedal entirely, and jump those two wires with a multi meter, the brake lights do NOT work, but i do get 12.85V through that jump. so i think my brake light switch is probably dead, but with that last pointer it doesnt seem to be my only problem.... there is something going on between the battery positive/fuse and the brake light switch. i've already changed the fuse, and the horn and turn signals which work off the same fuse still work. i dont see any breaks in the wiring harness under the dash either. these lights were working before and i dont know what would have changed... any suggestions before i pull out what remains of my hair???
  10. the bulb is good. i tried it in a different socket, and it worked. would i still get 12V at the brake light switch if there was a break in the harness between the switch and the bulb? im still learning electrics, but i thought if the circuit was not complete (i.e. broken wire) it would not read any voltage at all...?
  11. hey guys, im resurrecting an old thread so i dont have to make a new one. the OP never posted his fix, so im hoping someone else can. Im having an issue where all my lights are working except for my brake lights.. Even the night time lights turn on which is the same bulb as the brake light. i've checked power through the brake switch under the dash, like its shown in Phixius' post, and im getting 12.84V through the switch, but no brake lights. From the wiring diagram it looks like the only parts of the circuit are the fuse, switch light bulbs and some green/yellow wires. all of which seem to be ok. the bulb is new, and the grounds at the tail lights look good. if im getting 12.84V through the switch does that mean the circuit is ok? what could be the issue?
  12. When it turns out successful like this mini project did, i dont mind having limited options since i like trying to get the original stuff working again. when those projects go south though, its a pain in the ass! Is that really all there is to it? damn, i wish i had asked the question before i put the meter back in.. lol
  13. Next thing im working on is front suspension. Im pretty low in the front, and i'd like to keep it that way, but the KYB gas-a-justs cant handle it. i installed some new ones in march and they blew this weekend. I just bought some new shocks (same brand/type) but im going to go a little further with this and have some custom shock mounts made up that will be taller than the stock ones. i have a local fabricator through work that can make them up for me, so i need to put a CAD drawing together to make it happen. Then its a matter of cutting the old ones out and welding the new ones in. Not me of course, i cant weld like that yet, but friends with welders work just as well to get the job done. I'll keep the updates on the progress on this, but im thinking of keeping something close to the original design, and just raising the top mounting point about 2" above stock to give the shock more space for travel. since its a bit taller and there will be more unbraced length, im thinking of making the metal about 1/16" to 1/8" thicker than stock. Even if it is overkill structurally, it will help in the event i blow shocks again so i dont punch through the mounts like it did before. I'm a civil engineer by trade, so im fairly comfortable with the concept, but if anyone has suggestions on a design, feel free to chime in!
  14. Seems i made some good progress this weekend! i cleaned out the idle jets and retuned the carb. I gave it a little more gas in the A/F mixture and adjusted the idle and it seems to have fixed the problem of cutting out when coming to a stop. also fixed some more electrical issues! i used the link posted earlier on to do some diagnosis on my combo meter and found a few problems. http://community.ratsun.net/topic/30917-combination-meter-521/?hl=%2Bcombo+%2Bmeter. I had two broken traces which were causing the lights to not work, so i fixed those up and now the lights work! I also got the temp and gas gauge (almost) working. I originally thought there was only one voltage regulator in the truck (in the engine compartment), but there is a second one that is mounted to the back of the combo meter. I took that one off the back of the meter and it had a broken trace, which was an easy fix. That got the temp and gas working on the bench, but the gas still didnt work when installed in the truck. So i crawled under the truck and followed the wires leading from the fuel sending unit and found that the power wire was cut in two spots! i took out the broken section and spliced in some new wires and it almost works! The gauge works but only goes to 1/4 full. It reads accurately under 1/4 full but any more and it will only show up to 1/4 full and thats it. I'll see what i can find to fix it, but for now im content with a working temp gauge and a half working gas gauge. Back of combo meter. took the photo after i fixed the traces: fixed traces on combo meter. not the prettiest since i had trouble getting the solder to stick.. but it works, and i covered the ends with liquid electrical tape so it wont make contact with anything. fixed trace on the voltage regulator: Working lights! In person, you can see the fuel gauge a bit better, and you can see the entire speedo. stupid iphone
  15. Just to be sure, the idle jet is the idle mixture screw itself, correct? The same screw i use to adjust the idle, i just unscrew that completely from the carb and spray something in the hole that it was in to get all the crap out (either canned air or WD-40 with the thin red nozzle). Would it be good to do the same thing with the air/fuel adjustment screw?
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