thestrange

Sorry for the double post. my phone goofed up.

My axle is one piece. unless i can just remove the gears in the pumpkin, i have not really worked on any axles but im not afraid to start.lol. ill look at the tag today, thank you.

My axle is one piece. unless i can just remove the gears in the pumpkin, i have not really worked on any axles but im not afraid to start.lol. ill look at the tag today, thank you.

So the PO of my 82 720 2wd welded the rear diff, I have searched for possible swaps but I won't have my welder back until late summer sometime. I know the 4 runner will swap but requires me to fab the 720 chassis, I just need a direct swap. clearly I would want another 720 rear diff, but sadly my local yard has none. They do have an abundance of d21's, will the axle just bolt up to my truck? Thanks all in advance :-)

i went through the same damn thing with my z22 720. it came down to rust! i pulled the cap and rotor, and the rest of all the bits off the dizzy. then sanded the rust off the shaft, no problems since. i thought for sure the icm went bad, but it was tested 3 times.

ok, cool. I wonder why sites like autozone have different prices for the lower left and right sides. oh well.

from what I gather the upper ball joints are the same, but the lower differ from driver to passenger side. Is that correct? I am getting ready to make an internet order and just want to make sure I have that rite.

It appears to be the 32/36 DGEV. It will also sputter when the secondary opens (most likely clogged jet?) I fiddled with the choke a little by cleaning the wire contact, and making sure the spring inside was clean. Then I put it exactly back the way it was. Should I try adjusting the choke housing, to see if that's the issue? I also plan on gutting and cleaning the carb when I get some cash, can I just get a weber gasket kit from autozone or Napa?

I'll have to poke around the carb tomorrow. thanks for all the feed back.

It's the z22 with a weber carb, not sure which model. When i first start it, it idles at 800-900 rpms. its only after i drive it for a while and its warmed up, that the idles at 1700-2k rpms. Only then will it try to run after the keys off.

I also have the same lone relay. when i was diagnosing my spark issues awhile back, i was noticing that relay would click when i was sending a positive jumper to either coil. I just raised an eyebrow and moved on lol. It seemed to be working fine so i didn't investigate further.

Now that i have my truck running reliably, i am having another small issue. i can drive all day long with no problems, but when i shut off my truck it will chug for 5-10sec with the key off. it also has a high idle after it's warmed up. the idle is probably from a vacuum leak, that i know. but what would make it keep running after its shut off?

thanks all, tomorrow if its not raining to bad im going to pull the starter and double check all the grounds. I went to start it today it rotated once and now i just hear the solenoid click.

My new to me 82 720. The PO put in 4" blocks out back, removed the bump stops in front and slammed the torsion bars. I had to raise the front a tad. The PO also created the lovely paint scheme as well, it'll be repainted asap.lol

Ok thank you. when i had the starter out, i hooked it straight to the battery with jumper cables tapping it with the positive in short bursts. i did that about 15 times making sure to do it quickly to simulate starting the truck, it didn't get hot, or get stuck. i realise out of truck there is no resistants against the starter, ill swap the starter when i get sonera cash. thanks again for the fast reply.