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genkiracing

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  • Location
    Colorado
  • Cars
    510, 350z
  • Interests
    SCCA Club Racing, Drift

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  1. FWIW I tried the Pertronix setup competitively for a season. I didn't dyno, but telemetry showed my final/top speed before breaking zones was consistently lower than previous years on all tracks in all weather. That would be consistent with what @distributorguy mentioned. However, I did notice better throttle response when transitioning out of sharper corners. esp. going from light maintenance throttle to WOT. The engine just seemed to "fire better" in that first moment of mashing on the gas. Those observations could obviously be due to a variety of other things (driver attitude?), other small things changed on the car as well throughout the season... But, thinking back a few years, I thought I'd give my seat-of-the-pants account. :)
  2. I'm glad someone dredged this up. I was thinking of putting in the matched pair, Pertronix 91741 Ignitor II + PerTronix 45001 Flame-Thrower II 45,000 Volt 0.6 ohm Coilinto the 510. I thought having the high power coil over the stock coil/balast setup might help smooth out the roughness I get between 6800 and 7100 rpm. Currently, I'm still running points, btw. Any thoughts on other different or better options?
  3. I'm so glad someone brought this up. I have been thinking of doing this project on my own 510 (L16 single weber 32/26). My concept was to run a single duct from a headlight through some kind of inline fliter to a plenum. My big concern is that too much ram air pressure or too restrictive piping could somehow affect the venturi flow and mess up fuel draw. Anyone know about this? I tried to do some back-of-the-napkin math to figure out a good diameter for the tube and concluded that at ~120mph at WOT and 7500rpm then a 2" pipe would flow pretty close to the 100k cc / sec the engine needs. In other words any inlet bigger than 2" will produce positive pressure at that speed. However at low speed and higher rpm, like the top of 3rd, there is a loss and the engine has to suck air through the restrictive tube. Anyways I arrived at 3" being a good pipe size as I want to lean towards a little over-pressure with no restriction at low speed high rpm. Looking around I found that Redline has an adapter and plenum with a 3" inlet (part 99010.357) http://www.carburetion.com/products/productdetails.aspx?part=99010.357 And Spectre has an inline 3" fliter (part SPE-9833) http://www.summitracing.com/parts/spe-9833?seid=srese1&gclid=COW7kNDO2bsCFWMV7Aod4mkApw Does anyone have any actual experience throwing together a ram system like this? Any comments on the parts/brands I came up with? If so I'd really love to hear about it. If not.... maybe I'll just build it and try it out. And ya, as someone pointed out earlier in this thread, I'm not looking to make mad gainz. I'm looking to shave fractions (or dare I hope seconds?) off my lap times, at least on the straight sections over 80mph where the little 1600 starts to struggle to get to redline. ^_^
  4. Just got hold of a beautiful nose cone for this box that I won't be using. I'll throw that on shortly, so the only thing to make this a runner is new seals/gaskets and a helicoil or rethread on the bell-housing bolt holes. Still $2,000
  5. Just saw this. Congrats man, and welcome. ^_^
  6. Those look too good to take to the track! It's a little more than I wanted to spend. I'll think about it. Thanks.
  7. I'm just testing the waters to see if anyone is interested in picking this up used. We are looking to upgrade to a full blown alloy racing box, so I wondered if anyone wanted my old one. It's a Ford Rocket 4speed long-tail box with an almost new Quaife rally gearset. Straight cut with syncros. Ratios: 2.390 1.690 1.340 1.000 At the moment it has been drained and then cleaned inside and out with solvent. I want to sell it without the shift lever or yoke. Here are the fixes to bring it back to great condition: - shift lever (not included) ~$100 - output shaft yoke (not included) ~$100? - The nose-cone/bearing-retainer is cracked and needs to either be welded and sanded or replaced. ~$150 new - The nose cone ground a little notch in the input shaft, so if you really want perfect you could replace, but it won't affect anything. - The bolt holes to the bell housing are stripped so it needs either non-standard bolts or to be re-threaded. - New seals ~$35 Taylor sells these things new for $4630 http://www.taylor-race.com/part.cfm?id=4664&category=Transmissions&subcategory1=Quaife&subcategory2=Rocket I am looking to get 2k plus shipping. If anyone is interested let me know and I'll take some pics and post them.
  8. Just like in the pic. Well packaged with padding and zip tied to a wood base. +1 trading with ATP.
  9. WTB R160 transmission with clutch LSD and a 3.7 or 3.9 final gear.

  10. If anyone has another sitting around... let me know.
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