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SupDoc

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SupDoc last won the day on January 24 2023

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About SupDoc

  • Birthday 01/31/1974

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Rio Vista, CA
  • Cars
    72 2dr 510, 74 260z2+2, 81 Delorean
  • Interests
    Cars, music and homebrewing.
  • Occupation
    Construction

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  1. I just brought home this non-running 1974 260z 2+2 on a trailer. I purchased it from a local family that had it in a storage container since 1991. It has a lot of surface corrosion and, at some point, rodents tried to eat various parts of the engine and made a nest in the splash pan area. So far, I've been prepping the engine before I attempt to crank it. Luckily, it does rotate freely. I changed the oil, filter and spark plugs. Plus, squirted a little bit of mystery oil in each cylinder. Check out this old filter. The coolant system was bone dry, so before flushing it, I hooked up my shop vac and tried to suck out as much loose rust as it could. The brake drums were very corroded, but didn't look too bad after bead blasting them. I also had the insides re-machined at the local Napa Auto. I decided to re-use them, since you can no longer buy the OEM aluminum drums. I'm not sure what this relay is, but it will obviously need to get replaced. This splash plate is also in bad shape. I don't know if it is worth cleaning up and re-installing.
  2. This guy was designing a rotex supercharger kit that might be interesting. But hasn't updated the site in a while... https://www.bossadesignengineering.com/products/rotrex-supercharger-kit
  3. I'm getting a small oil leak along the top of the timing cover, where it meets the head, on both sides. I changed the inspection cover gasket in hopes that it was the source of the oil, but no such luck. See pictures below. So, now I'm looking at re-sealing the timing cover, which I'm kicking myself for not doing before the engine was installed. Is it possible to to do this successfully, without removing the oil pan and head? I've read some posts about not using RTV where the head meets the timing cover. Is this a bad idea even with high-temp RTV? Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
  4. When I removed the spark plug, I was able to see that the top few threads were messed up, the ring gasket didn't have a good surface to seal against. I was able to get a copper washer that was wide enough to span the bad area, and it seems to have sealed the leak.
  5. Have you tried contacting a waterjet cutting company? Some of them specialize in cutting glass, like these guys: https://www.swiftglass.com/glass-cutting-waterjet
  6. I'm getting this leak from the #4 cylinder spark plug. I've already checked that the torque is 15 ft-lb. Any other ideas on getting it to seal? How much torque can you put on these spark plugs before you risk stripping the threads?
  7. Installing hood struts was one of the last projects that I wanted to finish before the wintertime slow down. FYI, these are 80 pound struts. If I were to do it again, I would get slightly lighter rated struts, like 70 or 75 pound.
  8. I've taken the 510 out for a few test runs, after getting all the other peripheral equipment attached the to the L20B. It fired up without much trouble, after a few cranks and a shot of starting fluid(that was probably unnecessary, if I had been more patient). I posted the first-start video on the Ratsun facebook group, for anyone interested. Overall, I'm pretty happy with the engine swap. I tried to keep a realistic expectation on what an additional 15 horsepower would feel like, and it just about hits the mark. I was a little worried how the lightened flywheel would feel, but it's nicely responsive. At about 18 pounds, it seems to hit the sweet spot, in my opinion. It was a fun challenge figuring out how to plumb the coolant through the intake manifold and back to the water pump, along with the thermostat bypass coolant line. I purchased small diameter silicone hosing that worked well for this purpose. During the install, I also hooked up new Voltage, Temp, and Pressure gauges, and mounted them under the dash.
  9. Hey Jake, these are some good looking parts. You must be the guy that my friend in Petaluma was telling me about. His name is Scott, he's a machinist that works up in Santa Rosa.
  10. I got the L20B installed, with a little help from a couple of friends. It slid in fairly easy with the transmission jacked up as high as it would go (before hitting the transmission tunnel in the body). Turns out I have an adjustable clutch slave cylinder, which should make it easy dialing in the perfect clutch action...
  11. Cool, I'll give this a try. Just ordered one on Ebay.
  12. So, I finally dropped the L20B into my 510. I slotted the bolt holes in the engine brackets about 1/4", to let it sit lower. But now I can't screw in the oil filter because it hits the bracket. Has anyone else experienced this? Should I just raise that side of the engine enough to clear the filter (and hope the valve cover doesn't rub the hood)?
  13. I've passed the point of no return. The L16 has been pulled out of the 510. I've given the L20B a fresh coat of paint and installed the flywheel and clutch. This is a lightened stock flywheel. There were conveniently located holes around the outside of the flywheel, from the balancing process. I was able to slide a screw into one of these holes and brace it against another screw that I put in the alignment dowel hole, to keep the flywheel from spinning around while i torqued down the bolts. I've installed the new throwout bearing. And slotted and painted the 510 engine mounts, so it can sit about 1/4" lower.
  14. Does this picture show the correct way to route the coolant hose, when bypassing the heater on a L16/L20B? Or should you just plug off both ends (not connect them with a hose)?
  15. I just noticed that Pee-Wee rides his bike past this 510 in big adventure...
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