slowmomiata

no vacuum leaks, bcdd bypassed, egr blocked off, new plugs, wires, and the car starts like a champ, but... idles still high it wont come down, i started playing with the distributor, it wil only run all the way clockwise, it has a serious lack of power vs afm-less, so timing has to be off i imagine so i dremeled the little factory plate on the bottom of the distributor so i could turn it clockwise a little more but the damn matchbox got caught up on the temp sensor plug, is clockwise advance or retard? i am lazy and dont want to go back out in the snow and play anymore and i cant find my timing light so i dont know where timing sits right now lol, and i lost my haynes is the process

ok i have been scouring the net and different forum site, please forgive me, and i have it nailed down to a vacuum leak or the bcdd(boost controlled decel device). tomorrow i am going to go through and replace all my vac lines and then disengage the bcdd, from the sounds of it the bcdd is the likely culprit since now with the original afm plugged back in it idles high around 2000 to 3000 rpms and will not lower even when tapping the gas etc, i am going to recheck my throttle linkage and make sure it isnt overly tight, clean out the tps and afm connections, and hunt around for leaks. my worst fear, which really isnt a fear, is the intake manifold gasket is leaking but i highly doubt it but could happen. i will post results tomorrow, has anyone else on here had that issue, the high idle that refuses to come down?

i did try it today with no luck :/ i did however start loosening the spring for the flapper and got it to kinda work, i loosened it alot and di some pulls here and there, now it surges like it has fuel cut, i am gonna play with the spring tomorrow if it doesnt snow, it only surges under a load though i can have it in neutral and rev but sometimes the throttle will stay at 2000 to 3000 so i tap the gas to get it to fall back to idle, its gonna take some tweaking with that spring and the idle mixture screw but hopefully i can dial it in and not pour fuel out my exhaust anymore

Well all I can find is the n42 manifold just has no egr, are they all the same really?

ya i could probably do that for you tomorrow or saturday, i need to measure anyways when i swap fenders because the passenger side is smashed, i just picked up my spare engines today, one is a usdm 1980 l28 and a usdm 1976 l28, and they both have way more vacuum bs on them, whats the best intake mainfold to use??? a long time ago when i had my 81 turbo i remember something about n42 and the p90 head make a good combo or something, i just want to have the best parts i can for it on it

mine is just a 2 seater, i will try that tomorrow after work, i have done the spring tension loosening before when doing an rx7 afm swap to a miata, but i didnt know the carbon track info, sounds promising, i will post results tomorrow night

Are you talking about adjusting the flapper spring? When I get home and I am not doing this on an iPhone ill search for it

maybe, if i had a spare i would try it

i tried to sell it without ever trying to turn a wrench on it, then the buyer fell through and that lit a fire under my ass haha i had to get it running, and it does run... just puffs black like a chipped diesel. has anyone ever had an afm problem like this??? i have tried 3 of them and none helped

another question is why isnt there a write up on wiring in a fuse block to get rid of fusible links! am i going to have to attempt this myself and if so... ill need help with this z, i have only ever done the conversion in an rx7

isnt a clean pic, but at least my steering wheel is on the RIGHT side lol

even my car has the spare tire rust lol, must be a 280 thing, my buddies 350 swapped 76 has no frame rails at all and still drives straight so youll be good, just wire whell and primer, if it took 30+ years to rust that much it will take more to get worse :)

i missed that step in the fair lady...

and i guess thats my bad that i didnt check to see if the plugs were tightened.... i guess you cant really trust anyone you buy a car from????

old pics, but it is a little cleaned up on the inside, it runs and drives now i am just having issues, today it did not want to start at all and after i finally got it to barely idle i was peaking around the engine bay and about shit myself... the po didnt tighten the spark plugs all the way and i was watching air/fuel mixture ooze out the spark plug holes... i tightened them all down, restarted it, got it to idle a little better and then revved the hell out of her. once its warmed up it runs great, still is running with no afm, i have butt loads more torque and power with all 6 plugs tightened lol night and day difference. i can tell its running extremely rich without the afm but with an afm as soon as i tap the gas it dies instantly. so its still afm less and i can see black puffs out the exhaust i am pretty clueless on where to go now, and is it ok to run the fuel pump hotwired so its constantly full bore?