Dzaster

I am running lowering blocks. iirc I've got 2" under there. I have pictures in my Project thread. JJ, I was told the same on the spring rate. I also had my spring's eyes flipped for more low. I bottom to the cut down bumpstops when I have a load and aired down below 40psi but it's too be expected as I have sound system and battery relocated to rear. The car rides tones better than most lowered cars I've owned or driven.

That's really what I did. I'm not certain who's spring it's based off of but I'm pretty sure it was the same specs as Son Of Datsun Guy ordered as my front mounting holes on Springs were much larger than the stock. Spring rate and ride health I do like though. However than may also be the air shocks changing up the spring rate too.

http://www.flex-form.com/ Dudes name is Mark.

Got them working using the above wiring for swapping in standard 5-pin relay. I had R/B wire switched with B/R wire. After confirming nothing broke, and cleaning an regreasing figured the switch wasnt the problem. Put in four Hella H4's with aftermarket adapter harness 2/ built in relays. Have all 4 lights on low beam as well as high. Lots better.

They're pinned to a white plug. Don't mind the missing red/white wire I was in process of removing the wires to terminate to 5 pin relay when I realized I should probably take a pic. And after some thought I think I will just go with a full set of Hella H4's and fully rewire the headlights. Are the parking lights switched on with a negative signal like headlights?

Anyone have both switch and relay in working condition for a '70 510 they wanna sell? If so, lmk.

Yes green/blue pair at the relay plug have power when switch at parking only, low beam, and high beam setting. Anf yes all parking lights work. I tried to replace the 510 relay using this put together by a John Thiessen--so its written at bottom of paper(cropped out) When wired using this I had high light configuration while switch to. low beam setting--all 4 lights on. But when I switched on high beams all lights turned off. So basically had no low beam setting. Most all other wiring diagrams seemed to work off of stock relay. Not sure if i mentioned already but I did clean and regrease the headlight switch in-cabin when thiz first happened. No change. Wonder if the switch is bad? Seems pretty basic in design and nothing looked broke so figured was good.

No pakas with me, perhaps the PO., but they worked fine up until recent. So tested the low lights 3 prongs and they all show 12V when I put it to regular low lights. From what you're saying one should switch to ground. Thats not the case though. When i switch to high beams the top terminal of 3 prong goes mV, nearly zero V. Aat same time when I test the inner high inner lights both prongs remain at around 10V. So i overlooked something. The inner(high) lights dont work at all. When I switch on highs then the outer(low) lights come on. Just little more info on happenings.

On my wagon the low beams started working intermittently until not where it doesn't work at all. High beams still work. I opened up relay cleaned contacts and still low not working. Lights work as I hook them up straight to a spare battery pos and neg. When DMM'ing the low beam pins I get roughly 12V on both terminals. Red/blue wire is supposed to be negative I'm reading. That's not the case though. Perhaps the relay has an internal short I can't easily see?

Ah!!! Part of the problem was I've not be searching using "pinion oil seal". Thanks guys.

Anyone have a part number for the 510 Wagon H190 differential seal? Or link to part?

Anyone have the part number for the wagon's pinion seal?

Plates out of storage, car totally legal and have been running the wagon ratty and hard for a few weeks now. It's been an absolute blast and menace to drive. I'm glad I scored this car instead of what I originally was gunning for--classic Toyota. Here's a vid of quick rolling 2nd 3rd. Didn't really floor it as at the time of this vid I still had stock 240sx clutch setup, slipped when gas was mashed. Just swapped in a newly tuned DOHC KA ECU from R.S. Enthalpy to replace the SOHC JWT ECU. It runs, but since SOHC don't have knock sensor and I haven't had chance to install one, I'm needing either a retune or to install a knock sensor. Going to try both. There are a few benefits with this new ECU, it adds Nissan Consult capability for datalogging and troubleshooting, can add knock sensor(although not so sure how useful it will be), but mostly it has dual map function. So I currently have one map tuned for pump only and one for pump/methanol injection. Snow Performance Stage 2 kit. Got an awesome deal on this kit and all it needed was new tubing. Had to change the clutch from the stock 240sx KA to "White Bunny" kit by using D21 clutch kit on Fidanza 280Z flywheel. So far, its been good. Also finished up the rear disc conversion by installing a hand brake. Contemplated a line-lock for a while but its been said to be unreliable used as a handbrake. Wound up using Lokar cables with 280ZX handbrake lever with some random hardware to tie it all in. Lever needs a boot and trim but its all functional. Now need to get on the body.

I used the Maxima rear caliper, although on a wagon. I wound up settling on the Lokar EC-80FU cables. With some creativity and depending how picky you are they can be easily made to work lots of applications--interior, exterior, handbrake, under dash pull type, etc.

My bad, I see it now. He said SLAVE, not MASTER like I originally thought. I'm not using the NISMO. Already sold it.