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Member Since 24 Sep 2008
Offline Last Active Jun 14 2018 08:02 PM

Topics I've Started

Need pics of 620 tension rod installed

14 May 2018 - 07:28 PM

As the title states I need pics of the control arm side and frame side with bushings and washers. I accidentally deleted the pictures I took when I disassembled them. 


Here's the way I have them, the control arm side seems right-ish, but the frame side does not. I referenced car parts manual  but it didn't seem to jive with the parts I had.


Should be obvious, but

Control arm:




Tie rod with no zirc fittings

11 April 2018 - 09:04 AM

I recently purchased a set of tie rods for my 73 620 from RockAuto. Got the ACDelco ones and they came with nylocks instead of castle nuts AND they have no zirc fittings or even holes drilled/tapped for zirc fittings.
Have nylocks is a little different but I don’t think it’s that big of a deal. No zirc fittings strikes me as a little odd though. They seem sufficiently greased (though it’s hard to tell since there’s boots over the joint), but I’d like the option of adding my own grease and also being able to add grease in the future.

https://www.rockauto...r & outer),7425

620 tension rod bushing comparison

03 April 2018 - 02:28 PM

In the process of rebuilding my front suspension I've hit a bit of an obstacle with the TC rod bushings. I've been trying to stick with rubber bushings because I don't really feel like snapping a rod, problem is no one seems to make a replacement for the 620. So I bought some 720 rubber bushings but the ID is a bit too big. I bought some Moog poly bushings and drilled 6 holes in the perimeter but they still seem quite stiff. So here's some pics so y'all can help me decide.


The whole gang. Top to bottom: 720 rubber bushing, 720 bushing cut in half, Moog poly bushing with holes, OG bushing



720 bushing on strut rod (quite a gap)



Poly bushing on rod (toite like a tiger)



Squeeze test: OG


720 rubber





Clearly the poly is quite a bit stiffer, but with the holes is it still too stiff?

Looking for clarification on flipping the center link for a KA24DE from a Frontier

14 March 2018 - 02:55 PM

I’m slowly doing prep work for an eventual KA swap, part of which is rebuilding my 40 year old suspension. I figured while I had everything out I’d flip the center link to prepare for a KA swap.
My question is that I swore I read that if you used a KA from a Frontier that flipping the center link wasn’t necessary but of course now I can’t find the comment/thread that I read that in. Would it be best to just go ahead and flip the center link since I have everything out and have already purchased the new inserts? I don’t have an engine yet so there’s a possibility that I won’t go with the Frontier (tho it’s my plan to use that motor /trans)
There’s really no downside to having the center link flipped right? If I don’t need to and I did, no big. If I DO need to and I didn’t, that would suck lol

Airdam indecisiveness

19 February 2018 - 03:09 PM

I bought this airdam from Steroid several years ago and wasn't able to get it to fit right, so it sat on a shelf for a long time. Recently I dug it out to give it another try along with a Camaro chin spoiler and a MK1 duckbill.


Steroid airdam, I still really like it but I cant quite get it to fit and I don't especially want to bondo the crap out of the front end.



Camaro lip. I really like it but it's too wide. If I use it I'll likely cut about 4" from the center and bond it back together.




MK1 duckbill. I really like the way this one fits, the contours match pretty well and I like the styling of it. It's just a little too short. I'm not sure if its ABS or what, but there's a local plastics place nearby that can likely tell me and supply me with options for making a patch.




Opinions? Anyone have experience with any of them?