Kathos

Hey Mike, Look what i found. https://drive.google.com/file/d/1fGRgTpQzG420STqs5HerD3WgRPnt78v7/view?usp=sharing It is right by the firewall seal above the left side of the clutch pedal. Interestingly enough, the car wouldn't start with the tach in series unless I bypassed the resistor

I dont know how you remember as much as you do but I am thoroughly impressed! Ill keep you updated

Interesting! Probably why the previous owner took the EGR bulb out when I bought my car at 33000 miles. I think I have a game plan for wiring the SSS cluster. I cant for the life of my find the in-line resistor on the BG cable. My BG cable starts at the distributor then it Y's off, 1 leg to the neg coil, the other through the fender panel into the firewall and I am assuming into the tach. Were is this resistor?

I have a few questions. 1) The blue wire that goes to the speedo. "Odometer switch" <- whats it do? (Drive counter Detector?) 2) The other BG wire behind the cluster that doesnt go to the tach. "AMP" <- whats it do? See attached Wiring Diagram for 76 710 cluster https://drive.google.com/file/d/1V_cQV-nfT1FppC9fleIEIB3mB7-TL-Xp/view?usp=sharing

The 74sss tach has 4 wires coming from it (Y, B, BW,BW) . The two BW wires connect to BW , BG. I believe that this tach needs to be connected in series like the 510 4 wire tachs. Does that sound right?w Also, do you have access to a wiring diagram in color?

Hey Mike. Ive seen those before. That is a really cool and simple option. Can you tell me, is your tac a 3 wire or a 4 wire? Does the fat BG wire with the male spade plug into it?

Hey Everyone. I recently scored an SSS cluster (with harness) from a 74 SSS model from New Zealand. The dream would be to get the cluster working correctly with all my instruments but I am noticing quite a few differences in the wiring between the two harnesses. Does anyone have a wiring diagram for a 74sss or a 76sss? Has anyone documented this before? I'm trying to decide which harness I should modify and which I should leave alone. Pictures attached in drive. https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/10uUALTKOod60Tj9t2huQuI4AZyZ9ePd2?usp=sharing

Keep an open mind Mike. Us 710 guys gotta stick together Unrelated, this was from a few years back at the Pittsburgh Vintage Grand Prix. I found it recently and I figured I'd share https://www.conceptcarz.com/z26875/datsun-710.aspx

My datsun has 15 x 8 +12 back 15x 7 + 0 Front.

I tried starting the car with the two pump method and its started right away every time since. I'm not saying the issue is gone, but it's not a problem when the car starts up correctly. Even this morning when it was below freezing. If it starts giving me issues again, Ill keep a starter rebuild and a hot start relay in my back pocket. Thanks for the help fellas

Crash, I think you are correct in that my terminology was wrong. And I am going to try the two pump method Mike explained to see if I am simply false starting it. Being that my starter solenoid voltage input is above 10v, I would think that's enough. I have researched the hotstart method and I'm planning on going that route if the input voltage becomes an issue. From what I read, starters have a mechanical safety mechanism that prevents them from staying engaged when the engine starts spinning the flywheel faster than the starter can. This is to protect the starter. https://www.howacarworks.com/basics/how-the-starting-system-works I'll report back after I give Mikes methods a shot

Hi all, I'm a little confused what the problem might be so I'm hoping for some help. I finished my 5speed swap recently and put my automatic starter back on. I'm not going to claim this starter is perfect but I did bench test it and it seemed to operate strong (solenoid and motor). When I go to start the car, the solenoid engages, the motor spins the flywheel, the engine cranks 1 or 2 times, then the solenoid disengages but the starter motor spins until I turn release the key off crank. I read on a different forum that if the flywheel taps the back of the starter gear teeth, the bendix is designed to disengage. Does my starter think my engine is starting prior to actually starting? I do pump the gas pedal when cranking if that matters. I tested my battery while cranking it was around 11-11.5v. My starter solenoid read around 10.5v-10v

Its been a long time since shes been on the road but what a beautiful time to finally get her out of the garage.

I took it out for a ride yesterday. It feels great! I noticed a little bit of whining in 5th gear that may or may not be a good thing. Now that its on the ground I may double check the transmission fluid level. It pretty much ate all of the 2 quarts I threw at it when it was on stands so maybe its got a tad too much. (Ac-delco 10-4014) Overall it shifts awesome, both up and down. Clutch feels good. Now everything just needs fine tuning.

So I hear the click you are talking about. In every gear except 5th and reverse. I hope that's okay