sreams

I'm cleaning out the garage and have some bits available if anyone is interested. I sold my RL411 several months ago. I had performed a swap from the auto transmission to a 5-speed from a roadster. I still have much of what is needed to attach a BW35 to an R16 motor. Bellhousing Flex plate Torque converter Just pay me whatever it's worth to ya and it's yours. Located in Sacramento, CA. -Scott

I agree that the car is fixable. It's just something I can't take on right now. Hopefully, whoever ends up with it will make it whole again. -Scott

Well... big bummer last week. I was driving near where my wife works. I looked over for a second to see if her car was there, and when I looked back, the truck in front of me had suddenly stopped to turn without using a signal. I hit the brakes hard to stop quickly. The brakes worked for a split second and then the pedal went to the floor and I had no brakes at all. The front of the car is now crunched. Got the car towed home... and yep, confirmed that the brakes no longer work at all. Anyway, this was a -really- nice RL411. Ran perfectly. Nice 5-speed conversion. Really nice custom upholstery. Beautiful paint. Was even featured on a RockAuto magnet. So here's where it stands now: The front grill, fenders, and hood were crunched. The inner fenders are also damaged. The front bumper was -not- touched at all, and is in beautiful condition. There appears to be no frame damage, since the impact was sustained above the bumper. I have one very nice spare driver's fender that goes with the car. The driver's fender was shifted back a little bit, and the driver's door rubs it when you try to open it. The door appears to be totally straight, however. The rest of the body is perfectly fine, with little to no rust and -very- straight panels. The rear bumper is straight but needs to be rechromed. The engine looks to be fine, other than the bent fan. I expect that it will run perfectly again with a new fan, without the radiator blocking the fan, and with a new fuel filter (the nice glass one broke). This motor was running like a sewing machine before this happened. The five speed works perfectly. I had the transmission crossmember modified to support it (see pics). The only issue is the transmission has always had a very slow fluid leak up near the shifter. It is a later Borg Warner 5-speed from a roadster. The custom exhaust was just done a couple of months ago. The car is slightly lowered on roadster springs and has lowering blocks in the rear. The upper ball joints are brand new. The lower ball joints have been very recently cleaned and re-booted, and are in excellent shape with no slop. Front shocks are brand new KYB Gas-A-Just. The car rolls and steers just fine after the damage. It has really cool alloys from a '79-'80 710 in excellent condition. The upholstery is really nice. Black and white with piping in the same color as the car. Carpet is nice. Headliner is nice. The gauge cluster is very nice. I have a box of extra parts as well. I know I can get more by parting this car, but my preference is to not eat up my limited space with it while that happens. I'm open to offers to take the whole thing. It is located in Sacramento, CA. Send me a private message if you'd like to see the car or shoot me an offer. Before: After:

Actually... my RL411 made it as a RockAuto magnet. #116 near the bottom here: https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.10150092685593348.276012.92559608347 They also chose my BMW 3.0CS for another magnet. #115 right next to it.

Does the car with the AC have a dual-groove crankshaft pulley? If so, can you take a picture of it and post it? Also, if the compressor bracket is still on the motor, a picture of that would be great as well. -Scott

That AC setup is very cool. Looks like a factory or dealer option. In your under hood shot, it looks like a large chunk of the inner fender on the driver's side was cut away to make room for a compressor, which is now missing. I wonder if they actually made that big cut at the dealer. Crazy.

http://www.datsunparts.com/Cooling Part 1506 and 1768. The gaskets are visibly different.

Also... Do either of the roadster water pump gaskets work? If so, early or late?

When using a roadster water pump to repair one from an RL411, which one do you use? Most information I've found indicates that there is an earlier and a later water pump for the r16 roadsters.

Nice from several feet away. Not so nice how they painted right over the trunk lock. Makes you wonder what other basic prep was skipped. -S

I just returned two sets of brake pads in a row to Autozone thinking they were manufactured incorrectly. According to this, the pad material is supposed to be cut at an angle: https://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=2044522&cc=1378065 How does this make any sense? If this is correct, which way do they go on? (two are angled one way and two the other way) -Scott

It's not 1:1. If the compressed height of the spring (and thus the shock) drops by 1", the ride height of the car drops by more than 1". Keep that in mind when choosing a shock.

Okay... here it is with stock Roadster springs and 1" lowering blocks from Summit: I love it at this height. Looks "right" without looking slammed for my taste. -Scott

You're probably right. Unfortunately, the hinge pins have no room to come out with the hinge attached to the door. Grinding the rivets would be difficult because the part of the rivet that would be ideal to grind is deep inside the door. -S

Unfortunately they are not pins. They're rivets. So one end will have to be grinded off. The part that is easiest to grind off happens to be inside the door, and there isn't a lot of access to it. I've started at the outsides of the rivets with a drill. We'll see how it goes. It looks like there is enough clearance that I can go with bolts once these are removed. -Scott