sr311det

Don't remember over three years ago. Shipping is pretty expensive coming in at 74.00 dollars ground. Thanks

Up for sale is a 2004 Subaru WRX LSD differential with 4:11 gears and is a vicious center section. The CV's are 280zx outer cv with a 2004 Subaru inner cv. The axles started life as a 280zx axle and then shortened and respined by Dutchman's up in Portland. They have new boots and grease and come with ARP hardware for the outer CV. I have had this in my car of about 3 years and worked great. The outer flanges are 280zx companion flanges that bolt on to all stock 510 a-arms. The CV's were powdercoated a gunmetal color. The driveshaft flange had been swapped to utilize the stock 510 bolt pattern. This is 100% bolt in set up for a stock 510. I'm building the exact same set up but utilizing a R180 out of a sti. Feel free to email me at straw_e510@hotmail.com Price: 500 + shipping and I'm located in Corvallis, Oregon.

Looking at some of the pics for the pluming on the cold side you should use a hump hose to give your engine more freedom to move so your pluming won't crack. Also on your cold pipe I would have utilized a 90 elbow to tighten the bend up on the bottom and then get a 2.5in donut for the top part. You would have to get a 2.75 to 2.5 trasition hose for the throttle body but 2.5in bends are much nicer to work with and cheaper. This is a Donut I found for my project. 2.5in aluminum 6061. You will need to weld the inside seem together after you cut what you need out of it. http://www.racepartsolutions.com/products.asp?cat=137

So is he not planing on not having the external wastegate back into the exhaust. If that the case it is going to be very load. I assumed that he was going to just put a block off plate on the external wastegate flange since the manifold works well for him. I was thinking that because his turbo in the pictures is a T25/28 with a internal wastegate. Really there is not a reason to use a external wastegate at his turbo size.

When looking at your down pipe I have concerns with the waste gate not opening all the way and forcing air into the turbine wheel that will cause turbulence in the turbo and down pipe. This will slow spool up and may even cause a fluttering sound. There are lots of different ways to fix this. A divorced down pipe is one way but much harder to fabricate.This is what I did on my 510. The easiest I would guess is to open up the flange on the wastegate side and let the air transition slowly. Similar to this.

I'm going to be doing a S15 SR20DET.

SOLD Thanks to everyone

Complete Turn-Key VG33E 5-speed Swap SOLD

$475 listed in the title. They have never been on a car in the U.S.A. They were bought in Japan not on ebay and I was planning on putting on my car but have decided not to. They are not a direct bolt on part unless you have a RHD Bluebird Coupe. They do look very good on US spec 510's. It does not come with the relay box. I would recommend upgrading to a newer style box in the after market as they are very hard to find in good working condition. The mustang ones look to be a very good candidate.

I have decided to sell a set of coupe tail lights. These lights are in good condition. There are a couple things wrong such as the Driver side lens is cracked but in working condition. There is also a small crack on the Passenger side at the corner in the chrome. Other then that they are in great condition. The plastic housings are in nearly perfect condition as well as the wiring and sockets. All of the gaskets are intact as well as the mounting studs. The reverse lens are still clear. I will be sorry to see these go but I really don't want to do the work to make them work in my car. Feel free to call me at 1-971-244-3093 Or email me at eric.straw@spriso.com

Ok tried to send send to send you email twice and did not work. Might want to take a look at the post to make sure it is correct. I have a lot of High res photos. Email me straw_e510@hotmail.com Thanks Eric

510er, The headlights are like I said a 745 BMW headlight taken apart. I then proceed with striping the lens off which is not easy. Heat helps. Hot glass burns! I then bought a clear glass lens off ebay. The way the shoulder is on the new lenses fit poorly so you will have to play with clearances as the reflector part is to tall to fit under the new glass lens. This takes some time and is very frustrating. I then had to modify the bulb by grinding it down and make a retaining to fit the the inside the housing. You might also have to hog out where the bulb sits in housing to make it auto center. After that all you have to do is make a mount to hold the ballast from getting wet and close to the headlight. I decided on right next to the radiator. You will have to modify the headlight buckets also and figure out a way to adjust the headlight. They are a ton of work and a lot of money. Now if you don't go to a HID you dont need to change the lens or modify the bulb and housings. Then you will use a standard H4 bulb with the projector and they work well. You will still need to modify the buckets and make them adjust but that is it. I know it is hard to understand my info as I really can't document well. I in no way did it the only way to so if you really want a set you should buy a set of used set of ballast and bulbs and the housings and start playing with the parts. The housings are very delicate so be care full. Hope I answered you questions. Eric

Rear Brakes are z32 calipers modified from a 200sx bracket and rotor as they are non vented as I didnt want the weight. I put some machined spacers inside the piston so I could use the rotor. The down fall to my setup is no ebrake and alot of work. The rear end is a r160 out of a 2004 WRX auto with 4:11 gears. The cv's are a custom set up as they use a combinations of Subaru and Nissan parts and custom machined axles and is very labor intensive. But they seem to work really well. The picture of the rear end is very old and is the old ext system using a 200sx manifold and 2.5 inch. Now I have a 3 individual tubes into a slip on burns collector that goes to 2.25 and then into the Y pipe and to 3 inch. It is a pain to package and is really hard to get quiet but really flows well. 3inch is way beyond what is need for the HP out put. As for the engine positionis is close but not crazy close as the heater valves are a challenge. If I would do it again I would move it back about a inch to make it crazy close. Headlights are 745 BMW DOT housings that have been modified with clear glass and use a g35 HID buld and ballast. Work amazing Thanks Eric

Ok, So the front suspension is 200sx front struts with 1" bump stops and 5 way adj. inserts. It has heim joints on the lower control arms and top camber plats that are rubber isolated. The TC rods are machined down for more caster and still needs a little more. A 1" front sway bar to help the sway. Thats pretty much it and it works pretty well. It is nothing special. The torque numbers are kind of in the air as I have not made it to a dyno yet and I'm using the 200sx intake and have very free flowing headers that will mover the torque to a more usable position and have a HP increase at the top end. The seat of pants feel is very strong. :D The cams defiantly make it have a lump in idle but I think I have some more tuning. I have not had any problems with the ECU or management system but I also think that is where more power is to be had. I will have a better idea after it has been on the dyno. I pretty much have no time as I'm working crazy hours to get my roadster off to paint. I will try to get a some pictures up and loaded of the roadster in the next few weeks. Hope this answers your questions

thisismatt, Lowering a 510 is very hard if you want to do it the right way. My car is about as low as I want it for street driving as the car squats a significant amount with the amount of torque. You will need to clearance where the drive axle travel to lower the car any more also. IF you plan on running the stock axles you will have a significant vibration from the U joints binding also if you to lower your car without more modification. You as a driver need to set your car up for the type of driving that you prefer. I prefer the cars handling over the stance for this car. Another consideration is the clearence for the ext. on speed bumps and what other stuff. Also I'm using a 17 inch wheel which gives me a overall heigth that is higher then a low profile 15 inch. The car is pretty low in all considerations of driving and suspension setup. hope I answered your question. Eric