fiveoneO

Mishimoto is definitely on the cheaper side of things. If they give you a free replacement fan, I'd go ahead and use it, but if not, I'd look into a different brand. You could also try adding some Water Wetter. Its an additive you add to your coolant. I've used it in the past and it definitely lowered my coolant temps.

A little toe in might help, but your biggest problem, like Icehouse said, is your scrub radius. 510's like a positive offset wheel.

Supposedly you can get more torque to the wheels by starting the truck in gear. Its so if you're out wheeling and get stuck, the extra torque can hopefully get you unstuck.

I've never rebuilt a KA before, so I don't really have an answer to your piston question. But years ago I rebuilt a Toyota 4AGE using a cheap set of pistons and that engine had some real noisy piston slap. Something to think about.

Higher octane will allow you to run more spark advance. This may or may not gain you a little bit more power. I'm not too familiar with how the timing on the 8 plug z engines works.

BZT8FS my problem wasn't the wire going to the e-brake, it was one of the wires going to the ignition switch. The bundle of wires runs next to the e-brake handle under the dash and it had rubbed through on the e-brake.

E-brake is the emergency brake/parking brake. Its the T handle to the right of the steering wheel mounted just under the dash.

BZT8FS, the wire I had trouble with ran from the fuse block to the ignition switch(where you put the key in to start your car). That bundle of wires runs right next to the e-brake handle and at some point one of the wires had rubbed through on the e-brake handle and was grounding out. In my case it was easy to find, the wire was really burned up.

If you've disconnected the black/white wire from the fuse block and it still has a short, then I would fallow that wire under the dash and look for damage to it. I had a wire once from the fuse block to the ignition key sort out on the e-brake handle and it caused all kinds of problems.

To my knowledge there are at least 3 different 510 fuse blocks, which would mean there are at least 3 different wiring harnesses, probably more. I think the 68 had its own unique fuse block, I've seen 2 different fuse blocks in 69's and I think all the 70's cars had the same (but there could be more). You can make any fuse block work with any harness, but you'll have to rewire some things. I'd try and find a wiring diagram that matches the harness you have, then you'll know which wires you have to move for the fuse block you have.

Amsoil makes a synchromesh that I've had good luck with in my Honda. Not sure how it would do in a Datsun, but this is what was recommended to me when the GM stuff became no longer available.

I bought a 510 once that had a Z24 in it. It was running a stock style Hitachi carb and the carb was about an inch from the hood. It didn't have any room for an air cleaner.

When checking power on both sides of the fuse, put the probes on the metal clips that hold the fuse and not the fuses themselves. Those clips can get corroded and not pass current. The fuse may show its good, but bower is not getting through the fuse block.

Not wanting to disagree with Datzenmike, but saying a catch can serves no purpose on a street car is incorrect. A well set up catch can will greatly reduce oil build up in the intake manifold and will actually lower the emissions a vehicle produces. Not sure if newer BMWs are set up this way, but In the 90's and early 2000's BMWs had an oil air separator. The oily air from the PCV valve would get swirled around, the oil would drop to the bottom and drain back into the oil pan and the air would flow into the intake manifold. Essentially and oil catch can with a drain.

I've used the MSD box to replace a bad matchbox on a electronic distributor before. It did make a more powerful spark at the plugs, but I didn't feel any performance gain.