San Maru

Im making mine out of a peterbuilt grill, stainless steel. Its like a net of horizontal ovals. No coating needed.

Pretty cool feature, you sure you dont want to keep that?

careful, using the maxima head on a flat top l28 pistons makes 11:1 compression. Dished piston l28s will make mid 9. For pump gas, maxima n47 on a n42 bottom end or turbo bottom end.

Anyone?

Looking for a speedometer or main gauge cluster from a 79 zx. Not interested in the 85 mph Speedo from 80-83.

You can make your own from fiberglass to look however you want. Though the most respectable type are metal flares welded and integrated into the body. A little searching and you can find the metal flares. So you have to ask yourself, punk, do you feel magnetic?

I need to find 71/72 type dash harness and the engine bay harness, and bits. I think that same guy did the wiring on my 71, then his brother removed some of it at random. The rats added the final touches to the wiring. But that wasnt good enough! It turns out the horn button is fun to chew on too. The foam and fibers from the seat bottom make a cozy nest material that also doubles as a final resting place behind the passenger seat. Im sure the best is yet to come.

If you find a harness that you would rather replace, look for a tag with a part number on it. A simple harness may all be the same, but a dash harness will have the tag. Once you have that number, we can talk to suppliers. I feel the same way about wiring.

Maybe the tire failed because it was 9 years old? That sucks about the wiring. It sucks to even read about it. What would you say the moral of the story is on the wiring? I bet you can get replacement wiring harnesses on z-car sites. Im confident you can remove them and install replacements with a lot less headache. Then again, you may be surprised what you can accomplish when desperate. Ive got a wiring mess to deal with on one of mine too. I have been putting it off for years.

Jay, that is the trade off. The major point for the Webers is parts availability. Im not far away from installing 3 Dellorto DHLA 40s on my car. Parts for Mikuni are harder to find, but they are out there. Dellorto has good parts support but nothing like Weber. As a timeline goes, you have Mikuni/Solex, then Weber, then Dellorto. The Dellorto is similar to the Mikuni in that it has a large accelerator pump. Jets can be taken out of the top after removing a cover. Jet selection is more refined than Weber. Weber goes from 140 to 145, Dellorto will be like 140, 142, 146 etc. Where Weber and Mikuni jet selection is straight forward Dellorto lacks a logical numbering system for idle jets and emulsion tubes. Some high numbers are rich, others lean. Its made worse by different authorities that disagree with the sequence. I will just have to muddle through it. Anyway, I have the carbs, DHLA 40s with 30mm chokes on the manifold with linkage. Its for a mild motor that I want the low end torque for fun driving with smooth off idle transitions. I still have to get the 2.5 exhaust built, some Tee fittings for the fuel lines, and decide what to do about timing control. Dave Rebello told me how to modify the 280zx type distributor to get me 32-34 at 5,000 RPM I am after and have 15 at idle. It involves a little trial and error, testing with a timing light, but not that expensive at all. I have a couple ZX distributor spares. Once its wired up and running I can ditch the hard-to-come-by and expensive E12-80 ignition module in favor of a pertronix/HEI unit that is just as good or better yet cheaper and at all the local part stores. Ive given up on the KR180 cv axles and am searching for someone willing to remove the side gear buttons in the early r180 to use my bolt in axles. I didnt mean to sound like I was coming down hard on the Webers. There is no telling how much money and time people put in jets and tuning on a street car trying to overcome a small accelerator pump design. It must seem like an unending battle at times for some.

Anyone have a broken R180 or one they dont want? I need these buttons that the axle yoke bolts into.

74-76 interchange. Sellers often dont know what they have.

Avoid confusion and problems by getting the correct part.

Triple weber DCOE are more for a dedicated track car, probably the previous owners intention. Now you want to drive it on the street as like a dual purpose car. There is a better choice of triple carb for dual purpose car such as Mikuni due to a larger accelerator pump and their able to tune lean on idles and mains unlike the Weber. The Weber pump just masks transient leans that won't be agreeable to the Weber, so you go fat to get the same transient response of the Mikuni. That's where your fuel economy tanks. You are running fatter all the time so the transients aren't as annoying. You would be running leaner with a better suited mikuni carb that doesn't have the transient problems to running main jet because of the larger accelerator pump with the tailored shot available from that pump. As for power the mixture will remain the same. If you try to jet the Weber's for the similar mileage, then your HP tanks, and the mikunis take the winnings because they keep their edge without compromising the afr on the mains. So basicly if you aren't trailering it to the track, you are being bled dry in your wallet for gas money. If it's going to be driven to the track and back, around town, you have the worst choice as far as fuel consumption goes. There are a lot of people wanting to build dedicated track cars, and if you want to save money, sell the Weber's and get mikunis. If you got money to burn, who cares! Run fat all the time. Nice car dude. Build smart, don't follow the flock.

Someone didn't get held much as a baby.