AcesHigh

230 is really good for a new radiator. I'm going to get the aluminum one on ebay. Thank you Eagle Adam for your help!

Would it be best to get a new radiator then?

Help a brotha out! Thank you!

After doing a reverse flush, the radiator still overheats so I took it into a radiator shop. They said the core is bad, and since the radiator isn't stock and it can be re-built for $300. Would a 510 or 620 radiator bolt right in? I heard I could use a Pontiac Fiero radiator but it would require adapters and hoses. Thank you for your help!

Thanks everyone for your help with this! 2 quick questions: Why use the rust inhibiting wash primer, PPG 1791/1792? Does it neutralize the acid? I ask because from what I've read, Epoxy primer seals out the moisture.

"Get it done once, the right way" -words of wisdom. If this was a '95 civic I could care less, but in the short time I've known about these trucks, they're disappearing and I don't have it in me to put a death-sentence on it.

Hi everyone, I just bought a 1970 521 less than a month ago and after doing the mechanical work, its time for some body work. There was some surface rust on the roof so I removed the paint and found bondo; When I removed the bondo, here is what I found: From my understanding, it will need to be cut out and have a new piece welded in. The body shop nearby said there is a 2" copper seam that runs from the windshield to the edge, and they would have to cut a few inches below the seam. If I pull the windshield and headliner, he'd charge 500. I don't have 500, let alone 300.. My question is: Can I use naval jelly to remove the rust, use acetone, rust neutralizer, short-strand fiberglass filler, and epoxy primer? Would the rust neutralizer prevent the rust from spreading? Thank you for your help on this.

The wiring is a can of worms! When I installed the new starter, I wired it the way it was and after looking at the wiring diagrams, realized how screwed-up everything is, and moved the positive cable from the alternator to the correct terminal and FINALLY got14.4v! My haynes manual came in the mail today and I flushed the radiator fluid. Next step is the trans and rear-differential fluid change. Im going to look at the scheduled maintenance and see what needs to be lubricated. The work is rewarding though!

Thank you so much for the pl521 diagram! I cleaned the fuse box by soaking it in vinegar for a few hours. I thought about the ground on the alternator and tried moving it to a different location on the alternator and VOLA! no more ignition light!! damn, spending two days looking for bad connections and fuses can be a pain. Thanks guys for responding, even saying what you've experienced has helped out and I admire every datsun owner!

I found out it was from GGZILLA. I wouldnt have a problem switching to internally regulated, except that the alternator isn't charging the battery. I re-tested the system and put the answers up in the original post

Hi Everyone! I just bought a 1970 521 2 weeks ago and after driving for a week, the ignition light came on while engine was running. The battery was not holding a charge so I replaced that. I had the alternator bench tested and it failed, I bought a new one and that one passed the bench test. The light is still on. Before I explain my concerns, here are some pictures of the engine compartment: These tests I ran are from GGZILA: 1. With engine OFF, key OFF measure voltage at ALTERNATOR A terminal (or BAT terminal) and alternator case. If you get the same voltage as at the battery terminals it's good. If you get lower voltage, you have a wiring problem. GOOD! 2. Unplug the T-connector and start the engine. Put your Voltmeter on the battery terminals. Jump a wire from alternator BAT to the F terminal of the alternator. If the voltage jumps up, the alternator is working. CAUTION: Don't let the voltage go over 17volts. If the voltage doesn't change, you got a bad alternator (new ones can be bad too). GOOD! 3. If the alternator worked when jumpered, now test the wiring from the regulator. Unplug the voltage regulator and start the engine. In the harness regulator connector jump the White-with-black-stripe wire to Battery +. If the voltage jumps up, thats's good. if it doesn't, the wiring harness is bad somewhere. BAD! When I jump white with black stripe to the positive battery terminal, the motor slows down and there is no voltage change. 4. Check the harness feed wires. The White wire should read 12V when key is OFF. If not, there is a wiring problem somewhere. GOOD! 5. Between the White wire and the Black wire you should have 12V. If not you have a ground problem. GOOD! 6. With KEY ON engine OFF, check that White/blue stripe wire has 12V. BAD! Please help me, I will love you! Here is a link to the wiring diagram http://higherintelle..._Diagram[1].bmp

I just bought a 1970 521 and the windshield is broken. I have gone to all the pick-a-parts here in Los Angeles with no luck and called Pilkington and they just sold their last one. Would anyone be willing to sell me one or know where I could find one? I would be happy to contribute a finder's fee. Thanks!

Thank you Wayno for the pictures! I'll try and find that factory service manual. I'm very grateful for everyone's input and will be reading as many posts as possible.

LOL maybe at a pick-a-part.. ebay had some aftermarket ones but they don't look like orignals

Thank you, luckily theres a handle a window crank on the driver's side so once i install the seatbelts and windshield, i'll work on the passenger door. The car was originally burgundy so I was thinking about painting it the original color. What color(s) would you suggest? =)