ericbrown

I have 15x8.25 +0 with 225/45/15 on all 4 corners on my bubble flared car. Stock 510 struts with coil-overs and camber plates. They fit fine on 3 corners with plenty of room, the front right rubs the sidewall a little bit on bumps, so not sure whats up with that side. Not bad enough to not run them. You should probably be good with those.

I used one of these as a heater delete with some heater hose and hose clamps. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/fle-fpe-34139 Those rubber caps always ended up leaking for me and it looks cleaner than the old bolt in a hose method.

I bought two of the linkage rods from http://www.zccjdm.com. They were intended for OER carbs but it worked fine to replace my broken oem one. Pierce Manifolds (http://www.piercemanifolds.com) probably has something that will work as well.

I'll take a new pic later, but it's a single rod connected to the side of one carb. I have 2 of the male throttle levers for the centerpull linkage, one with the ball pin for a rod, the other for a throttle cable, but the rod one didn't work in the center due to the spacing of the carbs plus rod interference with the female side at full throttle. So I ran the throttle lever on the side. I'm going to switch to a throttle cable soon, rather than try to modify the rod throttle lever to work in the center, because it still has all the rod linkage disadvantages you mentioned, I just need to buy the cable and mount. Running it this way for now because I needed the center linkage anyway and I already had the other parts. Right now I am happy that it is not binding up at idle anymore, but it should be even better with the cable. The engine rocking at idle being transmitted back to the gas pedal is kind of annoying.

Oh yeah, I added a T3 heatshield also, you can kind of see it in that first picture.

I got this issue resolved awhile ago, but I finally had a chance to test it under the same conditions to make sure the problem was really solved. I followed Redline's instructions for checking and fixing throttle shaft binds, but I didn't really find anything wrong there. I ended up switching to a center intercouple linkage and adding an additional return spring directly to one carburetor, both from Pierce Manifolds. I then re-sync'd the carbs with a synchrometer. I've since used the car during 90 degree days around town, and I did an autocross at Auto Club Speedway last weekend in 80 degree weather. So far, no more binding issues and the carbs are working well. I did run into an issue with a stuck float, so I went ahead and checked and re-set both float levels. The one that got stuck was like 3mm off of the other one. Thanks for the help, guys.

Oh, I guess I never updated this with the resolution, sorry. The problem was that the vent tubes for the SU carbs were clogged. I had some fuel line attached to the vent tubes with a union than ran down to the ground to get any overflow away from the header. I had moved the lines around at the same time I had swapped out the fuel pump, and apparently i had pinched the line with the zip tie that was keeping it from flopping around. The car would start up and idle, but I was having an overflow issue at start up, so the car would run until the vent line was full of fuel, and then die because it wasn't able to vent anymore. Once I figured that out, the car ran normally again. Although I switched from the SU's to Weber DCOE's shortly after.

Yeah, I figured out pretty quickly when i was trying to adjust the linkage rods to be the same length that this linkage style sucks. I might upgrade to a cable linkage in the future, but I wanted to take care of any binds that might be happening in the carbs themselves first. I contacted Redline and they suggested I loosen throttle shaft nuts half a turn, and then use a small rubber mallet on the throttle shaft end to try to recenter the throttle shafts, until i get them to a position where the throttle opens/closes the easiest and smoothest. I have to take the carbs off to do that though, so i'm going to give that a shot this weekend I guess.

Hey guys, I recently bought and installed the dual weber DCOE 40 kit from redline, but I am having a problem with the throttle binding when the car is hot. I can drive the car normally from a cold start with an idle around 1000rpm, but after driving it around for awhile on a hot day, the idle will start to hang at around 1500-2000 rpm. If i pull the linkage up by hand, the idle will go back to normal. According to Redline, over-tightening the throttle shaft nuts are a big cause of problems, but i double checked mine and they are tightened to just a little bit past finger tight. When I first swapped the redline throttle lever over, i did over-tighten the nuts, which caused the throttles to bind, but I backed them off and tried again and the throttles opened and closed smoothly after that. I tried disconnecting the linkage from both carbs and manually pushed down on the throttle levers, and both carbs bind before reaching the idle stops when hot, so I don't think it is a linkage problem. If I leave the car overnight, everything works fine the next morning until it gets hot again. I'm not sure if I screwed the throttle shafts up somehow by over-tightening them originally, anyone have any ideas? Also, pics:

I bought the correct 1.6 ohm ballast resistor and put it in the car. Now the coil is a normal temperature when driving. Thanks! The old one i had in there was somewhere between .8 and 1 ohm I think. I'm still having an issue with the car sputtering and dying when driving, but I am thinking it is a carb/float issue now. I hooked up an inline fuel pressure gauge, and I am at 4 psi, even during cranking after the car dies, so I think the fuel pump is fine now. I messed with the floats a little bit and I was able to drive the car around the block without it stalling, so I am going to check them out again tomorrow.

Fuel pump is a stock mechanical type. Fuel pump and filter are the only recent changes. The coil and ballast resistor have been on the car for about 4 years. Not sure of the ohm rating. I will check when I get home. I think I just got the one NAPA said was for a 510 with an external resistor. The ballast resistor was one my dad found in his garage, no idea how old it is. The car had previously had an internally resisted coil but I wanted to get the factory inductive tach working so I needed to switch. The coil has always been on the hot side, but it seemed to work okay, but now I do live in a hotter climate, >90 degrees in the summer. I adjusted the valves about 4 months ago. I've driven maybe 200 miles or so since then.

I just changed the fuel filter at the same time as the pump, forgot to mention it in the post. I'll try inspecting the old one though. I do have a heat shield for the carbs. Not sure if I have a picture of it but it looks factory. The header is wrapped also. I do have a ballast resistor, but I have noticed the coil still gets pretty hot. Too hot to touch. Not sure how hot is normal? Distributor is a single point distributor I bought new about 10 years ago. Coil has been the same for the last 4 years. The carbs have been working decently before, but as far as I know they have never been rebuilt. They've been on the car for the past 4 years and sitting in a garage for 5 years before that. Whats the best way to clean out fuel lines? Compressed air?

Hey guys, I have a L16 powered 510 with: A87 closed chamber head stock cam flattop pistons su carbs The problem I am having is the car will start and idle, but if I try to drive it, I can only get a few houses away down the street before the car will stall out and die. When backing out of my driveway, up until the engine starts sputtering, it feels and sounds normal. If I wait a minute or two, it will start back up, but I will have to go pretty much full throttle to get it back to my driveway, if i try to use part throttle, it will just sputter and die again. It doesn't feel down on power. After waiting awhile, it will start up normally again. Some background info is that last weekend the car stalled while I driving it and would not restart. It would just crank, no sputtering or anything. I checked the fuel line to the carbs and there was no fuel when cranking. The float bowls were dry as well. I had it towed home and put in a new fuel pump. With the new fuel pump, the car starts but I have the above problem. Some more background info is that prior to this I had been having a problem when driving the car hard when it was really hot outside, like at an autocross. The coolant temp was normal, but after doing a run the idle speed would climb up to 1800-2000 rpms and stay there and the car would start misfiring at about 5500rpms. Not sure if this problem is related to the current one. Other than that it had been running fine. Anyone have any ideas? Thanks.

I have a 510, my dad has a 240z. I always thought the Z had much better steering feel than my 510. Even with a steering box brace, new tie rods, and coilovers, my 510 never felt quite as good as the Z. I can't imagine you would regret swapping the steering rack in if you can get it to work properly.

The 85 rears will probably work also, but I've never tried them. They are the same length as the 87-89 rears, but as the 87-89 rears are a tight fit in the datsun strut, the 85 rears will be a little looser.