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crewy

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    cencal
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    several
  • Interests
    Cars/trucks

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  1. How do you add pic to your tread
  2. crewy

    68 Dime

    Well I found it I forgot When I replace the rear panel I didn’t weld it it in I seemed sealed it in moved it to the trunck floor whala lights work great thanks for the reminder KoHeart
  3. Dam lights work but brake dim out and when signals are on the license plate blinks. Brake put on and the dash signal light come on as well the front signals go bright instead the brake lights wtf going lol
  4. Ground in the trunk is good as well as the engine bay still have problems with turn and brake lights
  5. crewy

    Lights

    Got a 68 dime that had no electrical issues until now. I had all lights working until I decided to pull all lights out for primering. When put back when I hit my brake lights my front turn signal are bright and brakes are dime. The inside turn signals on dash light up. Head lights are fine it just seems to be in between the running light system. I looked thru the wire harness from frear to dash can’t find any splices and still intact from original settings. Now I remember I did do an upgrade on the altimeter to an 720 upgrade with the jump wire. Would that effect the brakes and running light. I also checked all grounds battery and chassis. Any clues
  6. Never had an issue until now. So I turn on my lights and headlights are bright but tail lights are dim. I push on the brakes and my front running lights gets bright and rear go away. Signal are very dime as well. The inside turn signals on the dash come on when brake light are touched. So tried to eliminate each corner of the car nothing gets better. The Harnes is in it original strings. I did upgrade the alt but pretty sure after that I pretty sure everything was working like it should. I know someone has a Lil clue or direction
  7. Stock coil and dist. All the other wires look good from what I can tell. While idling it runs fine no arc until I Rev it up. Could it maybe a Crack cap.
  8. I have spark jumping out from the top of the coil to the top terminals when reving the motor. I think it's making the car kinda lack power when trying to go threw the gears. Is it a bad coil. I tried even changing the coil wire and it still jumps could this be do to upgrading to an internal altenator. Need some thought would love to drive this thing the right way
  9. I looked on the back of the cluster and there's a Lil gold square resister near the fuel. I have Bother cluster that's a 69 and it doesn't have that Lil gold resister like my 68. Thoughts
  10. So does that mean there's also another voltage regulator behind the dash that could be bad on the 68 cuz that is what I have a 68
  11. Was looking on the back of my cluster notice like a Lil box like a resister of somw sort. I can't load a pick of it but I have another cluster and it doesn't have one. My wiring is Virgin as hell to boot. No cut wires under dash so I'm gonna look at the local in car.
  12. Is there a way of testing the sending unit out of a tank. And should there only be one wire going to the unit which is a yellow color wire. Going to check the wire loom from guage to tank
  13. Hey Len Ill try with the key on this time lol. All if my other lights light up when I turn on ignition. So Ill try with the key on. If it registers with it on the sending unit in the tank is bad.
  14. OK Len I tried doing that and it still didn't work. That means the unit in the tank maybe bad from what your saying. Would changing the Alternator to a internal instead of a external change the difference of the gauges. There shouldn't be any difference between the 68 then the 70s guages
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