RJRACIN240

looks like you are royally screwed on that, the only thing that I can think of is that the end of the threaded portion that is not usually taken up by the threaded portion of the nut is still intact to hold it all together. My thought is that you might be able to find a castellated nut in that size and then use a cotter key for positive retention. Just my .02cents worth to bodge it back together

Sweet even this old guy with Zero patience on a computer figured this one out, just like the old days on hybidz, thank you moderators for this

That is so awesome, we have a great community of Datsun enthusiast's. It is very touching to see someone with fond memories and being able to help them re-live those memories by letting them sit in our cars or drive them. Took my 510 out to the track one time and a young guy came up to me and was all over the car, turned around and thanked me for bringing the car out and told me he thought he would never get to see a 510.

Your generosity of the intent to offer your Patrol for the weekend got me a little tear'd up! LOL

Cool looking truck and welcome back to Datsun's, couple of things, that was a lot of work for the center bearing. replaced mine and believe the bearing with center mounts was less than $40 from RockAuto. Those rims look cool, but definitely would suggest some longer studs as in the picture they look like they do not engage the lug nots all the way, not sure but the Nissan quest ones work good on a 240Z, guessing they will work good on your truck as well

I went with last generation Celica seats, fit good and allow my 236 lb 6'2" back side to drive it relatively comfortable. Would be careful about putting a harness into the truck and where you anchor the shoulder straps. Best is probably look at some Honda Civic 3 point retractable belts and use factory anchor points on the truck as much as possible

RockAuto is where I got my hardware kit

Been enjoying your adventures along the way to your first victory, this corona business is really sucking and a shame that it is ruining our racing so far this year. Hoping that you might be able to keep up with your journalistic skills and do some inside stories on the front sway bar, brake set-up, flare install, and your rack and pinion steering. Had the pleasure of joining a team to do a Champcar race at Daytona, your thread has me fired up to find another team or else try and start my own team.

A lot of people run into fitment issues when putting seats in the Z due to mounting points being narrow as well as door interfering with shoulder supports on some seats. Have Celica seats in m 620 which are pretty comfortable and should be a good match for the Z. As you say in your post price is not an issue, Corbeau and some of the other seat manufacturers have some vintage lines that look real sweet in the Z

Had a great time there and having the opportunity to hang with friends and make new friends, brought my 620 that is a tribute to the first 510 to compete in a FIA event in 1970 at Daytona where it was the first Datsun to race at the 24 hour race. 510 was built by Don Kearney at his shop in Clearwater Florida called Dons Foreign Auto, car was given to Clearwater Datsun for them to compete at Daytona.

There is a company called Pilkinton that does classic glass your farmer guy wasnt totally bsing, the other alternative is cheap chinese glass.

Where did you get the replacement grease boots, they look good

Would the NGK wires be spiral core or solid for my wagon and the Magnecor wires be spiral or solid for track 510? Been following the extra stuff that popped up on my original thread with an interest to changing the distributor on my 510 to the HEI type distributor.

Don't forget all the Plexiglas windows with the Nissan seal on them and the reinforcements built into the body, very unique car.