bmacster

Right on, thanks!

I decided to continue onwards with the truck project instead of selling it. Since the last update, I've put on about 10k miles on the beast and she is still going fairly strong. She was sadly stored outside in the winter for 3 months during a move and the cab was full of water from both sides. There are still the remaining issues from before - Fenders needs to come off to clear the water passages Front passenger CV boot ripped on an outing last week Passenger door still needs to be replaced Floor boards needs to be replaced badly Interior needs to be put back together and finished (car Windshield needs to be replaced Fuel pump and relay needs to be connected again Need to get a Weber carb Also need to get new tires ...and new steering box so I can get an alignment... Motor and transmission will eventually need to be pulled and replace the oil pan gasket and most likely the rear main seal. Can't figure out where the rest of the leak is coming from. Front and rear differentials also leaking from the seals Mostly little things that will take time due to my work schedule. Pictures and such to come! Where would be a good place to get some of the items above? Rockauto didn't have most of what I need anymore. Thanks again!

Awesome, thanks Mike! And not to mention cheaper on the pocket book too...

Howdy, I finally got around to picking up some Honda Passport/Rodeo wheels, which are 16x7. I am curious if some 265/70/16's will fit without any rubbing. Looking at the General Altimax tires, which is on sale right now for a decent steal. Thanks!

What's up everyone! Been a while since I have been on here with the new job. Been very busy and making that money finally. With the suspension mostly done, I still need to repair the hole that the PO cut into the frame to repair the broken camber nut welds but before that can happen, I need to get the steering box replaced. I tried to adjust it and it was still fairly loose, which I can only assume at this point, that the box is wore, now with the tight suspension. Any suggestions on where I can find one? I have tried rockauto, napa, autozone, etc, etc, and no one has one available. Truck is a 85 720 4x4. Thanks guys!

Forgot to include the picture of the hole...

A few updates; Got the engine put back together, runs like a champ! Can't quite get the timing pinned down 100% and still lags on power but it is MUCH better, can do 60-70mph and keep up with traffic, which is great! I did a test drive from my place in Auburn to Monroe, about 49 miles and put in 2.4 gallons, which is roughly 20/21mpg, spot on with the EPA estimate for the truck. I went up to Stevens Pass to the Merritt rest area and back the next day, 220 miles and arrived home with about a half a tank of fuel remaining. Very pleased with that considering the last trip I went from Auburn to Olympia netted me a nearly empty fuel tank, and yes, that was one way. A new item cropped up when I went to try and get the alignment done. Apparently, the prior owner several years ago, cut a hole into the frame due to the camber nut breaking. Both of them are broken some how but I am thinking the more I get into the truck, the more I have a feeling the truck was in some heavy salt water/sandy area, which caused so much of the issues I've been experiencing with the truck. I have lost count on how many broken bolts I have easily broken due to fatigue. The front suspension especially and interior of the truck especially. Whatever the PO did, it didn't do me any favors at all. So what remains? Get new floorboards welded in, and now the frame repair work that needs to be done. Replacing the rear leaf spring bushings Replacing the windshield and rear window gasket Finish the interior Find a passenger door and tailgate (if you have one in the WA area, lemme know! Brown preferably but the truck will eventually get repainted regardless) Track down some better rubber than the howlers that are on it currently (any recommendations?) Thanks! I'll add links to all of my other various threads in here this evening.

Just in case some one else comes up with this issue, you DO have to remove the axle in order to get the ball joints out. The boot will not allow clearance. Pretty easy, the passenger side took about 2 hours with some cleaning from start to finish. I would highly recommend doing the entire front suspension and steering when you do the ball joints. It makes a world of a difference! I do need to do the steering box. Mine appears to be completely worn out. Even adjusting it does not make much of a difference.

Welp, I'm stuck on yet another fun exciting project with the truck. I cannot seemingly get the lower ball joints out of the knuckle spindle due to the axle boot being in the way. Now according to the FSM and various other sources, it should be possible to remove said ball joint, without going through the pain of removing the axle, yet in various pictures, the axle IS removed. Am I missing something here? I will add that I DID NOT remove/unbolt the torsion bar because it did not seem necessary to do so since it is not connected to the ball joints like it is on the 2wd version. Thanks in advance.

If you haven't already - compression test. It almost sounds like it is more of the issue with the carb though if it is smoking. What color smoke??

Video of the truck running. http://youtu.be/elneDq6fBX8 HAVE FUN AT CANBY! Super jealous!

You know.. I saw that little mark, about 5 degrees right of what my mark is... I'll have to check that on Saturday when I work on it next.

It runs! Having an issue with finding the mark on the crank. I'll re-verify everything, one more time, and see what I come up with. Did a short test drive today down the hill and back, great power, even got it sideways by accident (oops) since I was so used to it being a slug. What a difference! No pinging going up the hill neither. Gonna get a light on it Saturday after I finish replacing half of the lines. 3 of them were collapsed from the inside, a few of them had some restrictors in the lines? I didn't put those into the new lines but I did keep them, just in case. So far, things are looking up! I'll merge/link all of these threads into my master thread later today. Thank you for all of your help!

Yeah that is exactly what it is doing. I may be one tooth off on the spindle, but it looked right at least from everything I have seen. I'll play with the dizzy and see what I can get from there.

Turned the spindle 180º and it starts, runs with a very slight miss BUT it is acting like something is binding when I attempt to start it. I am going to go get some vac hoses and a new battery. The old battery is shot and some of the hoses have some good cracks/tears in it. Still puzzled about the hard start though, it wasn't doing that when it was 180 the other direction... Still though... YAY! A touch more progress.