Tspite

I figured it out! As suspected it was indeed the allen bolts that were holding the adapter down, I removed them and put the carb back on, tightened it down and tried firing it up and it started with no problem, nice smooth idle! Man I'm pretty happy I finally figured it out. Thanks for the help guys, I did check on the egr valve and it is freely moving, so everything seems to be working fine. The carb doesn't move around a whole lot, but I probably should find something I can use for the open adapter plate holes soon.

With the old carb I could at least get it to idle, but it was shitty and had weak power. Old carb was definitely bad and it was leaking fuel from the float bowl cover. But I'll definitely check valve clearance, I'll take pictures and post them asap and I'll check on brake booster hose Mike. Thanks for the replies! And thanks for the welcome Lockleaf, Really glad there is a community for these old Datsun/Nissan's. I've loved them all, I currently own a 720 and a 240z.I had 2 hardbodies, and 2 240sxs. Eventally I would like to swap a ka into the 720. Thanks again guys and I'll update with information and pictures soon!

Hey Ratsun, my names Tommy and I have a 85 720 with a 32/36 weber conversion. Before the conversion the truck would start, but it had a problem of dieing and keeping idle, the carb was bad on it so I replaced it. With this conversion however I have unable to get it to idle at all! It will start when giving it some throttle but let off and it will just die. Things I've done: Weber 32/36 Base settings Replaced spark plugs on exhaust side with copper NGKs, new sparkplug wires. New Fuel Filter capped most vacuum. left essential vacuum to carb hooked up I am not running a regulator, after hooking up a gauge I measured 3 psi to the carb. But when I hooked up a vacuum gauge. while turning the motor over and trying to start it I got no vacuum, so I'm assuming a vacuum leak somewhere, but I've looked it over, I've gotten rid of alot of vacuum lines, kept the one that hooks up to the carb to vac advance., and a couple others that T off behind the carb. I'm just having a hard time finding the leak, if that is the problem. My worse fear is that there is a leak coming from the carb base or intake manifold gasket, I've sprayed it with starter fluid to see if that helped but nothing. I have plugged off where the inake manifold provided a vacuum source at the front, and if it is the base I assume the flat head allen bolts that you use for the weber adapter plate may not be letting it seal all the way (even though I've sprayed, I've been iffy about that, just didn't seam flush when you add the gasket and carb on top) I have no breather or hose hooked up to valve cover (left open), can a vacuum leak come from the valve cover? So any help I can get would be GREATLY appreciated. I've tried searching everywhere, I've been doing a lot of reading before and since my conversion and I just wanted to detail most I can on how things are hooked up and what I've done.

I'm sticking to the Z24 until the engine goes or just becomes unreliable. But I'd going to try and put the KA tranny from my hardbody into the 720. Thinking about starting a build thread or just share some pictures to show you guys what I did. BTW: Update on the 720 vs. Hardbody pedal box.. They look completely different. Found a pedal box from a 720 on ebay, so it may be better to buy it and use that instead.

I have a 1985 Nissan 720 ST that I've been fixing up and I was wondering if I could use my 1990 wrecked hardbody's pedal assembly for the conversion. I have a WHOLE parts truck I can use (other than the engine, which I regret selling). Both are extended cab. Basically I want to use whatever parts I can off the 90 hardbody to convert it. I want to use the 5 speed from it and put it on my Z24 720. I've searched and searched and I can't seem to find too many details on whats compatible and what's not. I know the engine and tranny will bolt up, I may need to shorten the driveshaft , but any other information would be great! But I'm mainly concerned about the pedal assembly needed.

arizonajones: Yes its the stock carb, I bought it from a previous owner a few months ago, the driveshaft was broke. Got that fixed,and now going to engine. my plan is to A. Get a compression check because I'm pretty sure the head gasket is bad too.. 2nd: check timing, carb does need a rebuild but I might just get a weber. Another thing I noticed is a buzzing sound coming from the passenger side when I have the accessory on, as I also can hear the fuel pump turn on. Is that normal? Sound's like a relay And on my carb the electric choke flap is wide open, Normal? Just wanting to get this truck squared away for daily use, I think it's worth saving in my opinion. After so I want to get onto my S30. Much appreciated for the input guys!

Can someone show me what the plates look like in the right position?? Also when I turn the car onto accessory I hear a clicking coming from the carb,,, also my throttle plates look like they are fully open..

And thisismatt thanks for the ideas! It does run rich.. it idles around 1000 though..

Thanks guys, I just had no idea what it was called when it was doing that. And flatcat 19, it's an automatic.. But I've been reading and I saw Mike say put it in drive and shut it off that way.

So may need to clean out/rebuild head?

I have a 1985 Nissan 720 king cab ST (Auto). 106 k miles, Engine has been doing some weird things after driving a bit and after its warmed up, parked and I turn the ignition off it starts sputtering, at first we thought it was a timing issue or an electrical problem, but everything else seems to be functioning. Here is where it gets really weird.. We did a test and when it started acting up we unplugged the coils with the battery hooked up, and again with the battery unplugged as well (Just did it to see what happened).. It just acts like it still wants to start is the best way I can explain it, like its wanting to keep on going, only it stalling out in the process.. It never stalls or over heats in traffic, but it does lack alot of power. Very smooth truck, we plan on doing a compression check but I want to see what you guys think or if any of you have experienced this.

It is 2wd, both trucks are 2wd, 720 auto, hardbody standard, both are extended cab.

Probably should of been a little more detailed. I have a hardbody, standard, parts truck. And rear driveshaft is damaged beyond repair, not only was it the u joint that broke, but the thing that held the joint in place. I'd upload pictures but I don't have a good cable for my phone currently. Probably just going to have to buy a new one if I can't use any of the parts off other truck

So I picked up this 720 with just 106,000 miles! Starts right up but has a broken u -joint (drive shafts cost 430ish new).. I was wondering as a alternative, swapping out the auto for a ka24e manual transmission. I have a wrecked hardbody in the back (sold the motor, I kick myself about it now) 5 spd, with whole driveline, so my questions are: 1. I have a whole parts truck, how hard would it be to swap in the clutch master cylinder, linkage, etc to the auto 720? 2. Will the drive shaft hook up to the 720s differential? 3. Will any cutting down be needed for my drive shaft or mount relocating? I've heard horror stories of doing auto to manual conversions, but I'm wondering why not if i have a whole parts truck in the back with a great transmission and driveline... Any help would be awesome guys! Been searching for my answers the past day and only found so little on this. Thanks, Tom

Bump.