onekickkawi

Thats what I am thinking but I cant find a definite answer... maybe ill post on NISMO board and let them flame away. I will double check the factory sr manual I have to see if it references any liquid gasket

This may not be the best section but the motor is going in a dime so I decided to post here. I just had the block decked and bored and am slowly assembling it. I checked the clearance on the oil pump gears that reside in the front cover and I am stuck. I dont recall seeing a gasket there, but in the back of my head something is telling me "there has to be, metal on metal like that wont seal". Has anyone rebuild an SR20 and can chime in on this? Im hesitant to post on the NISMO board cause it will probably be flame city for such a n00bish question. side note I know to prime the gears with grease before assembling.

So does anyone have a picture of how these are installed? I have some autometer gauges that I would like to install the same way. I would really like them to look like the above.. seamless and factory like.

I toyed with the MR2 Rack a little but then went back to stock. To many side projects with the car and I will never finish. One thing I was going to try was pulling the rack out and sticking it on a lathe to trim down each end .25" (I think rack was .5" longer then our pivot points, don't remember the exact number).

So how did the cross member and rack workout? thought due to the length the pivot point of the MR2 rack was longer than that of 510 lower control arms?

Hey All, I just wanted to follow up to this message and say that the problem was due to a bad ecu. I had time to attach the new ecu and the fuel pump primes like it should and then shuts off until it is in run. The car will fire up for a second now and then die. I haven't had time to play with it any more but this could be due to high fuel pressure. its at 70psi, I am going to try and turn it down to 40 tonight and see what happens.

so after doing some more testing I found out a few things. the fuel isnt going on because the Black/Pink is 12+ it is my understanding that the wire will go high or low depending on if it wants the fuel pump on or off. Second I pulled 2 coils and put a plug in them and go no spark on both. Look at the ECU I noticed some dents in the cover. When I took the cover off I notice there was an imprint of some pins from the circuit board on the inside of the cover. It got hit harder then I thought. With everything not working my current conclusion is the ECU is bad. I ordered a new one and will report back when I get that installed.

fuel light does not come on. No i never heard it run before. Just did a compression test and turned it over when I got it . It is a turbo model SR20DET S13 the ecu is a 62

Hey all, I have red and searched but I am just not getting this right so I hope someone can help shed some light. I cannot get the car to fire as it is currently wired, also the fuel pump relay never clicks on as it is set up. If I keep the current setup but run the fuel pump wire to + on the battery bypassing the box I still get nothing. I also Removed the IACV from under the intake since I hear it is not needed (so I don't have the IACV y/b wire). I am just in test mode trying to get this to run so I can move on to cleaning up the engine bay. Take a look at the pics that I labeled and let me know if you see something I am missing. I also posed pics of both side of the ECU in case I was using the wrong Diagram but I don't think I am.

I still have the Radiator MSD box and Coil VG30 Motor Mounts W/ like new isolators Make me an offer! I need this gone!

do you know what the spring rate is?

So it looks like these are the connectors that go to the chassis and these are where i pull the wires to the can am?

Is that where you pulled all your wires? from the ECU plug? and it worked?

I read that, and when i talked to him he said cutting the wires from the ecu is a common mistake, thats not where you pull your signal from

I am about to install the SR20DET engine in to my 510 but before I do I have a few question on if I can remove some items. Do I need to use the IAA (idle control valve) on the intake manifold? Do I need to use the coolant lines that go to the throttle body? I have the Can/AM box from and I understand the wiring box, however it doesn’t specify what part of the harness to pull the wires from.