philip1

a bit more up to date photo

There is a pretty active autocross group here as well. Autocross (solo2) here is different then you are used to. We run in parking lots around cones and no dirt. BTW I applied there...

Today I did just little stuff.. Installed the rally roof scoop and swapped to the Einke wheels sorry about the cell phone pic

Today I mocked up the intercooler. I think it will fit perfectly

This is a rare model it's a 1988 RX full time 4WD with selectable diff lock. specs are Engine:115hp 134lb/ft EA82t turbocharged 1.8l boxer 4 Transmission: dual range 5 speed with locking center diff front diff 3.700:1 open diff rear diff 3.700:1 viscous limited slip Suspension front: control arm, radius rod, swaybar and strut 275 lb/in springs with custon camber plates giving -1.5* camber Suspension rear: trailing arm sway bar and strut 250 lb/in springs Wheels: stock 13x5 alloy custom Enkie 13x6 alloys Tires: Street 205/60/r13 BFG comp TA legends car take offs Autocross 205/60/13 Toyo RA1 track Hoosier 225/50/r13 r35 Weight approximately 2250lb Upgrades planned: SVO intercooler with water spray, boost controller(12psi) adjustable coil over suspension, oil cooler, larger sway bars and roll cage. power after mods should be near 150 chp 200+lb/ft(I know doesn't sound like much HP but these engines are all about torque)

there is nothing at the price I am willing to afford and the minimum quality I will accept. I will wait till I can afford to bring my HL510 out. it is far better condition than anything I have found and I already own it.

till then I will have to put up with this. I traded the Toyota for a Subaru still cant find a Datsun to save anything out here.

some car had return lines (the pin hole pipe) some didn't. I think your problem lies more in the plugged jet realm. If you live near me I can rebuild your carb for you if you wish to keep a stock carb on your engine.

I'm a very immature 36 I was born in the US but I descend from English blood with the love of little Japanese cars.

I have respect for the design of honda suspension. I've built more than one honda autocross/IT cars, they do well if driven by a good driver. I've also seen real POS's being ragged on like they are built race cars. The later are the ones I hate because their owners think because they get valve float in each gear their cars are fast. :blink: :cursing: I've had Z's (3 of them) and many many 510s and I've run into very few morons in the Datsun world. I could say the same about Mazdas but I've only had two of them and I had a moron try to race me every day (in another mazda) I had to go back and read the threads by the guy you were talking about... What a tool a big wing (hey mommy I can stand up) fart can (flatulence means its faster) no suspension travel (bouncing like a ping pong ball means it handles better. right?) 400db stereo (gets all the ladies mad at me) RICER!!!!! This MORON pissed me off in three words and every "bring it" made me want to go and see his shop and shove his little short shifter in his personal fart can. OK OK enhance calm think ratsun thoughts enhance calm.......... OK I"M better he will not get me riled again

if your daughter finds she wants more performance you can swap the a15 head for an a14 head for a big jump in power. the a15 head has a big oval port at the manifold but it has a wall that cuts the port in half killing power. the a14 head has the same port but it doesn't have the wall. no other changes are needed. spring diameters are the SAME as the 240-280z so stiffer springs are cheap as long as you are willing to cut. BTW: LOVE the woodie.

2 1/4 is just about right for an L-20b any mods will make that choice sound even better. here is my wagon with 2 1/4 in header back no resonator ending with a Cherry bomb turbo and APC twin tip ">" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" width="425" height="350">

basic sync: (engine off) have someone floor the throttle then grab the linkage for the rear carb and see if it moves. If it does you will need to adjust it to where it just hits the limiter as the front carb does. close the throttle all the way then grab the front linkage and see if there is any movement before the rear. if there is movement adjust the carb mounted idle screw till they both start to open at the same time. Fuel mix: turn the large knob in (as you look down counter clockwise) all the way till it stops then back it off two turns. fire engine and adjust idle to 750rpm. once engine is warm reach in the rear carb and gently lift the slide if the engine quits turn the front big knob out (clockwise) 2 clicks and repeat test. once the engine will stay running on 2 cyl with the rear slide lifted repeat the same on the rear carb by lifting the front slide. This should get you running a Unisync is the best way but this will get you running. __________________

anything is possible with enough money and skills but.... If you want 2.4 liters why not use a KA? They have more power than a 22r and have been done a million times. If you are HELL bent to put the 22r in I say go for it but I think they are a bunch longer than the KA or L series and those fit pretty tight in there.

LD20t 77.9hp @ 4400 rpm 123Lb/FT torque @ 2400 L20b 100hp (up to 112 in some applications)@5600rpm 112 LB/FT torque @ 4000rpm Other than the intake and exhaust ports the only things the same as an L20b are the mounts an the trans bolt pattern. If you are looking to swap this into a dime get tall gears 3.36:1 and add lots more fuel along with more boost