Jump to content

donhaywood

New Members
  • Posts

    6
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Profile Information

  • Location
    Cave Creek AZ
  • Cars
    3 Bugeye Sprites 2 chevy LUV's 2 '52 GMC's
  • Interests
    sports cars, Rebuilding engines, Southwest history, Adobe structures

donhaywood's Achievements

Newbie

Newbie (1/14)

0

Reputation

  1. Hi guys...So, as an epilog to this subject {Hitachi DCH-340], I did remove the new EGR valve and I found that I failed to insert a washer-like damper that blocks some of the exhaust gas and prevents a complete 'full flow' of the gas to the carb from the egr valve. This washer goes at the base of the valve and restricts the passage of exhaust gas. The washer's center holes have a range of about 1/8 inch to 5/16 of an inch to allow the egr manufacturer to apply their product to several makes and models of engines, The EGR manufacturer included these 'washers' in my newest box but I think that there were none in the 'first' egr box that I installed in the car--'77 chevy LUV. As a result I was blasting the carb's natural venting with a heck of a lot of extra inert exhaust gas. I think that some of the gas was even managing to enter the carb barrels and may have blown upwards and created the 'dripping gas' problem and the incorrect fuel spray pattern I was having before. I just wanted to get this out to you guys in case someone needed it in the future. It sure drove me nuts for a while. Don
  2. So I did another carb 'cleanout' but only the anit-dieseling and idle screw ports--also the air vents to the bowl but got no satisfactory results. I finally gave up and ordered a re-built carb from somewhere in Florida. Hope it gets here soon.
  3. Hi guys...This is great....I did remove the Vacumn line to the power assist brake booster and did not get any change. So I guess the booster is in good condition and not leaking vacumn. My leak is in the primary venturi like yours was LEN and we THOUGHT we had sprayed it out very well but I'll try your solution maybe tomorrow. The LUV is still running but doesn't idle well and I still drive it to work. I'm thinking my problem is only in the carb and not vacumn related. DatsunMike....I'm not sure of your term 'idle cut' but I did check out my anti-dieseling selenoid and it works well. Are we talking about the same thing? Anyway, I'll blow out the air/fuel port and get back with you guys. By the way, I checked out the 340 on google and a site came up from ' www620.com' that is titled "Fuel System--service instruction work sheet" that has a good blow-up and 2 pages of how to set/adjust the fast idle adjustment, the vacumn break adjustment, etc. Might be worth copying and inserting in your Datsun repair manual. It also lists 3 different Datsun engines that use the 340 carb. Thanks for your help....Don
  4. Len....I didn't try the spray yet but will this afternoon. I'm fairly confident there are no vacumn leaks. I did notice today going to work that the power brakes don't quite feel right. I got out and checked the vacumn line to the power unit and everything looks good. But now I've decided to plug up the vacumn line in case the power unit is bad or has an internal leak. That could be a source of irratic running at low idle. Otherwise, I can feel the engine 'jerk' forward during a deceleration [like stopping at a light] and I think that is happening when the throttle is back to idle but the jet is still spitting gas and that accounts for the 'jerk'. As for the Hitachi 340, my LUV is a 1977. If you find any with a good transmission, kindly let me know. Thanks....Don
  5. Hi guys....This is crazy but I have a couple of Chevy LUV's and one has the stock engine with a DCH 340 Hitachi carb as stock on the truck. I went through some of your posts from about a year ago that dealt with the 340 and they were pretty extensive. Right now I'm having a lot of trouble with my carb not atomizing the idle fuel very well and the result is poor idling. Today I re-built the 340 and did all kinds of cleaning of the jets, orifices etc. but I'm still having the same trouble. As I look down the primary barrel I can see that the fuel is sort-of dripping/half spraying onto the top of the butterfly below. I can see beads of fuel laying on the butterfly itself too. I know the float level is good and that the vacumn lines are all hooked up correctly---according to the Haynes LUV manual and the Chevy LUV series 6 manual. I don't think I have any vacumn leaks either. I really think the problem is because the fuel spray is not well patterned or fanned well. There seems little chance of complete atomization when this happens. OK...does anyone have any ideas why the fuel is half spraying/half dripping like it is?? I allso had a Datsun210 and three Bugeye Sprites. I like these old cars/trucks and I want to keep this one running. I also think it is neat that some Datsuns and the Isuzu have the same carb. Thanks for all your help....Don
  6. Hi guys....I'm the newbie here and a litle about myself.. I'm in AZ and have 3 Bugeye sprites. One 1960 948cc complete old BE that's been sittin' around quite awhile. The second is fixed up- a 1959 w/ a 1275cc and it looks real good. The third is another 1960 that I 'm puttin' in a 1.4 l 1980 datsun and 5-speed. I'm hoping to get some good tuneup info from the group as well as a few parts etc. and ideas as I read along through the messages. Got a couple of Chevy LUV's too. One 1974 that I put a 1976 Toyota Celica 20-R and 5-speed. That one ran too well---I rattled a rod in San Diego and had to tow it home. It's sitting too. The other is a '77 that I just rebuilt the 1.8l and I use it for a work truck. I like cars----nothing too big and not too fast either. I also still have the 210 here at the house and, aside from having no engine nor trans, it's in pretty good shape. I'm in several other groups and I enjoy reading all y'all have to say. Guess that's it. Thanks, Don
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.