DATSKAOS

That time of year again....Well, me and my Family are booked at the Wigwam, not sure how many others will be there due to the date change, but we'll be poolside on Sat. eve. I'll be sure to bring some "Meat on a Stick" !!

Here you go Daniel, my spacing is still tight...the bleeder screw was hitting the clutch master so it had to be trimmed. They are 620 components (13/16), no booster as you can see...just gotta push the pedal a little harder, not a big issue. I ran all new metric line just above the trans tunnel. ^^ Here is a better pic of my steering setup, shortened the shaft and added a u joint, then mated it to a 720 TILT column. It is splined, so it still has the ability to collapse 1 in. if necessary. I don't use the tilt feature much, but when body dropping, the added joint was necessary and tilt column was available for use.

Time for an update.. I did some work on it back in July, but I never posted it. I finally replaced the head gasket/valve seals. No more smoke!! :thumbup: Runs great! Sorry no photos of that, but you all know what a L series looks like torn down. Rebuilt my master cylinder: Finally!! After years of not having a park brake I installed one. When the truck was body dropped, the firewall was sectioned right were the old brake mount was and since I am on a 620 chassis the cable setups are different..but I got it to work.. I drilled the mount out of my parts truck and tacked it in: ^^You can also see the 620 portion of this setup^^ I cut the lower end off of a 620 handle setup and bolted it to the firewall, allowing me to use the existing cable setup on the 620 chassis. The cable clevis on the handle is also 620. Works great!! I swapped out my cluster face for a rare 411 model: 411 cluster on the bottom...notice the black face w/chrome trim around arrows and gauges ^^ I wasn't a fan of the early yellow/amber turn arrows^^ I've always liked green, so I fixed that with candy green spray paint: Treated the cluster to LED's, the top photo shows green 194 bulbs with globes removed, bottom pic shows WLED-GHP5 from superbrightleds These are poor photo's, pictures make it look too bright with 'hot spots'. It glows nicely in person! And finally, I redid my bamboo panels w/MDF backing: ^^Here's a cheap trick^^ I used contact paper/drawer liner to seal my doors! Cheers! -Ray

I put drop spindles on my '82 about 20 yrs. ago(wow!). I used '85 720 hubs/brakes/rotors. They will push your track width out about 1/4-3/8in. on each side. You will also have to cut some threads off of your tie rods(about 1in.). I found this out the hard way, drove to a truck show with some major toe-out, chewed my tires up! I was able to fit 15" pathfinder steelies by trimming the ends of the strut/compression rod where it mounts to the LCA. I believe the inside lip of the rim would barely clear the LCA at full turn. I'm running 16's now. My spindles are Superior brand, not sure if they still make them, but I believe AIM industries/airbagit.com makes one. They are the same as hardbody, like Wayno points out you have to use spacers for the calipers.

Ha ha sorry man, I think you left by the time I made it up that way..a lot of 720's left Here you go.. One "Clean" 720 for ruckycharms..lol

Ignition?? Put a matchbox dizzy in...or sell it

My A87 head does NOT have the coolant passages for the intake...Is it still necessary to pipe water into the intake? I've always had it hooked up, but it seems the coolant will just sit there...and flow nowhere. I do not wish to drill into my head at this time. Just wondering if I could delete the water pipe altogether and clean things up a bit, or leave it so it can 'heat' my manifold. The truck sees minimal miles, running a Weber and L16 manifolds.

The photo of mine was taken about 10-11 yrs ago. My cab has grown since then...

Truck looks good!! Reminds me of mine when I first got it... As far as the center bearing mount, NO you do not need to cut it out. My 71 Chop Top is running a solid driveshaft.. plenty of clearance w/ 3in blocks.

Well that's good news!!

^^ Nice Truck!! ^^ We spotted you up in Lenwood/Barstow back in Feb. My wife took this pic..

Wow,You whipped that box fast!! Looking good

heretic-PM sent

Very nice build!! I mounted my battery on the passenger side frame rail in front of the rear wheel. The positive cable will already be on the same side as the starter, well for L series, not sure about FJ motor. I forgot to add, my bed floor is raised 5in. (Body Dropped) But it looks like there will be enough room under a stock floor. One more option, if you still have the carbon canister cover that attaches to the LH front wheel well you could mount a compact/motorcycle battery under there...that is if you deleted the canister...can't wait to see this completed!!