mike

Ha ha, no problem, take lots of pics. When youre looking for the sami axles, deeper gears arent necessarily a selling point. The higher numerical gears have more meat on the pinion and you can get your gear reduction through the transfer case(s).

Have you looked into samurai axles? Theyre not as strong as toyota but theyll take some abuse, theres decent aftermarket support and if youre not in a hurry you can find them on wheeling forums already built/upgraded cheaper than a stock set of yota axles that need rebuilt. Use your stock frame and start measuring... most of the time its way easier to fabricate suspension mounts on a stock frame than mess around with all the extra little stuff youd have to do with a frame swap, easier to license too. I had a hairbrained idea to build a 4x4 510 wagon... Sami axles, trans and transfer case and a 1.9 vw tdi. Leafs out back and a 3 link up front.

Damn, thought I had it. Sounded way too similar... Besides, theres only a couple places on the engine that will push that much oil out in that short of a time. After you get it cleaned up, pulling your fan/alt belt should help in diagnosis as it will keep the fan from blowing oil everywhere and make the leak easier to spot. Good luck.

Have you checked your oil pressure sending unit? Have you refilled your oil to the proper level? Are you using the correct bolts in your valve cover? Had the same (?) thing happen once on an L after swapping to an internally regulated alternator, doing a valve adjustment and scrubbing the engine bay. At idle it would drip a little, under load with max oil pressure it would spray oil everywhere, including the fan. Coincidentally it is between cylinders 2 and 3 below your intake manifold... If you don't know, its the round doohickey with one wire going to it... If your cork gasket is still pliable, clean and of uniform thickness, run it. If its not replace it...

Im pretty much out of the 620 game but I was seriously contemplating a toyota axle that would have resulted in a 5x4.5 swap. Main reason for wanting to do this was aftermarket support and available limited slip/locker options. If you dont mind keeping the 6 lug, Im pretty sure that the narrow yota minitruck 4x4 axle (pre 83) is pretty close width wise. I saw an old 620 show truck with cragar SS wheels and GM G body (80s regal/monte) hubs and disks . Apparently its not too hard, different bearings and a flat adapter for the disk caliper IIRC. I think there was an old write up on here for parts needed but it was buried in a build thread. It would be a different bolt pattern than the yota stuff though. I always thought early 14" torque thrust or E/T wheels with fat white letter tires would look awesome on a fontana style 620... I figured with some luck from the wrecking yard gods I could have LSD and disks for way the hell less than an H190 LSD and the beebani set up.

Future reference, not my idea, there were pics of it on here before the photobucket fiasco... Use a chunk of old garden hose folded in half and shove the loop end towards the tensioner/crank, just make sure its long enough to grab both ends when removing. The hose keeps the tensioner compressed and also fits snug between the chain, gives plenty of room for installing the cam gear and its easy to remove with a pair of channel locks... Waaay easier and more secure than a wood block and its cheap/free. A generic "peace sign" steering wheel puller will take that balancer pulley off... they just need a bit of a nudge sometimes. Put some tension on it with the puller and tap on/around the pulley with a brass hammer, it should slide right off. Im always leery of using just a puller to remove stuff, its too easy to break/bend important parts.

sold...

Down for a road trip? Nothing is set in stone but I may be selling my wagon to a guy in portland and trailering it down there Canby weekend. Figured Id hit up Canby and could play support rig along the way.

40 axles are plenty strong... Don't know what engine/trans/t-case you plan on running but the rear diff is offset to match the front, its not centered... unless its a really early one. Cruiser t-cases are tough as nails, and if you're running a gm/dodge/ford drivetrain that will take a 203 t-case you can make a pretty cheap doubler with an early 3 speed cruiser t-case... I forget the years (before 73) its the one with straight cut gears. If the cruiser axles are drum brakes you're going to probably end up spending more converting them to disk and figuring out your drivetrain issues than if you were to just get a set of 44s from a scout or some yota mini truck axles. Id go yota mini truck myself just because of the ease of gear swaps/setup...

Are the early ones the same as the B210 boosters or are the 210 smaller yet? FYI, The booster on my 74 and my brothers 72 look identical... It seems like there was a difference in the booster mounting between early and late 620s but I think it was just splined bolts on the adapter plate and all the dimensions were otherwise the same.

If you use the 78 dash wiring and the 78 engine bay wiring harness... yes, it will work and if done right would actually be an upgrade. Make sure to use the later fuse block from the 78 though as they are different. Also, check the chassis harness for the taillights and stuff... I think they are the same but its been a while. 74 is an oddball year for electrical. Before you install the harness, soak every connection in vinegar and when you install it make damn sure that you've got everything grounded well and have a good fusible link from the battery. If you are doing the 74 dash harness with the 78 engine harness, I have no idea and wouldn't even try... but that doesn't necessarily mean that you shouldn't ;) If you look in the FAQ under general discussion here on Ratsun you will find wiring diagrams and FSMs for most 620s so that you can see what differences there were between the years. As far as dash clusters/guages and heater controls, they are interchangeable with any year 620.

6 x 1.25 I think for the fender bolts. Go to a junkyard and rape a honda (I know the early 90s accords work for a sure) for the fender bolts and stuff. Some of them are anodized and they are better quality than most of the crap at the hardware store. Also, on the fender wells, lower rocker molding and such there are two piece plastic screw/grommet things and they are awesome for attaching interior panels and stuff. They look nice too.

…Could have dropped a valve seat as well. Adjust your valves and if that doesn't sort it out do a compression test.

Never seen or heard of those BAJA decals on the door, do you know if it came with any other options stock than a standard 620?

Napa has them, they are sold individually so you need to buy/order 4 of them. Ask the parts guy to look at the pic that pops up on the screen when you get them to make sure they are the right parts. I think rockauto.com has them as well but you will have to pay shipping.