WeirdKid

allright ive made some headway. I THINK this is all i have left, in 3 pictures to make it easy. pic 1 pic 2 pic3... ok, i plugged in the white plug onto the alternator, are those two black loops just grounds? where do they hook up to, it looks like possibly on the alternator

sooo, i just bought a '75 280z for the reasonable price of $250. story is this guy was going to do a resto, drove the car to a parking spot between some shady trees and there it sat for 4 years. the only thing he did to it was disconnect EVERY WIRE in the engine bay. so now i have a jumbled mess. all i have managed to do (electrucally) is hook up the plugs and distributor, but that was annoying because there are no markings on the cap. (does it matter which way the distributor goes on? it fits 180 degrees) ive also hooked up the MAF and the injectors, but thats about it. if anyone, ANYONE has any advice here, i woud appreciate. i do have an owners shop manual, but it hasnt helped me very much so far besides firing order. If anyone has a nice underhood picture or a wiring diagram that idiots could understand, i would be eternally grateful. I just want to fire this beast up! the same for vacuum hoses, what needs to stay and or be replaced and what can i just plug up? thank you!!! :thumbup:

thank you sir, it will be in my posession this week then. i am just really cautious with money lately now that i am 18 haha. luckily except for that bump in the hood i think the paint will buff out nicely. still open for tips and advice though. once i have it i will start a project thread

well you guys wanted pictures: here they are, picking it up for $250 this weekend after you guys answer one question! I know the rubber bushings and all the steering mounts arent that much individually, but how difficult is it to replace them on my own, a mechanic told me i probably do not have the right skills or tools to do it myself and will cost me A LOT at a garage for the work. is this true or can i tackle it myself with the help of some buddies and my dad? he has all the wires and hoses required, and a book with wiring diagrams. The headlight housing is in the hatch. basically what ive collected is that i will need a new clutch master and slave cylinder, front suspension and steering bushings, full oil and gas flush and new oil filters and fuel filters, and some fresh NGKs and wires. Also i need to not go gonzo with new parts and i need to be very cost-minded because this could get expensive quick if im not careful. If i missed anything or have any advice/warnings it would be GREATLY appreciated. for some more background here is the original thread. http://community.ratsun.net/topic/43757-help-buying-a-280z/ -Kid B)

i appreciate and understand what you've said ggzilla, i am probably one of the most cost minded person i know, basically everything in my garage has been lowballed, bargained, or otherwise found really cheaply but without compromise to quality. i am a seasoned swap-meeter. i have one final question before finalizing this sale. i have been hinted at that doing all the front bushings is a task that i will not be able to do myself, and that it will cost thousands of dollars, even though i have found all of the parts i need for the front end suspension and steering for under $200. is it stil a worthwhile buy? i would like this car and want to work on it myself

i know i know! i need about 3 paychecks (mom only lets me take out $70 per paycheck) and idk where the hell im going to put this thing (18 and living at home) we already have 5 cars, mom hates my dodge neon (that isnt that bad looking) she will hate a beat up old nissan! SUPERNOOB QUESTION: what were the torque and hp specs on the injected L28 engine?

good news! no pictures yet though, the guy really wants this thing out of his yard, got him down to $250 ;D unfortunately i discovered it needs a passenger side framerail, but i found something called a bad dog framerail or something that welds on http://baddogparts.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=2&zenid=5139f40f61046a46f1f77f97c9d04add this looks like a project i AM willing to take

hey ive been cruisin and perusing around this place (and it is awesome). a few months ago i scoped out a '76 280z in a yard next to my friends house. the guy wants $500 for it. I need some help deciding if i want this thing or not. Details: Dark blue, complete. ran like a dream when he parked it 3 years ago, he unplugged every wire and gas line and plugged them up with intention of doing a complete restore, his business took off and he no longer has time for it. Engine turns over, good compression on all cyl (tested myself). the plastic over the dash is badly cracked, and the only rust is on the passenger floorboard and driver side rocker panel (minimal) NEEDS: new front suspension bushings, clutch master cylinder, and an 18 year old's time love and care. How easy/affordable are these parts i need? is this thing worth it? ANY help, advice, comments, are greatly appreciated. thanks, this looks like a great site. -kid edit: if you guys want pics i should be able to get them this weekend

yeah i know that whole deal, and i was a little misunderstood, im only selling my daily once this is a running vehicle. And since ive gotten out of the vintage snowmobiling scene ive had way too much time on my hands. my mom has even been telling me that she misses my out working in the garage constantly. best case scenario, its worth the deal, worst case scenario, i walk away and i get a fun excuse to go out and drive around with my friend, who i will be going to college with and this is kinda a joint project between the two of us. so we will see what happens. it will be a learning experience

thats perfect! thanks!

i am bringing a mechanic with me on my outing to look at it, so i should be in pretty good shape. Ive dealt with non running cars before so this shouldn't be too bad. Being 18 and needing to pay for college next year, flying out west to pick up a car doesnt sound like the best financial decision haha. If worst comes to worst i have a 240sx that my friend is trying to get rid of as a drivetrain possibility ;)

From Spade's post What I have found works well to get a deep tone for 4 cylinder cars, is using a VERY long glasspack close to the engine, and a small muffler near the end of the car. A 24"+ long Thrush glasspack with a Borla or short(12ish inches) glasspack at the tailpipe works well. I know some of the non-baffled/louvered ricer mufflers that would normally be too loud and high pitched can be quieted and sound perfect with a long glasspack used as a resonator. i am very interested in this method, what brand of glasspack would you guys most strongly reccomend? my family has been using cherry bombs since before i was born, but i have heard a few negative comments about 'bomb's glasspacks

well thanks guys, if that is the case then i think i will just drive the 71' as is untill the 68 is ready to swap into. I'm no stranger to welding and going through fuel systems, having worked on 70s snowmobiles for the past few years. My biggest concern is basically how much it will take to get the engine running. What kind of price range am i looking at for clutch and brake cylinders, as well as the slave? I have a brake lathe and an auto shop to work in, so i think this will be a good buy. Unfortunately, as far as house rules go im going to have to sell my daily driver dodge neon if i want to have this truck, so just getting it driveable will be my main priority. gotta get to work somehow. No good pics of the '68, i will take pictures tomorrow morning when i head out there to check it out

it also does not run (says the seller) what are common problems from sitting that i can look at to guess how hard it will be to get this thing running?

Hi Ratsun people, ive lurked for awhile, searching endlessly for an old datsun. I think my deal has come. I need you guys to help me out, this is my first deal i will be doing without my dad's help, and i dont know too much about these trucks. The ad goes as follows: (1) 1968 Datsun 1600 and (1) 1971 Datsun 1600 I would like to sell them as a pair. . . But I will separate them or sell parts. The '71 is a rough truck that was bought for parts. Clean Wisconsin title. The '68 is a 99% rust free southern truck. (Body parts and frame only) Clean Kentucky title The '68 was being converted to four wheel drive. The frame has been boxed and front shock towers and spring mounts have been fabricated and installed. . there is rust on the rockers and floor of the '71, but that is okay for me for temporary purposes. how difficult would it be to take the L16 and drivetrain and swap it into the '68 chassis and body? or better to keep it in the '71? I really want these trucks and the price is awesome, what do you guys think, reccomend, warn me about?