lego126

Np. Thanks for all the help and info. The head bolts didnt move at all when i rechecked while hot. Guess i was just doing it cause i couldnt remeber torquing the cam sprocket bolt, but apparently i did. Lol

Everything back together, sounds ok runs good. But while RPMS are coming back to idle, it sounds like its got a little shudder to the engine without the EGR. BPT is off, EGR i had to put back on but ive fot everthing capped off. Egr to metal tube, metal tube bent over and welded to seal. And vac port on top EGR capped. I drove it around a bit yesterday to heat it up and brought it back hot torqued the head and adjusted valves. AS good as my Hitachi ran after rebuild ill have to find replacement for EGR tube. Lol little shudder drives me crazy.

OK erg off, just remove, and block exhaust side hole with something. What about the vac lines? Cap the ones involved with egr?

Finally got my split ball gauge for checking valve guides, everything checked out good. I was right at the limit on #1 exhaust valve but still good. Got everything back togather, only to realize my "new" EGR tube i was gonna put back in is too LONG cause its out a 4x4 KA . My old one was broke and ive had it taped up with exhaust tape for several years. So when i took the head off i just broke it off and unscrewed it. Classifieds here i come. Anyone have any exp. With the EGR block off?

So i got the distributor and it runs great, no heaitation, no stalls, great. But idling its high low high low. Its got 297K on it, 125K on the rebuild, ive had it since 35k, 1999. While in front O2 sensor mode im watching the O2 sensor switch from lean rich lean rich<low high low high>. I havent really went thru the vac lines yet as its been sitting a bit, but just looking for some causes. The low high low high isnt really that bad, Maybe low @ 700 and high at 1100, but it's annoying as snap. Thanks

Im good on all valve guides. Think i put it all back togather on my next day off. Ill update next week, thanks for help.

Checking the FSM on valve guide clearance, stem end play, stem should be moved in parallel with rocker arm. Looking at head from the front, does that mean front to back, or left to right, passenger side to drivers side? Reason im asking, my valve guides seem worn more at the tops and bottoms. Clearance in the middle is spot on, but at the ends its right at its max for recommended service.

I checked all my Ex .Valves after a very good cleaning, i'll check guides tonight with a split-ball #1 top(rocker side) .3135 mid .3135 bottom (piston) .3125 #2 top .3135 mid .313 bottom .313 #3 top .314 mid .3135 bottom .3135 #4 top .3135 mid .313 bottom .3125

Once again you've proved correct. Upon further inspection, the guides are rather worn. Several of the EX valves are pretty worn as well, with slight pitting on the piston side just below the guide if its closed all the way. Ive been reading alot today on how the guides actually work, and worn guides could have def. Caused some of my problems. (Excess PCV pressure, oil leak aroud the valves cover) Ill take to work tomorrow and check the actual wear on the valve as well as the stem end play to see if im within spec. I quite certain im out on #4 ex guide, maybe the #1 ex guide as well. Ill let you know tomorrow what the numbers are. If i ordered new valves, how much you think this would help fill the clearence? Guess it would depend on then valve stem wear.?

Intake side were all not bad, opened and closed good, VERY little play between stem and guide. Exhaust though im skeptical. Hopefully new valves will help with the play and i wont have to replace guides on ex side. But i wont really know until i get the new valves.

Well intake valves are all clear, exhaust however,2 out the 4 are warped, bent or worn. When going in and out, in certain places they wont close all the way if i spin the valve. Unfortunately this is something ive gotta order. None of the local AMarket places have em. Good thing i went with your suggestion and started replacing the seals, or id have never found em. I guess that'll me time to have head shaved while i wait on UPS.

Here is link to the video. Maybe i should reseat? Sorry for the questions but this is the first time I've done valves. https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=https://www.youtube.com/watch%3Fv%3Dn2_igU-YTbI&ved=0ahUKEwin0aDjyuDSAhWC7CYKHZucBo8QwqsBCBwwAA&usg=AFQjCNHBnbUxVi4MQNk-ZeS8zKwfoL1nGw&sig2=xA30Jj65oNc12WbuDlEuNg

Alright yesterday before dinner i cylinders 1&2 intake. Cleaned up and everything looked good. Cylinders 3&4 intake this morning, and when the valve is going up and down with the springs removed its making a slapping noise as the valves comtact the seat. Im about 80% sure this is the noise i was hearing. 1&2 didnt make this noise going up and down, only 3&4. Maybe i can post on youtube and let some of u that have done valves before listen see if this is normal.

K thanks gonna put the first one back in. I already have the seals thats why im replacing.

Yes, valve hose commected to breather.