spottedog

Haunted 1974 Datsun B210 hatch, $700.00 put into rebuilt A14, came back from machinest ran really good for months, but now has a problem. Points condensor rotor plugs coil, you name it it, its new. Changing the throtle position while driving makes the engine sputter and slow down for a few minutes while trafic backs up behind me. I live in the high sierra on a state highway where everybody goes at least 50-60 mph (I try to get this pos up to 40 mph) Replaced fuel filters, air cleaner, lots of reading from my servive manual. Bought a timing light and multimeter, going broke hear guys.

On my 1980 720 4wd I need to replace the front diff driveshaft (the short one, about 8 inches long) the new shaft is the same as the old one, identical bolt pattern same length, but I need to rotate the input flange on the front diff about a inch to line up the bolts so I can put the four bolts in. :confused: You would think a easy thing to do, but the truck is on blocks and I cant turn the diff flange the inch I need to line up the bolt pattern. Unlocking the manual lockers on both wheels does nothing, niether does nothing, removing one tire and wheel does nothing, I am missing something B) I am tired of laying under this damn truck!

I use the car to get to work (7 miles) but that stopped two weeks ago when the ignition system quit working :crying: I put in all new parts $$$$$$ (3 years ago I pulled the engine and had it refurbished by a automotive machinest (700.00) It ran great until now. The compression is 125psi to 130psi on all cylinders, it never smoked, easy startup. I am mad as hell, what I have now is a big orange paper weight, pick and pull said they would tow it away for $250.00 I would feel better if I pushed it into the river. POS !!!!! :poop: :devil:

Yes, just like a backwards clock

I have my spark plugs on a A15 running on 1-3-4-2 but it runs like shit

Have been working on1974 B210 with A14 in good shape, 550.00 spent for parts around March. Compression 120 to160 psi, no smoke but bad ignition parts (replaced), carb rebuilt with kit. Engine runs, new plugs, cables, points, coil, rotor, ect BUT :confused: engine rocks (hard) from side to side in the engine bay (new motor mounts were installed) dwell and timing are correct. Engine fires on all cylinders, but something is not right :confused:

Update - This morning a big motorhome pulled into the turnout where my B is, grey haired gentleman came over and asked if I was haveing problems. I explained that the car does not run. He asked where I live, I told him Midpines, he mentioned he had one of those 2 wheel car trailers on the back of his rv with nothing on it and why dont we put your car on his trailer trailer because he had to go through Midpines on his way home. I offered money, he refused. Off we went, my B now sits in my driveway where I have proper tools to work on it. :thumbup: Some rednecks are ok :thumbup: MANY thanks to you folks who responded to my post, now my B doesnt run but it is not on fire. Ratsun rules!

I live in Wawona on the western side of Yosemity national park, I have to bug out real soon (we are in a forest fire) I have 2 Datsuns. a 1980 4 wd 720 not running waiting for parts and my B which I did a tune up on so I can get away from this damn fire! The rangers told me to "fix it or leave it" So far I have put in new battery, points plugs condenser coil ect, BUT the damn thing does not run at all, I really want to save the B before it burns! Also it is my only way out. Obvious ignition issue, as of today I have worked on it for 4 days still no-go. Its a A14, ran great for years, I have a manual I am working from, car was never misstreated. Manual is old and second hand many pages hard to read. Does the distributer turn counter clockwise? (I have a good spark) My fan turns clockwise so does the crank pully. Manual says ignition timing is 1 3 4 2 ? I am getting gnarly mufler explosions. If someone on the board could post what I am doing wrong please help. Many thanks. Spottedog

My little 8 inch long primary driveshaft came off at the front universal joint at 60 mph and tried to come into the cab with me :crying: What is the part number? This is my daily driver, I really have to get this truck back online asap. :confused: (fixed income senior citizen)

Irwin high speed steel drill bits in business since 1885) are sold at Ace Hardware and other hardware stores for great prices considering how low they last.

harbor frieght, buy tool called a slapper it is used under the hood, worked great on my B

Ford Transit? Great truck

Months ago I was t-boned on my passenger side door, 23 inch by 8 inch dent, metal stretched, completely fubar. Put add on verious Datsun websites, after several months, nothing. This is a '80 Datsun 720 4WD that was straight before this. I was bitching about this to a friend that told me they buy doors at the place he works, he said he could get me a good price for just the door, not including labor. It turned out to be a "good junk yard door" for 500.00 PLUS shipping from Chigago! I ran him off. Another friend offered to lend me a box of auto body repair tools so I read a book and checked a lot of diy web sites and tore into it. To my surprize I got the door to good from 10 feet away, good enough for me. (The slap hammer is great) I took the window out when I started, but I cant get the window back in the door! It slid out easy as I remember, but I forgot how. Very long brain fart. Somebody tell me how to hold the dam thing to get it back in? I am so damn close.

I am tired trying to get a straight answer about putting API/GL4 oil into our Datsun manual transmissions! I live in Midpines Califoria, a very small town (population 120) no stores, no nothing just a post office. I drove 42 miles to the nearest actual city and argued with the salesmen in 7 different auto parts stores about transmission oil and "gear oil" for a Datsun 5 speed trans. I got shit like "oh, we can't find Datsun in out book" or "whats a Datsun" :yawn: Three stores said "GL4 has been phased out and is no longer available and has been replaced with "GL4/Gl5" oil. One guy said "GL4 has bad chemicals in it" One size fits all. Having enough smoke blown up my ass I went home with 2 quarts of Valvoline GL4/Gl5 oil. Went home made lunch still thinking putting this modern shit in my 720 just does not feel right. Then I rembered I have a friend back in the bay area that works for a oil refinery in Richmond so I called him, he said he would call me back. He is a "92F Petroleum Supply Specialist" He called me back and told be no, don't put that crap in your truck! He asked if I have heard of Oakhurst (another hick town 32 miles further up in the Sierra) He set it up so I could go there and buy "the real deal" oil that they had in stock. Sta-Lube SAE 85W90 Hypoid Gear Oil APL/GL4 For manual transmissions, not corrosive to non ferrous copper, bronse, bearings or bushings. Extends life of gear teeth. Since 1933 (83 years?) :thumbup: Product number SL24239 $64.62 a gallon ($35.29 with my firefighters discount) Used by CalTrans equipment, the State owned outfit that maintains all the roads in California, and the Military. Sta-Lube and CRC are the same company. Expensive, but I bet cheaper than rebuilding my trans. Napa was where he sent me, the manager said they keep it in the back room not on the shelves, just ask for the part number. He also said Harly guys com in and buy it. :confused:

I live here in Mariposa, so I have to warn you if you have to drive any distance, "Doc" is a thief and a lier. For many years he has slapped together "Z" cars and sold them locally, they were all barely driveable junk! He got his ass kicked several times that I know of. He fxxcked me for $240.00 years ago for a Datsun ring and pinion "A man has his word and his balls" "Doc" is missing both pieces. I would kill for a driver side door for my '80 720 4wd but if I went down there I think he may have a accident. :devil: