zoltans4

I run a l16 in my 620 gets huge gas mileage.. You already have it so throw it in

ya basically. it happens alot, run across these older guys and seems like something can happen so you start talking and getting things together and they become uninterested in parting with anything all of the sudden or they want way too much money...

the video didn't get the same flare because the wheels werent the same, he cut the bottom of the fender and then pulled it out slightly... you have to do that but KEEP doing it. Looking at your truck i can tell you are going too easy on the leveraging the bat against the tire to push the flare out.

i don't think a fender roll will acheive that, the front is doable, but the rear is defiently done with a bat/metal tube. you can tell by the arch it is in. a fender roller will get you an even arch. basically to acheive such a flare you need movement, weight and leverage. so when you get it out a bit to go more you now have to weigh the back down, and get the wheels out enough for the leverage you are wanting to acheive with a lip. you may want to get someone around you to help that has done it before or post on craigslist for help

bad alternator is my guess. diagnosed before and happened before.... in fact in my 240z there was some issue with the alternator or the voltage regulator and in any event the car would run fine because it was charged, then the battery would loose charge and then you loose power cause of low voltage, then it ides and clicking starter.... classic.... i believe the oil is unrelated, but it is obviously your ticking problem. fix the gasket and put proper weight oil in there btw, this is easy differential diagnosis. jump the truck put your meter at the ground and the voltage + of the alternator and look at the reading... then basically remove jumper cables and your truck will die anyway...

TTT

send me shipping on manifold and carbs to 89131. i don't need them now but i will in month, good price here.... if its all in the same box maybe i can save and see about the wheel being in the box too so go ahead and quote me on a deal with shipping on the whole lot

I'm open on condition, I can rebuild if needed or pay for the work done, etc. I can evaluate the deal as or comes. Currently I have nothing to work with, lol. I would prefer complete motor, long block, head for sure

looking for L20B and would like a 5-speed connected to it if possible, but let me know... engine shipping isn't too bad and if its in So Cal i can pick up or even ship there as well. just let me know whats available and pricing and we can figure something out... let me know, thanks in advance on any leads on this

thanks for letting me know, so now i can simply pick up a full motor or just the bottom end and be fine. i appreceate the help and responses

wow, would love that

when do you think pricing will come back? i may now want a L20B block that i can use freight shipping for.... a 5-speed connected to it would be a plus....

Ok, now that parts have come in and I am getting time for the truck I have gone and looked at a few things to see where i stand on this truck. I understand why the electronic distributor was 'added'. It seems my 79 has a L16 block and W53 head. Not surprised because i know these trucks have been around a while and parts get used when needed. So it looks like i am down some displacement (thought it should have more umph for a 2 liter), but got a good head? If i ever wanted to i could always just get the bottom end....

i havn't pulled the old dash to see if a wire is there or not. The distributor seems to be the 'matchbox' variety.

Okay, my tach looks like the bottom picture of Datzenmike's picture, so from your description it is just power/ground then the tach input single wire from the coil.