KlassicMotion

Put it on when it's new, and it should last many, many miles. As well as letting the boots slide on, it keeps moisture out.

For the plug wire boots, smear a thin coat of dielectric grease on the inside off the boot. For the cable.... being such a new vehicle, DO IT RIGHT. After a quick search, you can buy a new cable/lever for $25. That's well worth the time you would spend jimmy-rigging the old cable.

Doolers, what car are you working on? I've got some extra cables. Also, the hardware store should have some aluminum double barrel ferrels that you can crimp on to your cable. Or get a new cable from a motorcycle shop, and use the ferrels with that. Or check Youtube, there are some videos that show some pretty simple ways to re-cast the lead barrels. If it's a 510, you can buy a new cable setup on eBay.... though the one I bought was for RHD. I just ground off the rivet holding the cable on the lever, then re-attach it to your old lever with a new rivet, or bolt.

The hood embellishment is what really sets this one apart for me.

I think it's more the lack of rocker moulding that makes it look so naked.

That sounds similar to the style I used for the reverse lights. Those were substantially brighter. The tail and turn, I find to be marginally brighter. But here's the other thing, the 510s have plastic housings that are notorious for deteriorating from the heat of the standard bulbs. So the other benefit of the LED is to reduce the heat in the housing.

Everything is going well. I have no plans to change the setup. And from what I've seen on the forums and Facebook, Superbrightleds.com is the most recommended company for sourcing bulbs. My buddy didn't take my advice, and he bought led bulbs at NAPA, and I can barely see them in traffic.

You can find David Carroll on Facebook. He has a personal profile, as well as an Experimental Engineering page.

Yes, with a little bit of work. I'm thinking about putting a VG 71c bellhousing on a 71b. Here's the opposite, putting 71b bellhousing on a 71c:http://community.ratsun.net/topic/49396-fs5w71c-240sx-5spd-behind-the-l-series-l16-l18-l20b/page-1

My wife is from Viola/Conway Springs. There are a few Zs I know of out in the Manhattan, Topeka, Lawrence area.... There is definitely a strong American car scene down south there, but not so much vintage imports.

On my 510, I did away with that junk throttle rod system and swapped out to a Lokar kit. It was single handedly one of the best mods I've done to the car.

What part of Kansas? I'm from Lawrence. I'm currently out of state, but I might be moving back in the summer.

Wow... without calling anyone out, read this before buying your next oil filter. Also, posted in the comments, is a link to a more in depth comparison, with basically the same results. http://community.ratsun.net/topic/56482-oil-filter-comparison/

You can also snag the alternator and the starter too. I've stripped out 3 280zx's, and I have three in waiting. I keep all the fasteners (there are a lot of bolts and screws that cross over. Sun visor screws for instance, are difficult to find at a retailer). And I keep all the factory hose clamps. The tachometer internal mechanism is needed for upgrading the factory tach when swapping out to a VG, or for the early Z cars to upgrade to a 3 wire tach when also upgrading to an EI distributor.

I recently did a set of 240z struts for a buddy, where we dropped the AW-11 MR2 inserts in the housings, shimmed from the top (de-stroking the insert, but shortening overall length) and drilled out the stock gland nut. We cut 4 coils off the stock spring, so we still had almost 2" of preload on the spring. Surprisingly, it drives smooth. He was on a low buck budget, and we had many people scream not to cut the coils, but as long as you keep preload on the spring, it rides well. Dare I say, it rides better. It's a little stiffer than stock, but works smoothly. Now that said, being someone else's car, I did not drive it too its limits, but I never felt the car bouncing on the bump stops.... oh, and that's another thing, we cut some polly cone bump stops about in half, to allow for as much travel as possible, but still have something there.