ohmrchristopher

zero time and zero money. been putting everything into my motorcycle so that i have something to get to work with. possibly sourced a local 5spd. probably wont get into it till October :/

pending i am able to get it loose, the what? it it a lack of oil? did something bend or break? I understand what is happening now but what is the WHY?

no, I cannot get it over to 1st or 2nd, it sits in the middle. I have neutral 5th and reverse, like a sideways letter T

i had that transmission in since march, been daily driving 40km every day all kinds of diving in between. Just did a drive to Vernon loaded with dirt bikes and gear, 100km round trip. Other than a little more noise and some vibration we cruised at 100-110km/h fine. After the trip I noticed it was hard to get into 4th, had to really ram it backwards. Fast Forward to Thursday night, drove to the country bar fine, drove home fine around 1 am, parked no problem, went to go to work next day at 8am and this is what happened. No noise, no grinding, pops, hums, whirrs or the like. Too long to recall what those rods were doing when I put the front case on, but like I said been driving fine this whole time. I'll check it out tomorrow and see if I can pop something back into shape?

Update: I am stuck in 1st gear We pushed the truck on the street and I was able to drive and turn it around but I am definitely in first gear. Still, can only select 5th and REV and "neutral" is still the gear engaged. I know nothing can be done from the outside, sigh. Can someone please give me a hand with what vehicles this transmission was in? Mike said it's a FS5W71B but when I check http://www.midwesttrans.com/what_fs5w71.html there is no "B" model.

I can select 5th and reverse, but releasing the clutch cause the truck to bog and stall. Releasing the clutch in "neutral" causes the truck to move forward. (of course I parked facing the fence, so I'm pinned) 1973 620 truck 1975 L20B new rebuild w/ 3000km 1985 FS5W71B 5spd Everything I'm reading says its all internal and I best be looking for a new transmission....

so what does one do for the shifter cover? conveniently if i flip in 180 degrees it still covers the shifter hole. do you guys just redrill the bolt pattern and use it as is? I still think my oil pump/distributor timing is a tooth off. both the distributor plate and the pedestal are in the advanced spots (full clockwise on the plate, full counter-clockwise on the pedestal) I cannot retard the timing at all without the truck stalling and dying. i'm going wait till it cools of and check it again :/ other then that i think everything is good!

Hey yeah so its in and working.... i have a bad exhaust leak cause the exhaust is touching the transmission and so it rattles alot. thanks for all the help and especially those dimension charts. any time you wanna come up and hang out scooter just pm and let me know!

I now have an exhaust leak at the manifold. im going to see about having it machined flat at both ends.

See that was my initial confusion. The crank pulley was 0 degrees, the keyways were up, the valves were 10 and 2 and everything seems like TDC but I couldn't get the "bright" link to land on the #1 dot. I hand cranked it 30 times, would hit the #2 and #3 but never #1 it was always a link out. And I thought the cam gear V notch had to line up with the mark on the cam plate, not be to either side so that also didn't help. :( it's not a very difficult task to line up the links so I'm still confused on that mater but I'm glad it runs. Now I just need to tune

So that first picture was in my Haynes but it was such poor quality I couldn't make it out. There is a pin hole on the oil pump and on the drive shaft. Its stupid because it just moves anyways. I'm still not sure about the chain, I swore I got it right but I think I was actually two teeth off on the oil pump. Sigh I didn't really enjoy pulling the accessory case off. Anyways my coworker (used to work at Nissan and race 510s) said it sounded like an oil pump tooth being out. Long story short it runs!! But has a exhaust leak at the head and I still have to fill the transmission and swap out the clutch slave. And set the timing and the carb. But it runs. Finally. Whoo!

Ok it was out a bit. Um so when 1 is at TDC and its 0 degrees on the timing plate the chain marks line up and the cam sprocket is up and when you look through the cam sprocket to the cam align plate there is a indent that aligns with a notch on the cam sprocket right?? And then I align the two dots on the oil pump, stick it up through the front cover and it should be 5 deg off the bolt holes for the distributor with the small part to the front of the engine yes?? The why the fuck now is the NO 1 cylinder at the back of then engine on the distributor cap? I thought it was at the front?? It fires and runs like a turd, no power even at full throttle but oil light finally went out after 30 crank overs.

So i can only guess the chain itself is off a tooth but the timing is all together?

well as usual i am having trouble getting the new l20 to run and fire. I have 130 psi compression in all four cylinders, and i have fuel in the Weber. i popped off the valve cover to find my timing is out, i think. I could have swore i set it all perfectly but now i dont know. the crank is a TDC on the number one, the cams are 2 and 10 and the No. 1 is up, but the "bright" link is off a tooth :( Im also not sure about the oil pump/distributor drive