aintnobiscuit

Hi everyone. I don't have these pictures anymore and the post is from a long time ago. I also don't have any datsuns anymore so I don't frequent ratsun, but when i get my next one i will again. Here's a picture that should help people with all the questions re: where is the voltage regulator from a quick google search. Hope this helps!

No, unfortunately it didn't work. The gauges only read from about 25% -> 50% instead of from 0 -> 100% full but this truck has weird wiring problems I haven't had time to sort out. I moved to hawaii and didn't bring any cars... just came back so here I am. Can't wait to start working on the truck again.

$3,000 for the car w/o engine/trans/haltech. $7,500 for the whole shebang and all extra & stock parts. PM me if interested

You mean the downpipe or the turbo? Each turbo & manifold combination will be slightly different. I have an aftermarket tubular manifold so the only issue I had was making the downpipe clear the MC. To do that Erich made the downpipe curve towards the passenger side and down as it exited the turbo.

12v into the VR, 9v out of the VR, common ground. You power the gauge cluster with the 9v out. I'm doing this for my 521 in a couple hours, so I'll post pics if you want.

I don't have the time or space to work on it. That's the problem... otherwise it would be done by now and I wouldn't have taken so many shortcuts.

Hmm.... yeah, that's true. It's worth considering for sure.

Ugh... maybe I'll just put it in storage. After cleaning the garage out yesterday and looking at the car, there's not that much to be done to it. It's just about time. I may hit up a friend on Costa Mesa and drop the car off to him and say fix it, then send me the bill. Who knows.... so many things swirling around in my head it's hard to nail it all down.

Talking through an offer for a job in Hawaii. It's not that it's expensive to transport them (just a little over $1,000), it's that it's insanely expensive to have somewhere to put them. Chances are I'll end up renting an apartment with 1 parking spot. Nowhere to put the other cars. I have 5 cars right now and if we go, we'll only be taking one. We owe the most on the M3, it's automatic so my fiance can drive it, and it's got 4 seats. Most likely taking that one. I don't want to sell it but this is a dream of mine for a long time. Besides, I don't have enough time taking care of family & working to actually devote much time if any to it. Maybe the next guy can fix all the shortcuts I took with the car and build something really killer.

Gonna put another craigslist up at some point, but I'm 99% sure moving and I won't be able to take my cars with me. 510 as is w/all my tools, mig welder, all other welding equipment, 50 trim turbo, a couple other sets of injectors, extra heads & engine parts for $10k. Figured i'd just mention it here first. Also for sale: 2008 Lotus Exige Roadster S 65 Mustang (engine is out but was running) w/ Mustang II front end and 4 wheel disc brakes. It's not all together so would need to be towed. I will put it all back together stock if required. Potentially for sale: 2013 BMW M3 w/Frozen White paint (looking for someone to take over payments) Send me a PM if interested.

Good luck John!

The leak sticks? Like after heat cycling it's still there?

Thats booboo John. I had the same problem on the driver's side rear of the engine. But mine was because of the ARP bolts

So happy for you John! You're almost there man!

Damn man.... sounds like you're hitting all the same snags I hit. Are you running your fuel pumps off a relay? The issue you're talking about is because the starting circuit and running circuit are separate circuits. I ended up having a trigger wire from both hit the fuel pump relay so that it turns on in both circuits. There are other ways to handle that as there are several types of relays available. A "better" solution is to use that push button starter thingymajig that I see around here. It's supposed to alleviate that problem because it's from a car with EFI that needs power when cranking. (350z?) From a different perspective - ultimately what you want is power on in run/start and the start circuit should just be sending power to your starter to crank the motor. Also, still very excited that your car is seeing work and will be running/driving soon.