guillermofergu

That's the kinda stuff I wanted to use...but when you've already got it... :ninja: I appreciate all that! I'll keep it in mind (I have to actually inspect my tank and seats before I can say one way or another, but first impressions aren't looking good). For the past few days I haven't really been doing anything, but, with the time I had, I started pulling the turbo to prepare for the new stuff...I'm still waiting on oil/coolant lines because the warranty on the "new" turbo necessitates new ones regardless of the condition of the current ones. :poke:

well yeah, but I meant anything obviously done wrong (the welds and wiring are just ugly to look at, as far as I can tell...lot of "unnecessary" grounds, too) or that would be a major setback in the project. I guess I should've been more specific :blush: As it turns out, making the false trunk floor lid thing with a reciprocating saw with a semi worn blade took quite some time to make fit and I didn't do more than put it in the hole. My gf is good with a sander and fixed everything for me. Now I gotta mock it up with hardware then carpet it. Considering putting in some paint/rust preventative stuff before I do it. This is the stuff before it was fixed... rough work for my rough car :rofl:

I didn't do anything to the car today, but I spent like 4 hours reorganizing and cleaning the garage... I'll finally be completing the trunk thing tomorrow. Pictures will follow! PS, thanks for the heads up on parts, DF. I don't know all of what I'm missing, but I know I need some trim parts, badges, wheels, a door card, and maybe a gas tank. :o

jk jk

I haven't had time to update this in my free time, or work on the car much because of some stuff, but this sunday, I'm finishing the false floor in the trunk and replacing the ignition tumblr thing (I'll show why later) which I've already "programmed" to use the key that opens the trunk and doors. I'd post pictures but I'm at work and can't really use certain things. The replacement T25 turbo hasn't even shipped despite it having been 3 weeks almost already. I'm considering dropping it and risk rebuilding it myself. If it ships Monday, cool. Most of the feedback has been that the project looks rough. What looks rough? I may have overlooked it and am too in love with the car right now. What I see is a hastily completed and functioning swap in an almost cancerous rust free shell with many things that are waiting for me to have fun working on. Thanks for the feedback, y'all. :)

Got more torn out of the trunk area and got some stuff drawn on 1/4in ply to make a new false floor... now if only I could stop being so lazy and get to cutting...

It runs good, but like I mentioned, the turbo is dropping oil into the exhaust and causing it to have a little cloud of smoke while driving. I checked compression and the consistency of the oil (didn't feel thin or smell gassy...so that's good) ...I've got a few things to do before I actually drive it...like get seat belts that actually work well. I got a reman stock turbo coming in, so once that is in, I'm driving it to get the diff housing shortened and axles made up and what not. Then safety stuff, wheels and tires, etc. While I'm saving up for/sourcing a windshield and seals, I kinda want to rattle can paint the body a light green and paint the top matt black. Pretty much that thing below, but not so shiny green. http://www.autoguide.com/auto-news/wp-content/uploads/2010/12/HEMI-Cuda.jpg

It is pretty rough, but I'm hoping to change that.

Hi, I'm Tyler. I haven't posted in like 2+ years and didn't post much of anything before. I'm a lurker, mostly. About a week ago, I traded my 510 after removing the motor and transmission (and a rusty B210) plus some cash for a 1200. The 1200 is the car I wanted since I got into Datsuns, but I couldn't seem to find one worth putting effort in for cheap enough. I guess that changed. I've got a few questions about some things, but I'll get that sorted out later. I've worked on this thing everyday since I've got it, but haven't been able to do the things it needs to stay on the road reliably. I spent the majority of the time I've looked at it sorting things out in my head and figuring out where my priorities lie with this thing. My current plans are to make it safe, make it strong (not meaning faster), and make it fun. Right now, the shocks are all a little shot, the S10 diff is open and too wide (going to be the most expensive part because I want to convert to 4 lug back there too), the turbo has serious play and is leaking oil into the exhaust housing (thinking the CC breather system needs to be looked at also), and the tires are a little meh. So of course, what I'm actually working on is fixing the trunk to look nice. It had a 1/4in ply wall between the trunk and the rear seats (check pics below) which had massive cutouts for a sound system thing. I want to either leave it open and just redo the false floor for a skinny spare or make it more like the 510's trunk situation with the shelf right behind the rear seats. All that will be done on the cheap and re carpeted regardless. The Battery was also just sitting in the trunk, not strapped down or anything and the battery is fucking huge. I will probably switch to a sealed Miata battery and mount it somewhere right behind the seat in a battery box or marine battery box (haven't decided). Fixing this thing up will be slow, but I will be keeping it running the entire time (that's the goal) with the exception of taking the diff to get setup. Picture order screwed up when I put it on Photobucket and a few links didn't convert...woops. Is this thread in the right place? http://i1200.photobucket.com/albums/bb338/gfergu/20151210_112341_zpsstye27q0.jpg http://i1200.photobucket.com/albums/bb338/gfergu/20151210_112334_zpsrxmdiiqb.jpg

...So, does that mean the engine can't be timed without that when building it?...It doesn't have the saw blade timer plate on it currently, but I have it in a box...thanks for the heads up. Definitely makes sense. So, I just line up the zero mark to the notch in the crank pulley?

Not using any timing plate to reference anything...using cam lobe position to tell where tdc is. Hainz, the VL was supposedly set when it was rebuilt (had it rebuilt at a reputable place, but it was his first time working on a l20b - his usual is vg30/33), my firing order is correct, and my ignition is sparking. My current thinking is that I'm an idiot and can't see the cam lobes properly through the oil cap...gonna remove the valve cover today to make for sure that's what's going on. Once I do that, I'll try the last ditch stuff!

It was in the right order. I'll try retarding it in the morn.

Checked everything out...still not working. Didn't have a lot of time to look at it much. With cam lobes at 10 and 2 and being able to see the piston engravings on #1, the oil pump shaft top end was at 1130 ish ...couldn't really tell. the smaller half circle was facing forward. I put the dizzy on, put the adjustments to the middle on both, then put the cap on (rotor faced the bottom forward position on the cap, so I put #1 on it)...instead of backfiring, it shot gas up out of the carb... I don't know what to do anymore and I feel overwhelmed. I'll do more searching. Any ideas in the mean time?

ps, it backfires out of both tailpipe and carb...just depended on what I was trying at the time. I went all the way around the dizzy trying to find where to start with #1 because the conventional placement wasn't working. It's looking like it'll be with the adjustment on the oil pump shaft / dizzy. I'll let ya'll know how it goes...

if the rotor isn't pointing towards #1, do I turn the rotor itself or do I pull of the dizzy, look at and adjust the oil pump shaft?